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Rock Climbing: Pawtuckaway State Park

Rock Climbing:  Pawtuckaway State Park

Trad and Top-rope Options....

Description:

Located in Nottingham, NH, Pawtuckaway State Park is the southernmost of the major climbing destinations in the state. Hundreds of glacial erratic boulders line the forests while the assorted and scattered crags stay mostly out of sight. The three small mountains of Pawtuckaway are the remains of a ring dike formed by an extinct volcano and the rock is a smooth but fully textured granite of a different quality than the climbing elsewhere in this so-called Granite State. While the park is known primarily for its bouldering, which happens to be some of the best in the country, crack climbs of exceptional quality abound on the numerous crags alongside slabs and difficult face climbs. Between boulder problems and routes there are nearly a thousand climbs to be enjoyed, put up over the years by the likes of Dave Graham, Tim Kemple, Rio Rose, Brett Meyers, John Sierois, Dean Potter, Charlie Bentley, and dedicated crews from UNH. In short, there’s plenty here for everyone. Grab a pad or a rack and come hone your skills before you unleash them on the world, or for those of you who aren't local this is a great place to take a road trip to. As with all New Hampshire crags, it is best in Autumn but fun always.

Trad and Top Roping: The Lower Slabs, Upper Cliff, Devils Den and more offer great trad climbing, although you wouldn't know it on a busy day 'cause all you can see are top ropes. The Upper Cliff and Lower Slabs are very popular for summer camps and family top roping outings, so venture out to one of the other crags if things are taken. A 5-10 minute walk will get you to either the Lower Cliff, the Dome, or the Ridgeline/Small Walls. The trad climbing here is short but sweet, 50 feet on average, though Devil's Den offers longer pitches as well as a few multipitch climbs (and fewer crowds). Crack Master Dean Potter learned much of his crack climbing skill jamming the perfect cracks of P-way and so could you.

Sport Climbing: There are a few bolted sport routes in Devil's Den, the Microwave Area, and at the Yellow Dog Wall with difficulties ranging from 5.6 to 5.13. The age and quality of the bolts are questionable, some are brand new, some are decades old, so be wary.

The Team's:

As always the size of the meetup is based on how many people the area can handle & the number of lead climbers who RSVP for the Meetup....!

For each lead climber we need one experienced belayer and then one newbie climber/Follower.

Its always the understanding that the "Newbie/Follower" as at a minimum has climbed indoors and has knowledge of the climbing knots and all the gear required & that the Belayer is willing to show that Newbie the how too clean gear and climb past challenges on the route.  Both the leader and the Belayer assist the Newbie/Follower and keep a eye out for their lack of knowledge.

Sign up...  First to RSVP is the first to fill a opening based on experience needed.


The Team's Link:

Defined teams for this location are not needed. All climbs are only one pitch off ground and if needed overflow non-lead climbers can be set up with top ropes.

 


Gear:

 

On top of Bug Spray!!! You must have a helmet to climb.

Bring Rope if you have one....

1 Lead Climber w/Full rock rack or materials to set up top-rope.

Belayer and Follower should at a minimum have the basics. If you don't have any of the basic's it could mean you will not be able to join in on this Meetup.

Look to the gear list listed at our group page.

Click  "More"

Click  "Files"

Click  "Gear List - Rock Climbing (Follower)"

 

Getting There:

 

We will be planning on meeting at (Dunkin Donuts) listed above and then drive the additional 15 minutes into the park... First timers will get lost!!!!! There is no sign's for the road nor being able to seeing the cliffs from the road.

 

From I-93:
Take Route 101 east to Exit 5 and follow signs to Pawtuckaway State Park.

From I-95:
Take Route 101 west to Exit 5 and follow signs to Pawtuckaway State Park.

Concord, NH (1 hour, 15 minutes)
Boston, MA (1 ½ hours)
Providence, RI (2 ½ hours)
Hartford, CT (3 hours)
New York, NY (5 hours)
Portland, ME (1 hr, 40 minutes)
Burlington, VT (3 1/2 hours)
(thanks to http://www.nhparks.state.nh.us/ParksPages/Pawtuckaway/PawtckDrct.html)

 

The Classics at Lower Cliff: many other areas to choose from...

