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Auburn Quarry - Sport Climbing (Intermediate)

hey guys

This newly developed quarry has been around for years but because of a political backdrop with local state officials climbers have not had access to this pristine climbers paradise until September of last year when Crags, a Sacramento-based outdoor non profit partnered with Access fund to get local govt to open its gates to climbers and they did. We we get to enjoy this sports climbing haven which is nestled between the mountains of Auburn and a beautiful fork of American River.

You can ride your bike on the 30 minute approach, bring dogs, they have picnic tables along the way or people jog.

This spot offers sport leading and top roping and enough routes for a good sized crew. Auburn is about 2 hours and 2 mins away so carpools would be encouraged.

What do you need?

*Helmet, harness & shoes.
*Rope, anchor building gear (webbing, carabiners etc) - This is optional as I have most of this
*Snacks and water. We can eat a huge meal after
*Layers in case it gets cold
*If your leading or sport belaying we hope that you have experience and/or have taken a class.
*Safety: Read the safety disclaimer on Discussion board or About us section of GYCO.

This trip is subject to change depending on weather. Only RSVP if your free this day. Thank you kindly. :)

Questions? Suggestions?

Auburn Quarry Routes:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/auburn-cliffs/105733941

Getting There

· Highway 80 to Auburn.

· Exit Elm Ave (exit 119c), and stay left at the fork.

· Turn left on Elm.

· .2 miles later, left on El Dorado St (also Hwy 49).

· Turn right to stay on highway 49, head down the hill and cross the bridge towards Cool (there's a sign.)

· About a 1/4 mile later, park in the street or in the paid lot on the left (it's hard to see, but it's a VERY wide pull in)


From the parking lot (I advise bringing a bike!!!): Walk about 1 1/2 miles down the main trail (which heads more or less East out of the lot) way above the creek. You'll come to a large fort-like structure with a very wide trail heading straight up a steepish hill right of the main trail, which ends up taking you to the right of the fort. Walk another 150 yards to the FIRST fork, and go right. Follow this still wide (though often quite leaf-covered) trail trough another bend to the left, and you'll pop out at the entrance to the climbing area, with Scale Wall right in front of you.

Approach to close walls : 30 minutes (8 minutes by bike)
Approach to furthest bolted walls: 45 minutes

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  • A former member
    A former member

    Has this already happened?? :(

    February 5, 2013

    • Michael D.

      yes Brennen. it did and it was awesome :) Come next time.

      February 5, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    Hi folks, we arrived in the parking lot and are heading to the crag. We ll meet you there!

    February 2, 2013

  • Michael D.

    It appears we only have 4 ropes:
    Me, Eduardo, Julian, & Anthony (who wont show up until 11ish). And if Mae comes her guest has a rope but my gut tells me we need more)
    Anyone else have one or access to a rope? if not ill have to buy a 2nd one today (grrrr). 4 ropes means any 8 people climbing at once while 4 are left out eating, watching, taking photos. you see where this is going :) thoughts?

    February 1, 2013

    • Michael D.

      Ropes: me: 2, Ryan: 1, Julian: 2, Anthony: 1, Nicholas: 1, Eduardo: 1 amd if Mae comes for sure with our pal Miika that is another 1. Julian you may not need the shorter one & Anthony no need to buy ;)

      1 · February 1, 2013

    • Julian S.

      yay! going to leave it here then...cu manaña!

      February 1, 2013

  • Michael D.

    Hey all. Our car plans to be in parking lot between 10:15 & 10:30am. Black. Convertible cabriolet. Parking in lot is $10 bucks. Free on hwy in dirt. Call or text me as needed at[masked]-7318. Wear layers in am until it warms up. Dont forget helmets. If you dont have one we can share as needed. I love Auburn Quarry ;) woo hoo

    February 1, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    I live in sf and have space in my car

    January 31, 2013

    • A former member
      A former member

      Carla I send you a FB message :)

      February 1, 2013

    • A former member
      A former member

      Nicholas I did not get a fb message from you. Are we meeting at 15th and Market. My number is[masked]

      February 1, 2013

  • Ryan O.

    Hi everyone. I have a 60m rope that I can bring. I do not have any quick draws, but have gear for setting up a top rope. I look forward to meeting everyone.

    1 · February 1, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    Nicholas I did not get a fb request

    February 1, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    ey Michael. If you buy a rope I can buy it from you. I don't get paid til next Friday but can give you a deposit and pay you on the 8th through pay pal.

