I have climbed this up the ever-popular South Face route and am happy to guide those who haven't climbed this before. I want to camp at Illumination saddle this time which means an early departure on Saturday.
There will be a full moon at this time which should provide us some nice night-time illumination.
The trip, of course, depends on weather conditions and if I do not feel an ascent is in our best judgement I will cancel the trip and reschedule it for the next full moon in February. We want to look for a high pressure, dry system with little wind and clear skies. It's much more fun when you can see everything :). Wind often disappears at the 10,000 ft. level, but it only makes things way colder!
A pre-trip meeting will be scheduled a week prior when we have a good idea of weather and conditions so we can meet and go over details together. I will be paying attention to the snow conditions as well.
- Depart Portland at midnight Friday night. Arrive at Timberline Lodge by 1:30am
- Organize, gear up and begin ascent by 2am
- Climb to the Hog's Back by 6am. Should take about 3-4 hours to get to this point. Bring your skis, board, etc. to leave here for the descent. Riding down is optional and not set in stone yet. It would require skis/split board with skins unless you like carrying a lot of gear on your back!
- Make final ascent (a slower climb, about 2-3 more hours and summit around 8am.
- High fives. Pictures. Memories made.
- Ski/Ride down and get back to Timberline Lodge at about 12pm.
- You must have an ice-axe and know how to self-arrest with it.
- This is not an instructional trip, so all participants are expected to know what they're getting into and how to use their gear properly.
- Be prepared to rope up/belay and rappel for the final few hundred feet. This may be the slowest part of the climb. If the snow conditions are good, it may not be necessary to rope up.
- Good/warm climbing boots and crampons. Gear can be rented at Next Adventure for a reasonable price.
- Light-weight harness, belay/rappel device.
- Clothing for snow. If I have to explain this, this trip might not be for you. Think 15-20 degrees F.
- You must be in great hiking shape! At 10,000 feet the oxygen thins out significantly and you WILL notice it. Training hikes are a really good idea..........
- Light-weight four season tent and a sleeping bag for snow camping. These can also be rented. Rent a down sleeping back that can be compressed and fit into your pack. Lightweight is key. We could share tents as well...more body heat, less weight to carry.
- Trekking poles
- Head lamp (100 lumens)
- Good sun shades!!
- Insulation pad
- A lightweight camp stove and pot per 2 people to heat water.
- MRE style meal and breakfast
-1 liter of water (snow can be melted to make more). A metal water bottle can be heated and thrown into a sock to make a nice heating element for your sleeping bag and boots.
Group size is limited to 8 people.