Flake Route5.4

Corner 5.8

The Dike 5.8

The Roof 5.7

The Slab's Overhang 5.7

Seaver's Folly 5.6

Pete's Tree 5.4

 

Links:

http://www.nhstateparks.org/explore/state-parks/pawtuckaway-state-park.aspx

 

Waiver:  Read !!!

Be Warned!

Mountaineering, Skiing – Alpine or Back Country, Rock & Ice Climbing by its very nature is an extremely hazardous activity.

Falling off any part of a climbing route or bouldering challenge or other associated activity's, hiking or backpacking to a destination could result in injury or death. Weather, it be Trail conditions, or be it a slip on a trail or falling objects like rocks, climbing gear or tree’s from above, or avalanche can all incur injuries’ and/or death. You are always attending at your own risk!

Any information on this Meetup group page is for the basic understanding of what could be encountered. We do not guaranty any type of accuracy on this information. You should always, seek your own additional resources of information for any Meetup.  You as an active member! Perhaps? lacking any of the following, experienced knowledge, professional training, good judgment, moral caricature or a conscious. We or anyone on any Meetup-Mountaineers cannot be held responsible in anyway.

When arriving at any Meetup you should always use your own best judgment. Weather or not the conditions “ both physical or mental” are in your best interests. The judgment, Is this a place you should or shouldn’t be?

If you get hurt! Don’t even think about blaming someone else. You made all the decisions and where warned.  Stepping out of bed and driving to the meeting location. Too walk up to the activity and participate is on you. We are not guides or leaders in any event held. Just the organizers of finding a meeting location that people with similar interests can meet and socialize and participate in doing activities in which we have chosen an interest in performing..

It’s always your right to back out at any time and live the good life at home in front of the television for the day….

That said have fun! Play safely! And take the responsibility of your own actions.

The Organizers…

 

 


Join or login to comment.

  • Justin R.

    Couldn't have asked for a better day given the sloppy condition of the crags. Met and bonded with some great people, and learned a great deal!

    May 12, 2013

  • christiana

    Wet. But fun as always

    May 12, 2013

  • Jay B.

    What a funky time. Love the enthusiasm and everyone's take on how to get up the damp or wet route. Some with sneakers, Or Mtn Boots and then even switching over to trying rock shoes. Lots of jamming, torquing and tension moves... No two climbers got up any routes the same way.. Fun challenge. Learned some moves and Bit frustrating to hold on but certainly fun..

    May 12, 2013

  • John

    Awesome time today! The wet rock made for an interesting day of climbing. We finished up just as the rain was really starting to come down. Nice meeting and seeing each of you again.

    May 11, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    Fun creative climbing on wet rock! Nice meeting all of you!

    1 · May 11, 2013

  • Guthrie M.

    A little wet but fun!

    May 11, 2013

  • Jeffrey D.

    Too wet for me, heading to the gym.

    May 11, 2013

  • Geoff N.

    See you next Sunday at the at Rainbow Slabs "Please NO RAIN"

    May 11, 2013

  • Cindy

    Sorry, weather doesn't look promising. Hopefully another time.

    May 11, 2013

  • Brian G

    Jay, sounds like you've still got some ideas for fun even with the rain, but I'm going to back out as I already was going to have to leave early for a wedding. Have fun and thanks for organizing!

    May 10, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    Is anyone driving up tomorrow from Cambridge/Somerville area? I don't have a car and really want to come, even if it rains. I'm posting this really late but really hope someone has a spot for me!

    May 10, 2013

    • John

      I will be driving through Boston on 93 on my way up, I could leave a little early and pick you up. PM sent.

      May 10, 2013

  • naturegirl

    Anyone up for carpooling from the Boston/Cambridge area?

    May 5, 2013

    • A former member
      A former member

      I'd like to carpool!

      May 10, 2013

    • naturegirl

      Hey Cathryn...I'm not going due to the rain...but also do not own a car.

      May 10, 2013

  • Geoff N.

    I am going to wait to the last minute tomorrow, but I usually get caught in the rain as it rolls in from the west...
    I am very interested in climbing in Pawtuckaway everyone I talk to tells me it is great

    It has dried for now out here in western MA and I am heading to Farley for some trad and sport climbing... crossing my fingers for tomorrow

    May 10, 2013

  • Guthrie M.

