Sport Lead Climbing 101 @ Smith Rock

A great intro to this style of climbing, or a brush up for your skills if it's been awhile. This course is a full day, with all necessary gear (quick draws, slings, anchors, rope, etc) provided.

Lead climbing will take place on on nice and easy 5.5 to 5.7 climbs, and practiced using a mock-lead setup.

Required:

One year/season of top-rope climbing experience
Ability to climb 5.6 comfortably
a lunch
Transportation (carpools could possibly be arranged)
Hiking/Approach shoes
Plenty of water – 1-2 liters


Intro to Sport Lead Climbing Course Curriculum

I. Introduction to Lead Climbing

route selection
guidebook beta and climb ratings
How to use a stick clip
lead climbing communication
risk management!
how to take lead falls correctly


II. Using Quickdraws

Quickdraw types
Quickdraws and bolts
clipping the rope into draws
clipping stance
“Z” clipping
Backclipping


III. Cleaning a Route

Cleaning anchors
Using a daisy-chain/personal anchor
Discussion of cleaning overhanging routes
Rappelling with an auto-block
IV. Lead Belaying

correct stance and position of the belayer
best practices for ‘catching’ a lead fall
techniques for belaying a leader
when to tie belayer into end of rope
closing the ‘system’


V. Rope Management

how to coil the rope
flaking/stacking the rope, checking for core-shots
use of rope bag or tarp


VI. Movement Skills

Body, hand, and foot placement
learning to climb with your feet
static vs. dynamic movement
more advanced techniques for face climbing

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  • Monica

    learned a ton over the weekend & met more great people!

    October 1, 2013

  • Joel T.

    Looks like none of us (Kris, Gina and Neil) can make it for this date. I'll be gone next weekend, but can we schedule it there after?

    September 28, 2013

    • Gina B.

      PBR is that Saturday, so probably not then for me.

      October 1, 2013

  • Gina B.

    This Sunday isn't the best for me... Plus It looks like rain.. But I want to get out and do this!!

    September 26, 2013

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