    February 1, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    Nicholas, my number is[masked]-0794. What address should I meet you at.

    February 1, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    I don't have a rope or gear either, sorry. Julian I am happy to go with you, you are east bay right? I can drive or head in your car. I am in temescal if you can think of somewhere to meet.

    January 30, 2013

    • Julian S.

      sweet! can we talk? i live next to rock ridge bart station. [masked]

      January 30, 2013

    • A former member
      A former member

      Great, we can meet at Rockridge BART at 7:30am? Maybe the side with the escalators. [masked], let's confirm tomorrow.

      January 31, 2013

  • Roger T.

    Sorry, due to space restrictions left all my climbing gear back in Ireland, other then harness shoes, reverso, and 2 beeners.

    Also I still need to sort a lift

    January 30, 2013

    • A former member
      A former member

      Hi Michael, I live in SF so I am flexible :) But obviously I would prefer somebody leaving from SF as well.

      January 31, 2013

    • Michael D.

      Nicolas, it appears Carla above has room. maybe exchange numbers? Roger, can you text me your address?

      January 31, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    No I don't have rope or quick draws. Still new to the sport.

    January 30, 2013

    • Michael D.

      you can use my extra draws on climb on our ropes Carla. does your friend?

      January 30, 2013

  • Michael D.

    Does Joel, Nicholas, Roger, Carla or Deborah have a rope and quickdraws? curious. everyone have a ride? Mae, you havent confirmed if you need a ride so if you don't I have one spot available in my car. Im so excited to get my sport climbs on. woo hoo :)

    January 30, 2013

  • anthony

    Will likely be muddy and in the shade half this time. Actually arriving at the rock 11a or later as planned is wise in my book.

    January 30, 2013

    • Michael D.

      im glad our coming back Anthony. we didn't get to talk much. cheers

      January 30, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    Can we bring a camping stove. I was thinking of hotdogs for lunch, or do you recommend just snacks?

    January 30, 2013

    • Michael D.

      Honestly, it might be cumbersome to carry on 30 minute approach. we tend to bring lunch and snacks already prepared but if you wanna carry that and cool you might check to see if Auburn Recreation allows stoves.....

      January 30, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    So I am not going to Tahoe afterwards and will be returning to sf after climbing if anyone needs a ride

    January 30, 2013

  • Michael D.

    Who needs a ride? Colton? Eduardo? Mae? I can take 3. Leaving from sf by 7:30

    January 28, 2013

    • A former member
      A former member

      Hi Michael, where are you leaving from? I would still need a ride.

      January 29, 2013

  • Michael D.

    Everybody have a ride? Also, besides Eduardo, Julian & I who has a rope and anchor building gear?

    January 29, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    I should be clearer. We're heading to northstar after climbing

    1 · January 28, 2013

    • Michael D.

      Awesome but hear it might be a little icy . Do they have snow machines?

      January 28, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    My roommate and I are driving from sf but then heading to north star to the slopes and then watching Super Bowl at northstar before returning. If anyone wants to join us we can fit 2 more.

    January 28, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    I would love to carpool also, I can drive from the east bay?? Is the plan just to meet at the climbing area at 10:15?

    January 28, 2013

    • Michael D.

      yes, meet at huge parking lot. its easy, accessible and visible :)

      January 28, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    can I bring a friens, who has more experience than me?

    January 24, 2013

    • Michael D.

      yes but you might have her sign up for liability reasons :)

      January 24, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    Hi Michael. Im a begginner in terms of rock climbing, but have rock climbed at Joshua tree and climbed a 5-9. Im taking an indoor climbing class and I have belayed before. would I be okay to go on this trip. Ive hiked Auburn quarry a few weeks ago and it did not look too bad.

    January 24, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    Do you know if there's any bouldering? I've never toproped outdoors but this looks so fun...

    January 24, 2013

    • Michael D.

      I saw someone bring a crash pad once but didnt see them boulder. It didnt appear to have bouldering. This place is pretty much for sport leading and belaying so if you havent participated in outdoor climbing is it safe to assume you dont have lead or lead belyaing experience? The only reason I ask is that Auburn Quarry isnt the best place for outdoor beginners. Im coming from a safety perspective. We will also be doing some local easy climbs at Castle rock park, and Mt Diablo in case you wnat to get your outdoor feet wet. Something to think about :)

      January 24, 2013

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