    Sounds like a good plan Jay. I'm up for practicing some new skills. See you in the AM!

    May 10, 2013

  • Jeff B.

    Going to wait til it dries up

    May 10, 2013

  • Jay B.

    PS... Still bring the rock shoes and anything you have for aid climbing.. Never know what bizzaro stir crazy thing we can come up with.. Always remember your climbing with Jay So, that means don't forget your headlamp..<grin> Dry set of cloths in the car might not be bad either...

    May 10, 2013

  • Jay B.

    I have been climbing bare rock off and on with my mountain boots I use on ice for years. Its another skill that you may need down the road on a mixed climbing routes. is more edging then friction.. So on top of you gear bring a rain coat and or poncho and lets get interesting.. Better then staying home and working or doing nothing of interest. We can also scout out the other crags that are all around the area. Also a hiking trail that is a nice short loop could be fun.. Fun is all in the attitude right..

    May 10, 2013

  • Jay B.

    Ok, So.. Yup strong 70% chance of rain.. I will agree we are very likely going to get wet. I will leave you the choice of cancelling your RSVP. Hear me out first. Now I am still going to keep this meetup running. I will not mark anyone down as a no show (which is bad) if last minute just before you roll out of bed you say F&^x that...:-)
    What we can do is another type of climbing. More all mountain.. Same climbing but with mountain boots on or your closest similarity. 3/4-full shank boots.

    May 10, 2013

  • Curtis B.

    I know this is late notice and I'm sure most of you will be working but Justin Raphaelson and I will be top roping at crow hill in leominster tomorrow from 9am until around 5. As of right now there are about 5 of us and I think we have 2 or 3 ropes. If anyone wants to join, send me a text or call:[masked]

    May 9, 2013

  • Rhonda Hendry O.

    I just got back from Vertical Dreams in Manchester.
    Everett and I climbed for almost 2hours.

    May 9, 2013

    • Rhonda Hendry O.

      hope your meet up climb is on for Sat. If not, when it's rescheduled, perhaps I'll have a bit more experience.

      May 9, 2013

  • naturegirl

    Going to wait for better weather.

    May 9, 2013

  • naturegirl

    So, there's a 70% chance of rain...any chance of canceling?

    http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=43.117024121350475&lon=-71.18934631347656

    May 9, 2013

    • Jay B.

      Always. Will not decide till morning. We can always just take a chance. I will be up that way anyways for other reasons.

      May 9, 2013

  • Rhonda Hendry O.

    at a min, I intend to come and watch. I hope that is ok. See you at the Dunkin Donuts. I drive a maroon Jeep Cherokee.

    May 8, 2013

    • Rhonda Hendry O.

      Jay, I have NO experience with this other than ziplining and the mechanical wall at the gym. I also own not a stitch of climbing equipment. I am a quick learner but do not want to take up anyone's time on Saturday to learn the basics. Need to get at least one or two indoor classes under me first. Still, I'd like to watch and if there happens to be time....and you feel like teaching me the ropes....I'm game!!!

      May 8, 2013

    • Jay B.

      Good you got game.. Nice I like folks around here with game.. We will show you what we can...

      May 8, 2013

  • Rudy B.

    I'm going to have to back out of this because nobody has collaborated on carpooling from Boston. Somebody on the waitlist can have in. Hopefully more luck next time!

    May 8, 2013

  • Rhonda Hendry O.

    as a TOTAL newbee, I am also interested. This location is ideal too since it is less than 30min from my home.

    May 8, 2013

  • Susan

    Bummer, was looking forward to checking out Pawtuckaway, but have to go out of town for a baby shower.

    May 6, 2013

  • christiana

    Damn, wtf full already!???

    May 5, 2013

  • Aram

    If a spot opens up for a newbie climber, I'd love to climb this Saturday!

    May 5, 2013

  • Rudy B.

    I would prefer to catch a ride with somebody else (I'll chip in for gas!) but if the group is very short vehicles I can be persuaded to drive.

    May 5, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    I'd like to join if I could get a ride from Somerville/Cambridge/Arlington area. Anyone got an extra seat?

    May 4, 2013

8 went

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