Palisade Base Camp

Date for this meetup is finalized - I am looking at July 24th entry at North Fork of Big Pine trailhead.

Since only 3 people have talked to me after the email I sent out a month ago to decide on dates, I assume they are the only one who are really interested in this trip.  As such, I only reserved 4 permits for myself and those guys. I will keep the RSVP list to 6 participants and this is how it's going to work (sorry it may not be perfect but I am trying to satisfy the greater mass):

- Yvonne, Itaru and Stuart, you guys have a week to give me $6 (paypal: j.dawg.14a at gmail.com) and that will confirm you for the trip

- If after a week I have not received payment, whoever hasn't paid will be moved to the waiting list. I will decide whether Denise or Miguel gets the slot based on RSVP order.

- Once all my permits are taken up, those who remain on the YES list can still go and reserve a permit for that date, as there are a few left on recreation.gov. I will contact the individuals when this happens and they have a week to decide whether or not to commit. This is only fair to those who are waiting.

Just a reminder, this is not a trip for beginners. You must have multi-pitch climbing experience. I do prefer at least 1 person in each roped team to have experience climbing in an alpine setting where things like route-finding, efficiency, self-rescue and knowing when to retreat are more important than climbing itself.

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Looking for people who are interested to climb some of the classic alpine routes in the Palisades.  My plan is to arrive at the trailhead before noon, and hike into Third Lake where we can set up a base camp for 3-5 days. The hike from Glacier Lodge to Third Lake is roughly 4.3 miles with 2,300ft of elevation gain. So expect a solid 4-5hr hike with a 40-50lb backpack at altitude.

Depending on the ability of the participants, there are plenty of rock (and possibly ice) routes to climb in the 5.7 to 5.10+ range. All the routes are over 1000ft so multi-pitch climbing experience is mandatory. Climbing at altitude generally feels a bit harder for the grade so be conservative with your climbing ability (Temple Crag sits at just less than 13000'). Preference would be given to those who can lead trad and have climbed at altitude before.

With 4 people, we will spit up in two roped teams. I suggest that we split up to climb different routes. This is because there will surely be other groups on the mountain and speed is a big factor of safety in the alpine. It also make for good photo opportunities to see your buddies on an adjacent arete :)

Permits for Friday entries are mostly gone for July and August, but I would be inclined to go on a Thursday.  Late-July thru August should be a ideal, and possibly best chance for ice for this low-snow year. I would keep the group size to 2 or 4 for now, but if there are lots of interest, we can probably accommodate a few more depends on permit availability.  Entry quota is 15 reserveable per day at the Big Pine North Fork trailhead. We should try to fix the date within the next week.

Routes:

Swiss Arete, Mt. Sill (5.7)

Venusian Blind, Temple Crag (5.7)

Moon Goddess Arete, Temple Crag (5.8)

Sun Ribbon Arete, Temple Crag (5.10a)

Dark Star, Temple Crag (5.10c)

Temple Crag to Sill Traverse

Sill to Thunderbolt Traverse

U-Notch Couloir (5.6, AI2, moderate snow)

V-Notch Couloir (AI2-3?)

 

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  • Naren

    Johnny are you aware of what the conditions are for U-Notch I will be in the palisades area with some friends around the 29th (sorry couldnt make the time that you had), if you have any details for both U-Notch and V-Notch please let me know

    July 15, 2013

  • Stuart

    Fa

    July 3, 2013

  • Naren

    I can't take time off from work during this time

    July 1, 2013

  • Johnny

    http://www.summitpost.org/temple-crag-june/853420

    As of last weekend June 16, 2013 the standard start to VB and MGA can be accessed without iceaxe or crampons just kicking steps into hard snow.

    June 21, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    I've got a permit for 3 for 8/16 - 8/25 for the Palisades but I'm waiting to see if my regular climbing buddies are available. Any slots open by July will be posted here under its own MU Event.

    Also, from past years, I'd say the U and V notches are pretty much done until after the next Ice Age (thanks GW!). You'd have a better time on the Dana Coulier or the North Peak Coulier (better approaches too).

    April 1, 2013

    • Johnny

      I think this year is going to be a bit of pipe dream... again

      May 3, 2013

    • A former member
      A former member

      When do U & V notches turn to solid water ice? Used to be November time frame.

