Starting a discussion on training. I will post all the training sessions that have been incorporated into our training meetups but feel free to discuss anything you have picked up from books or other climbings. A couple of great resources I have found include Training for Climbing and the Self Coached Climber.
2 sets of the following:
2) 12-15 min top rope w/ downclimb (50-55% redpoint)
3) Traverse for 15 min total as follows:
3-4 min traverse + burpees until reach 5 min
3-4 min traverse + lunges until reach 5 min
3-4 min traverse + core unit reach 5 min
3 sets of the following:
2) 10-12 min top rope w/ downclimb (55-60% redpoint)
3) Fingers, Arm, and Core
Deadhang Pyramid: 4 6 8 10 8 6 4 with 5 sec rests between
@ 2 min = max pull-upss
@ 4 min = 2 min calf raises / 2 min traversing
@ 8 min = 2 min core (leg raises, plank, etc) / 2 traversing
Warm-up - 15 min (easy bouldering or traversing)
2 sets of following:
1) 12-15 min 55%-60% w Downclimb
a) 6 min traverse
b) 2 min walking lunge forward and back
c) 2 min core
d) 2 min calf raises
1) 5-5-5 (5 on, 5 off, 5 on) @70-75%
2) 3 rounds of:
a)10 sec on 10 sec off deadhangs (x3)
b) Every 20 secs - max pullups (x6)
c) 2 min core
1) 10-12 min at 50-55%
a) 2 min pushups and 2 min rest
b)2 min core/2 min rest
c) 2 min 1 leg good mornings/2 min rest
2 sets of:
1) 5 min on, 3 off, 3 on, 2 off, 2 on @ 75%
2) 3 min on, 2 off:
c) Calf raises
2) Find a route that is 85-90% of your redpoint ability Climb for 2min, rest for 1 min. Repeat for 5 sets.
3) strength routine
a. pyramid straight arm hang from a hold 2-4-6-8-10-8-6-4-2 (hang for X sec, rest for X seconds, repeat for pyramid), rest 3 min
b. 3 minutes of core work (crunches, situps, bicycle, the hundred, etc), rest 2 min
c. 2 minutes of pushups rest 3 min
5) Find a route that is 70-85% of your redpoint ability. Climb for 5 min, rest for 5 min, climb for 5 min.
6) same as #3
Two rounds of:
- At 90% of your redpoint level - climb 2 min, rest 1 min, climb 3 min, rest 90 sec, climb 3 min, rest 90 sec, climb 2 min
- 90 seconds of exercise then 90 seconds rest for: pullups, core, pushups, calf raises
1) boulder - 1 prob every 3 minutes with increasing difficulty x 5
2) Pullups and lockoffs 2-3 minutes each, with rest, total of 15 min
A) campus board, pump rocks, etc
B) frenchies or ladders
3) One arm traversing, 30 seconds per hand, 2 min rest, 5 reps
1) @ 90% of redpoint, 2min climb, 1 min rest, 5 reps
2) 2 min on, 1 min rest for each of the following:
c) 1 leg good mornings
d) calf raises
Edited by Dan on Aug 10, 2014 3:27 PM
Thanks for posting this Mandy, now I have it mapped out. Sweet!
|A former member||
I own an indoor gym. I used to put up big slopers and dead hang them until failure. Rest then dead hang again. I learned this from Andrew G. and saw that it helped him a lot so I tried it. Builds up crimp and palm strength without injury. Probably will start using it again.
There are some really good workouts in the Feb 2013 Climbing magazine if anyone is interested. One example for projecting / power (posting this one since it may be applicable to training for bouldering which may be useful for now):
Project route for 15 min then try to perform 50 pushups and 20 pull ups in 5 min. Stop at 5 min no matter if you finish. Repeat x 6. Probably best done bouldering.
If I quit being lazy, I want to start this regimen... http://www.rockandice... "building a better climber" Starting a training meetup has been discussed but...
