Multipitch Dome Climbing

The semi-annual trip continues for the third (?) year. Join us for hard approaches but easy climbing [masked]) on Tuolumne-like domes. This is an outing for people who are familiar with lead climbing (sport or traditional) and are comfortable leading in these easy grades. However, these are 1-5 pitch FACE climbs, meaning lots of smearing and poor to no handholds on low to medium angle face. Rock is like North Dome or Fairview. Some of the best granite but without the crowds of Yosemite. Most climbs are well protected with bolts and some gear placements. There are lots of 1-2 pitch climbs if you want to do something shorter as well. This is a large area with many options. 

This is not an ideal trip for first time leaders, but if you have lead climbed a few times already, there are sport and trad routes here for you to climb! Beta to follow for those who sign up. 

Climbing gear: Smearing shoes, comfortable harness, rope (2 ropes are required to access these routes on rappel. Climbers can pair up to get two ropes for each climbing team).


Rack- Quickdraws (up to 12 per sport pitch and anchors) and trad rack to 3 inches if you have one.


Water bottles: 2-4 liters for the day. Climbs are in the sun all day, you will need lots of water to stay comfortable.


Hat and Helmet


Comfortable climbing pack to carry lunch and water on the wall.


Long pants for bushwhacking approach

Camping: Camping at Natl Forest campground. South Shore Campground is on the reservoir ($22/ night split among the group) and has potable water and pit toilets. Dispersed camping (free) in the forest is an option. You will need a way to transport/purify water if camping in the forest. 

Bring overnight camping gear, remember your headlamp.

Food: Bring what you can, we will be cooking on stoves at a campground with potable water. Weather: Sunny and warm, hopefully good breeze. 45-90 degrees F. No campfires please. Conditions are still super dry out there. Please bring your commitment to adventure!

Beta to follow for those who sign up.

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  • Jadian

    Hey James, glad you enjoyed yourself so, me too! Not sure to which photo you refer, i had neither camera nor phone?

    September 9

  • James F

    Oh and Jadian I need that photo of me cat napping on first day.

    September 9

  • James F

    Wow. You changed the coarse of my life. Thank you.

    September 9

  • Jadian

    Hey Ya'll, Good times, thanks to all of you. I think this might be worth repeating? Tim? Hope to see you all again, keep climbing, stay strong, have fun. And thanks for the pics.

    September 5

  • Michele Riccardo E.

    Hey guy, thank you so much for the wonderful weekend! I really had a blast!! Here are some pics that I have taken, feel free to share them!

    1 · September 2

  • Tim C.

    Wonderful to have 6 people stay all three days, we got a good day in at Silver Dome, a full day at Daffy dome, and some fun climbing at the Sidewalk Wall. Good sharing of food and campsite cost and fun times around the campfire. Thanks all for 3 days of climbing.

    1 · September 2

  • Tim C.

    Looks like I will not be there until 10 am. Earlier arrivals are welcome to claim a campsite at South Shore campground on the reservoir. Sorry for the delay, looking forward to great climbing with everyone.

    August 29

    • Jadian

      Hey Tim, I will take advantage of the extra hour and not leave home until 4:30, woohoo! I thought we had reservations on campgrounds? If so, in who's name?

      August 29

  • Juliette D.

    I lead 5-10+ sport but have no trad MP experience.

    August 29

  • Stephen E.

    Can we use this comment thread to figure out carpools? I'm in SF and I can drive and seat up to 4 others (3 comfortably), or I can join somebody else who plans to drive.

    August 26

  • Tim C.

    Email sent to everyone about beta.

    August 28

  • Martin

    Ugh... My teaching tasks are overwhelming me at the moment.. Afraid I can't commit to the trip at this point. Have a blast! :-)

    August 28

  • Jadian

    Got it, thought that was the camp site. And not that i involves moi, but yes, i t is appropriate to use this thread for carpools.
    Oh, my phone is 510.612.4459. Voice only, if one wonders where Jadian ended up! Tim, are you handing out a phone# for coordination purposes?
    And thanks for the clarifications

    August 26

    • Jadian

      Yep

      August 26

    • Tim C.

      You guys can reach me at[masked] cell for text or voice.

      August 26

  • Tim C.

    Meeting place is the climbing site itself- there is a quarry and
    parking at the climbing site, look for fellow climber cars around 9 am. Getting there is up to each person. Keep the questions coming and we'll be there next weekend.

    August 25

    • Tim C.

      Campsites are at the road. Crags are 30-45 minutes from the road.

      August 26

    • Tim C.

      We will meet at the road to hike into the crags.

      August 26

  • Jadian

    Hey Tim, thanks for the info. I am not a nervous Nelly, just want to show with the right stuff. And in the right place. I do not see beta on e-mail, or in the body of this ongoing missive? But i get the idea of what to bring, so good. Quarry? I have no idea of what you speak, have never been to anywhere near where we might be going, and am lost as to where this quarry might be.
    Also, how many cars can we park at campground?
    And we wonder why when Michael D. asked why i don't sponsor climbs i laughed! Questions questions questions!!
    Oh, any reason to bring 70's vs 60's?