      June 18, 2013

  • Noriko

    I am in! Thanks, Johnny!
    I am currently in Japan, but will send you a separate mail once I go back to US next week!

    May 29, 2013

    • Johnny

      Seems like naren wants to go, let's see if we can get a team of 6 together for this trip

      May 30, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    Hey, so I've been planning a trip up the U-notch to the North peak with a friend of mine. We have permits for the weekend of June 14th through 17th. It's coming up soon, but I was just wondering if anyone would be possibly interested in joining us? We can take one, possibly two more if anyone couldn't make it on the July trip, but still interested to summit North Palisade. Anyway I just thought I would put it out there, if anyone wanted to tag along.

    May 28, 2013

    • Johnny

      Thanks for the heads up. I would be interested to know what the condition is like on u-notch and the bergshrund (probably still snow covered). Have a great trip!

      May 28, 2013

    • A former member
      A former member

      yeah for sure! ill definitely let you know when im back!

      May 28, 2013

  • Johnny

    Sorry Miguel and Walter have to move you guys off the trip since I didn't get a confirmation.

    1 · May 28, 2013

  • Johnny

    Email sent to attendee regarding permits and confirmation, if you don't get anything please let me know, and make sure the email address in your profile is current. Thanks.

    1 · May 13, 2013

    • Naren

      Johnny, let me know if spots open up. I dont check my mails regularly so I might have not replied earlier, but I am interested

      May 28, 2013

    • Johnny

      You did get my email right? I gave Walter and Miguel a week to confirm but I haven't heard back in two weeks, so pretty much going to change their RSVP to "no", this will bump you and Noriko up - as I mentioned in the email, I only have 4 permits so you would have to get them yourself (+partner if not Noriko), but there should be enough available for that date (July 24th entry)

      May 28, 2013

  • denilou

    I've just learned my boss will be on vacation at this time so I won't be able to take time off :-(

    May 3, 2013

  • Naren

    Hi I have done Swiss Arete on Mt Sill (Did it last year) lead all the pitches. I would be interested in Temple Crag and the Traverse - Sill to thunderbolt. U Notch and V- Notch might not be in condition this early - if they are I would be happy to do that I have all the gear and have done some alpine ice before.

    April 17, 2013

    • Johnny

      I am actually interested in doing a TC to Thunderbolt traverse, 2/3 days, but don't want to do it until I am familiar with the area. Even if you don't make it to this trip we should talk :)

      May 3, 2013

  • Johnny

    Most likely no ice climbing on this trip so I am tossing that idea out the window. Will wait for the Fall and fingers crossed.

    May 3, 2013

  • Itaru

    I have some concerns with my knee conditions, will e-mail you about that.

    1 · March 29, 2013

    • Johnny

      stop moving couches around and keep your knee in one piece ;)

      1 · March 31, 2013

  • Art

    Would love to do it but depends on the dates - already booked for some weeks.

    March 27, 2013

    • Art

      I cannot find any questions. It shows me as being on waitlist, and the only way to change that is to "no".

      March 29, 2013

    • Art

      Never mind, figured it out finally

      March 29, 2013

  • Miguel

    Hi, I might be in. I'm happy to lead 5.7 trad, but I've never climbed ice. I only have sport climb, but I might get some trad gear by then.

    March 27, 2013

    • Miguel

      I'm on the waiting list now :)

      March 29, 2013

    • Miguel

      Ok, now I'm confirmed :)

      March 29, 2013

  • Weiyi Edward Z.

    i am totally making this my motivation to learn trad

    March 29, 2013

    • Johnny

      umm may not recommend this if it's your first year doing trad, but I've climbed with you so I know you can pull it off... I will try to organize a few more trad only trip in the next couple of months, that should get you up to speed for the fall season

      March 29, 2013

    • Weiyi Edward Z.

      yeah i dont think i can actually climb anything this high within this year. i will join your trad meet up thought!

      March 29, 2013

  • Yvonne

    I'm interested in spending a week or so on the east side

    March 27, 2013

    • Johnny

      Yes, and we will stop by Pratt's Crack on the way back

      March 28, 2013

    • Yvonne

      I might have to buy another #6

      March 29, 2013

  • Miguel

    Maybe?

    March 27, 2013

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