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This Meetup is cancelled

Mountaineering: Mt Washington - Huntington Ravine Classic (Long Day) Sunday

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  • Mt. Washington (Pinkham Notch Visitor Center)

    Rt 16, Pinkhams, NH (map)

    44.261830 -71.245675

  • Mountaineering: Mt Washington - Climb Huntington Ravine Classic (Long Day)

    Skill Level: Indeterminate - Advanced

    Mount Washington: is the wildest peak east of the Mississippi River. It is also one of most popular hiking, backcountry skiing, alpine climbing and ice climbing destinations in New England. Affectionately known as "the Rock Pile," it is located in northern New Hampshire just west of NH SR-16 between North Conway (to the south) and Gorham. It is also known as the "Home of the World's Worst Weather" and the world record holder for the fastest wind speed ever measured: 231 mph on April 12, 1934 (See the "Mountain Conditions" section for more info on weather).















    This will be the 2nd of many, I hope into the spring....!


    Group Size:

    Limited by the number of lead climbers whom sign up. As we have lead climbers I can add next the experienced belayer's and then newbie followers as they signed up. First to RSVP is the first followers to be climbing.

    Not filling out the questions get you deleted from the all the lists. Attending or waiting. You can re-signup and then fill out the questions but you lose your early RSVP.


    Link to Teams List:



    How to find Me?

    I will be camped over in the Hermit lake shelters or Harvard Cabin Area. Work out the finer details the days just before this Meetup. If your coming up from the parking lot that morning you will want to make sure you arrive by the meeting time of 9am at the trail junction of Tuckermans Ravine Trail and Huntingtons Ravine trail (Fire Road).


    The plan:

    The plan is to climb up into Huntington’s Ravine, Via 1 of the 8 classics.

    ( Climbs Listed Left to Right )

    South Gully -- Grade 1

    O'dell's Gully -- Grade 2-3

    Pinnacle Gully -- Grade 3

    Central Gully -- Grade 1

    Diagonal Gully -- Grade 2

    Yale Gully -- Grade 2-3

    Damnation Gully -- Grade 3

    North Gully -- Grade 3

    Teams can pick any of the following routes and/Or other listed in guide books.


    Option #1 Route Description: Pinnacle Gully (WI 3 III)

    The approach to the floor of the ravine requires a 2.6 mile hike that climbs 2100' up a wide and generally packed trail. The reason it is wide and packed out is because the US Forest Service Snow Rangers drive a snowcat and snowmobiles up it to do their avalanche forecasts. The descent can be up to 3.5 miles long with a 3400' elevation loss. This, combined with the possibility of a lower snow slope and the climb makes for a long day on the mountain. Given that winter days are short, fitness and efficiency are important qualities a climbing party should posses before climbing in Huntington.

    At the base of the climb in mid winter requires a 400' snow climb on 30 to 35 degree snow slopes. The snow slope increases to about 45 degrees; pickets and a shaft-plunged axe work well for the first belay, or you can climb up until you hit ice. The first pitch has sustained ice of about 60 degrees if you follow the line of least difficulty, but depending on conditions you can make this significantly steeper by heading either left or right.

    After the steep ice the angle decreases and there is a fixed belay on the left side, under the rock overhang. From there you climb over some snow and then 2 more bulges of ice, but these are smaller and easier than the first. The gully tops out on a snow slope that leads towards the Alpine Garden; most parties follow that up to the Garden and then descend either the Lions Head Trail or the Escape Hatch.

    If weather permitting? We can hike the last bit to the summit and return back to the cars knowing we had a full weekend of fun.

    Waiver:  Read !!!

    Be Warned!

    Mountaineering, Skiing – Alpine or Back Country, Rock & Ice Climbing by its very nature is an extremely hazardous activity.

    Falling off any climbing route or bouldering challenge or other activity, even hiking to a destination may result in injury or death. Weather, Trail conditions a slip on a trail or falling objects like rocks, climbing gear or tree’s from above, can all incur injuries’ and/or death.

    Any information on this Meetup group page is for the basic understanding of what could be encountered. We do not guaranty any type of accuracy on this information. Seek your own additional resources of information.  You as an active member! Perhaps, lacking any of the following, professional training, good judgment, moral caricature or a conscious. We or anyone on any Meetup-Mountaineers cannot be held responsible in anyway.

    When arriving at any Meetup you should always use your own best judgment. Weather or not the conditions “ both physical or mental” are in your best interests. The judgment, Is this a place you should or shouldn't be?

    If you get hurt…. Don’t even think about blaming someone else. You made all the decisions and where warned.  Dragging yourself out of bed and driving to the meeting location. Too walk up to the activity and participate is on you. We are not guides or leaders in any event held. Just the organizers of finding a meeting location that people with similar interests can meet and socialize.

    It’s always your right to back out and live the good life with all the rest of the human race eating cheese doodles and Twinkie’s in front of the television for the day….

    That said have fun! Play safely! And take the responsibility of your own actions.

    The Organizers…


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  • Jay B.

    OK, folks its 4pm Just saw the weekend outlook. Due too the Considerable-High rating of Avalanche danger in Huntington's Ravine for tomorrow and slightly less on Sunday. I am going to cancel this meetup.. Sad I know.. Just a little to high in ratings for a group to attack the climbing routes. I also talking to my friend in the Forest Service it was the rain we got gave us a unbondable surface so the 8" of snow that got swept of the summit cone from the winds out of the NW hit smack in the middle of the ravines. So north or south ravine conditions are all about the same... I will post this same trip in 2 weeks hope you can Re-RSVP...

    March 15, 2013

  • Jay B.

    Hi Folks.. I know you all thinking about the conditions.. I have herd you and was prepared to give a ( Go/No-Go) determination here at noon.. I know some are getting nervous and I don't wish to risk or want to place anyone in the group in potential harms way seeing we are a group of this size covering the whole ravine. I know its likely anyone has the Beacons Probes and shovels to travel safe etc...
    But, Hang tight. I have calls out and I will do more research and will come up with other options and a rain date in a couple hours at the most.. Hang in their....

    March 15, 2013

  • Roger I.

    With avalanche advisory hovering around considerable all week in both ravines at what point do you pull the plug? I'm looking at 3.5 hour ride to the PNVC. Or would you go up lions head and just summit washington as an alternative?

    March 15, 2013

  • Roger I.

    As it looks like I'm on the follower short list maybe I'll just head up smugglers notch and climb there instead. I've been on the sharp end for grade 2-3 a few times in the past few weeks don't know if those gullies are a good place for a first year leader

    March 14, 2013

    • Jay B.

      I have you as you requested as a follower or belayer switching leads is possible also we have enough leaders now so no one is off this meetup at this point. FYI but if you choose to go elsewhere just up date your RSVP

      March 14, 2013

    • Roger I.

      Great, I've never been up in Huntington during winter so didn't want to offer to lead without seeing what it looks like first. Do we have enough ropes?

      March 14, 2013

  • Jay B.

    Just finished Updating the climbing teams. Check it out with the link...

    Sunday we are light one leader now.. So if you know someone? hate to have to make cuts or it might be a hiking day for 1 or 2..

    March 14, 2013

  • Andrew

    Back to the salt mines, I mean work. Hopefully you have something next weekend. Thanks again.

    March 14, 2013

  • Jay B.

    411,,, Seeing I am staying overnight. I will be dragging a sled up to our camp spot which is either Harvard Cabin or Hermit Lake.. The hope is to be able to slide all the way down on the Shelburn trail.. Did it once long time ago.. save's the feet of the long walk out and a added final rush with a helmet on...:-)

    March 8, 2013


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