Climb Snake Dike on Half Dome (8 pitch trad climb, 17 mi backpack roundtrip

Note:  Hikers are welcome to join us. You will need a Half Dome permit if you want to climb the cables and meet us on top.  Please clarify if you are planning on hiking or climbing. 


Everybody starts out on the waiting list so I know who is going for sure.  Once you answer the meetup questions and confirm you can go and make sure I have your contact info then I will update your rsvp to "going".  If you can't go please let me know ASAP and/or change your rsvp to "not going".  Thanks.


Requirements:

Wilderness permit for Oct 10th.  We need to send in our request for Wilderness permits on Apr 25th.  I will create a separate meetup for this with instructions.

Multipitch trad experience.   At least one person per team needs to be capable of leading yosemite 5.7 or better by the time of the trip.  For many of you this will require dedicated climbing during this spring/summer.  (note: this must be verified by trip organizer). 


Itinerary:

Pick up Wilderness permits in Yosemite Valley on Friday morning/early afternoon.

Meet at trailhead parking on Friday morning/early afternoon.  Recommend taking Friday off work.

Backpack into Little Yosemite Valley on Friday morning/early afternoon.

Camp in LYV on Friday night.

Get up very early Saturday morning and hike up to the base

Climb Snake Dike and descend the cables back to camp in LYV

Camp in LYV on Saturday night.

Hike back to the valley on Sunday


Climbing gear per team:

personal climbing gear including helmet, harness, belay device, shoes

half trad rack for each team of two = set of cams to #3, one set of nuts

alpine draws, 4ft slings, small lockers, few non-lockers

60m rope

camelbak or small pack with bladder for carrying water, etc

raincoat

headlamp w fresh batteries

topo of climb

Suncap

sunglasses

sunscreen

Lip balm

only synthetic clothes (no cotton)

light warm jacket

fleece hat

(note: you will need to carry up your hiking shoes so think about what shoes you will want to bring and make sure you have a locking carabiner for them)

walkie-talkie radio each set to channel 8-6


Backpacking gear (minimum):

backpack that can carry at least the following:

mummy bag

sleeping pad

tent (recommend sharing to cut down on weight)

your extra clothes and climbing gear.

backpacking stove (can be shared, maybe one per 2 ppl)

campstove fuel (can be shared)

water purifier (I will bring one, but would be nice to have at least one for every 3 or 4 people)

Bear canister (can be shared)


Food (easy to cook or doesn't need cooking):

bfast for 2 days

lunch for 2 days

dinners for 2 nights (recommend freeze dried foods that u just add water too)


Suggested climbing teams (to be added later )

(Note; faster teams will go first so nobody is being held up, efficiency is key to speed on this climb, 30min per pitch should be plenty)


If you need gear, let me know, I may have extra that you can borrow. Some gear can be rented from various locations in the bay area.

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  • Stan H

    Another awesome trip (#5 for me). This time we had much better weather (no lightning) and my partner didn't drop my camera from 400ft up so I was able to share some awesome shots. No snafus except for a forgotten helmet (bad boy!) and a forgotten rope (luckily I brought a couple extras. We had a pretty solid group and all that training for the past 6+months paid off. Not a trivial climb and definitely recommended for only experienced leaders despite the deceiving 5.7 rating. Shall we do it again next year?

    2 · October 14

    • Julian M.

      I'll admit to being the bad boy. I really liked the friction slab, but it definitely *was* scary on P3. I would not have led P3 without a lot more slab practice. Cookie Sheet, here I come!

      October 14

  • Avra

    Really fantastic adventure! Super fun group, physically and mentally challenging. Great way to end the summer. Thank you Stan for leading this awesome trip. Your thoughtfulness of the group and preparation was apparent. I'm still sore! But looking forward to the next adventure....

    October 14

  • Stan H

    Sorry guys, trying to upload photos, but Meetup is not cooperating. I took some outSTANding pics on this trip.

    October 13

  • Jack H.

    Runout and awesome! Great time with a great bunch of people. Long hard weekend. My calves will be sore all week. ENDLESS SLABS!

    2 · October 12

  • Kiran

    how are we setup? up on friday to start hiking.
    did we figure out follower - leader ratio

    October 6

    • Julian M.

      Kiran, I'm not ready to completely lead Snake Dike myself. I'm partnering with a more experienced leader. Let's do some easier multipitch trad climbs after this trip to get more experience!

      October 7

    • Kiran

      thanks Julian :), will catch up for more trad climbs

      October 8

  • Julian M.

    I just got the following e-mail from Yosemite Conservancy. I think this doesn't currently affect our plans (cf. the map at http://lnk.nu/nps.gov/1cjwi.pdf­ ), and I'm hoping this won't change. Here it is (excerpt):

    You are receiving this email in regards to your Yosemite Wilderness permit. Due to the Meadow Fire, some areas are closed in Yosemite National Park […]:

    * Clouds Rest, and the trail from the John Muir Trail/Half Dome junction to the Sunrise Lakes junction that passes over Clouds Rest.
    * The John Muir Trail from the Half Dome junction to Sunrise High Sierra Camp.
    * The trail from the John Muir Trail/Half Dome junction to the Echo Valley Trail junction.
    * The trail along the Merced River between Little Yosemite Valley and Echo Valley.