Yes to all of the above! I'm getting back into the Tu/Th routine starting tonight and am looking forward to working hard! Thanks for the tip about the dead hangs from slopers, and thanks, Mandy, for posting the workouts!
Keeping It Fresh in the Gym
Climbing Workouts That Feel More like Games
By: Tom Stoltz
Image Via: http://quicklol.com/p...
Warm up, work your project, burnout, and go home. Sound familiar? Over time gym climbing can become repetitive and just plain boring. Getting stuck in the same routine can lead to frustrating plateaus, and likely isn’t going to push your outside climbing either. So, I challenge you to try these climbing workouts (“games”) to push your pump and have some fun in the gym. Obviously, these workouts can be adjusted to your liking, or you can create your own. The important thing is that you are having fun and pushing your climbing. Go forth and crush!
Chutes and Ladders (1 up 2 down)
- This is a fun game that will even let you work your project some. That is if you want to work that bastard of a project. Right?
- This workout can be performed while bouldering or on top rope, but usually works best for bouldering because of more problems at each grade.
- Start at the easiest grade and climb one problem at that grade
- If you send the problem, then move to the next grade
- If you fall on the first problem, then your terrible, go home. (Kidding!)
- When you fall, move down a grade and climb 2 problems at that level. Then move back up a grade
- Basically, every time you complete a problem you move up a grade and every time you fall you climb 2 problems at the grade below where you fell
- When you complete a route/problem at the hardest grade you can climb, then try your project
- Do not repeat any problems unless you have already completed every problem at that grade
- When you are sufficiently pumped or cannot complete problems 2 grades below your projected grade, then the game is over…..you win. Everybody wins!
Around the World Endurance Circuits
- This is my personal favorite and works best while bouldering because it involves quickly changing routes and exercises.
- Pick a grade that you know you should be able to climb every problem in the gym at, but you will likely have to take multiple attempts to complete some of the problems. Ideally there should also be at least 15 problems at this grade. If there are not enough problems, then combine a few grades
- Start at the first problem of that grade
- Climb in order of next on the wall a problem of that grade every 2 minutes (meaning every 2 minutes regardless of how much time you spent on the last problem you are starting a problem).
- When/if you fall, complete a circuit exercise at the next 2 minute mark and then get back on the same problem 2 minutes later.
- If you feel too pumped to get back on the same problem, then you can elect to complete another circuit exercise at the 2 minute mark, until you feel you can get back on the problem
- Only give up on a problem if you fail at least 4 times.
- If you get through every route at the grade, you win. Pick a harder grade next time, You Sandbagger!
Chutes and Ladders Circuits
- Essentially the same as Chutes and Ladders with a few extra caveats
- Every 2 minutes you should start a new route or perform a circuit exercise
- When you fall instead of climbing 2 problem at a grade down, you complete a circuit exercise and a problem a grade down before moving back up
Build a Bear
- This game can be played while bouldering, on top rope, or lead if you like to deck.
- Pick a section of wall with a lot of different colored tape on it (grade doesn’t matter).
- Climb the wall using any color tape. What’s the catch?
- Every move must be to a different color than the last move. For example, if your last move was to a lime green taped hold, your next move must not be to a lime green taped hold. Still sound easy? Well here is another rule; you can never have your hands on the same color or your feet on the same color. Feet on red and green with hands on red and green would be ok, but both hands on red would be a fail.
- If you make it to the top, then eliminate a color (preferable that of the easiest route) and climb it again.
- If you can send the section of wall using only one color and moves involving feet and hands on the wall, you win at life…..Congrats! Now climb a harder section of wall.
Circuit exercise examples/ideas
- 20 or more push-ups (any variation), 40 bicycle crunches, 40 or more body weight squats, 12 shoulder push-ups, 1 minute plank, 1 minute wall squat, 20 each leg single leg toe touches, or whatever tickles you fancy
- Mix up the circuit exercises to give yourself a total body workout (chest, abs, legs, and shoulders). Your back will be worked from the climbing, of course…...dummy.