    August 26

    • Tim C.

      60s are the best rope choice.
      Location is on the google map as the location for this meetup.
      I emailed all participants ( whichever email is attached to your Meetup account) last Friday a link to the beta. Check your spam folders. I can try to send again later this week but am away from my computer this week, doing all this through a smartphone. I'll get you all the information somehow.

      August 26

    • Tim C.

      There are many places to park extra cars, so no need to worry about that. Site itself only allows two cars.

      August 26

  • Phil R.

    Hi Tim: Seems that there are several climbing sites. Where is the mystery quarry we will meet at?

    August 26

    • Tim C.

      Address is at the top of the meetup. Click through for a google map. And directions.

      August 26

  • James F

    I took a class on trad climbing. I have a little outdoor lead and trad experience. I've never been on multli- pitch (I want to though). Would I be right for this trip?

    August 25

    • Tim C.

      You should be good if you know about anchoring and have climbed outdoors before. The climbing is beginner friendly, just know there are 30-45 minute approaches.

      August 25

    • James F

      Sweet. I mainly climb outdoors. I love hiking.

      August 26

  • Jadian

    Am i missing something? I do not see where we are to actually meet. Also, how much gear should i lug. I love having the right gear, am willing to lug it, just not sure how much and how varied? I see rack to 3", ballnuts? Offsets? RP's? Is there a contact # for those of us coming from other directions. I have a 5 hour drive, would be good to be able to call someone.
    Thanks, looking forward to this.
    Oh, are there lines harder than 5.9? Just curious.

    August 24

    • Tim C.

      Jadian- the climbing is mostly face climbing on bolts, a simple trad rack of cams and nuts will get you up any line. Three smallest tricams are nice for some lines.
      There are lines of all grades, check your email for link to beta.

      August 25

  • Stephen E.

    I'd like to join, if that would work. I can catch a ride from SF or drive people myself. I'm an experienced sport leader up to about 5.12a, and did my first multi-pitch trad follow earlier this month. Open to anything.

    Echoing Jadian's comments from yesterday, is there a plan in place for making the trip actually happen? Are there reserved campgrounds to share, or is everyone responsible for arranging their own?

    August 25

    • Tim C.

      There will be a campsite to share at South Shore CG. Not sure of the number, we will get it when we arrive.

      August 25

  • Michele Riccardo E.

    Hey guys, nice to meet you all! Its very nice to be part of this group, thank you for letting me in.

    I would really love to join you. I have a good amount of experience leading sport, up to 12a. I have done some trad climbing, and I am eager to do more. I will be appy to follow, lead or switch ;)

    I do not have a trad rack, only some passive gear. Hovewer, I have rope and all the necessary sport gear. Unfortunately, I do not have a car, so I would need somebody to carpool with. Please, let me know if that would be possible!

    Looking forward to have a great weekend with you all!

    August 25

  • Jadian

    SO what is the approach like? Do we camp at the base, IE carry in camping gear. I am not averse to approaches, btw, done 4+ hour, 3k' elevation gains, etc. for climbs, just wondering what we are in for and what i should bring. I do not find this area on MP, just a little on ST, is there a book which covers it?
    thanks
    Jadian

    DO we want to coordinate gear, i have multiple wall racks, prefer leading on my own gear. Woo is leading, who following (i speak of trad, of course) And ropes? Thanks in advance, see ya there
    j

    August 18

    • Stuart

      Love to join but nursing an injury

      August 22

    • Stuart

      And it's not looking good for LDW either, thanks either way.

      August 22

  • Phil R.

    Love slabs! Can you share the names of some of the recommended routes we plan to visit? I enjoy doing advance research.

    August 18

  • Sergey S.

    I lead 5-10- sport but have no trad or MP experience (took an MP class). Would this be a good idea to go?

    August 18

    • Tim C.

      You would be welcome here, a good place to practice multipitch skills.

      August 22

  • Jadian

    Whatever looks fun, challenging, and cool. And i mean cool. Heat is my enemy, so we will see. Sport i just broke into 12's, maybe. Trad i have led 11, am happy in the 10's. My philosophy is stay undamaged to climb tomorrow, not old school "It's a good day to die". HA! Look forward to meeting you all, seeing new rock. And i have done Fairview, so i look forward to comparison. Yes, coming down from Mt. Lassen. Anyone know if there is online beta, route/gear descriptions? Should i bring 6's? RP's? offset cams? #13 hex! HA!

    August 20

  • Wolf K.

    Hello. I lead[masked], have rope rack but no car. So I'd be looking to rideshare, I'm near the freeways in North Oakland. Can anyone offer me a ride? I'd be looking to lead, swap, or follow. Jadian you coming from Shasta? what grade you looking to climb?

    August 20

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