    […] Visit www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/con­ditions.htm for the most up to date information about trail closures […]

    Little Yosemite Valley, Half Dome, Sunrise backpackers’ campground and Merced Lake backpackers’ campground are all open.

    September 18

    • Stan H

      Thanks Julian. The fire do not affect Snake Dike.

      September 23

  • Stan H

    Haven't heard much conversation from this group. Snake Dike is only 3 months away. Who has been getting out and climbing? What have you done? Would it be beneficial to create a google doc to keep track of what you have climbed and give you some goals?
    I know what half a dozen of you have been doing and know what is already capable of leading, but what have the rest of you been doing?

    July 8

    • Stan H

      Good call Taavi. Next year.

      September 7

    • Moulik

      Adding to the climbs donr already, followed surrealistic pillar and corrugation corner.

      September 15

  • Reese R.

    I will have to unfortunately back out of this trip due to a family event that will require me to be on the east coast at this time. I've changed my rsvp so my spot is open! Have fun and be safe!

    September 15

  • Homam

    You did the right thing Stan, Thanks. Business is so slow!

    August 28

  • Stan H

    A few more people dropped off the list today so might be making room for a couple more.
    So far I know 2 of us are ready to lead the route and several of the rest have been out leading multipitch and others are still following and getting ready for their first lead . What's everybody else been doing? Anybody making progress on my recommended route list below?

    1 · July 21

    • Taavi K.

      A2 pulley in middle finger and tweaked shoulder. Both on the mend now, just have to refrain from serious bouldering for a bit and keep doing the strengthening exercises.

      July 21

    • Vincent

      Hi, I would be happy to lead and help with this climb!

      July 21

  • Stan H

    I have climbed with at least 7 ppl on the "going" list, all have followed trad and almost all have at least led their first trad pitch. We have plenty of permits, but I dont know how many will be ready to lead by October. Some on the waitlist are already competent leaders. Lets hear from those of you who have been getting out and climbing to get ready and those of you who can lead already and still would like to go. Who's been getting in some climbs? What have you been leading and where?

    2 · May 21

    • Avra

      I have been following trad and will continue to get outside as much as possible :). I tried leading once and would like to practice more on easy routes.

      May 23

    • Moulik

      I've been climbing for 6 months. Indoors and outdoors. Started getting into multi pitch trad. Lead an easy 5.5 (knapsack) at LL. Followed pop bottle and hay stack. Was in the valley this weekend and got an opportunity to follow the grack on glacier point apron. Looking to get a few more multi pitches in! Learning to gradually build my rack and start leading more multi pitch trad.

      June 30

  • Stan H

    Two people said they got permits for October 9th. I think Christine was one of them. Who was the other? These people will have to backpack in a day earlier. Maybe others can join them and maybe we can have a small group climb Snake Dike on friday instead of Saturday.

    May 27

    • Stuart

      Stan, I connected w Aaron but no word from Christine. Will chk email

      June 28

    • Stan H

      Thx Stuart.

      June 28

  • Stan H

    I am putting together a list of recommended trad climbs for new and less experienced trad climbers to follow and lead before Snake Dike. I will post the list here when I am finished.

    2 · May 27

    • Julian M.

      Awesome! Thanks, Stan. See you at Lovers Leap this weekend.

      1 · May 27

    • Stan H

      A good start:
      Knapsack Crack. LL 2or3p
      Manic Depressive LL 2p
      Sunnyside Bench. YV 3or4p

      Boone La Rue route SNP 3p
      Oak Tree flake. YV 2p
      Deception. LL 2or3p
      Swan Slab Gully. YV 3p

      The Grack. YV 3p
      Munginella. YV 2or3p
      Tollhouse Traverse 3or4p

      Northwest Books TM 3p
      Tenaya Peak. TM 14p

      Holdless Horror TM 4p
      After seven YV 6p
      After 6 YV 6p
      Cathedral Peak TM 6p

      3 · May 27

  • Aaron

    I also do not have experience leading trad, just leading sport and following trad. Let me know if you need a follower :)

    April 23

  • Kiran

    are we sending in single permit request or multiple permit requests?

    how many folks should we mention for permit request? max? min?

    April 23

    • Stan H

      From above: Wilderness permit for Oct 10th. We need to send in our request for Wilderness permits on Apr 25th. I will create a separate meetup for this with instructions.

      April 23

    • Stan H

      Detailed instructions are provided in the separate meetup

      April 23

  • Christine

    I've only followed on trad climbs and don't have my own gear. I plan on getting more experience this summer but just wanted to be honest with my experience. Most recently, I followed on a 5.8 6 pitch at Red Rocks. Before that, was 6.5 pitches on a 5.6 at Tahquitz. So I need a partner (new to Bay Area too and don't have consistent partner yet), I'll be happy to follow but hopefully I can get enough experience this summer to take turns leading the pitches.

    April 22

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