Alpine Ice Climbing: Huntington's Ravine ( Sunday Only )

Mt Washington - Climb Huntington Ravine Classic ( Always a Long Day )

***  Sunday Only ***

The Team's: Everyone Gets Wait Listed..!

As always the size of the Meetup is based on how many people the area can handle & the number of lead climbers who RSVP for the Meetup....!

For each lead climber we pair you up with one experienced belayer and then we can add one newbie climber/Follower.

Its always the understanding that the "Newbie/Follower" has at a minimum climbed before but just not capable of leading on Ice and also has knowledge of the climbing knots and all the gear required.

Sign up...  First to RSVP is the first to fill a opening based on experience needed.

Don't forget   " NO helmet = NO climbing "   Period...!!!

2 Important Things:  

1st: This is being planned as a two (2) day event. Their will be a Meetup for each day. With camping at Harvard Cabin ( Inside or Tents?) overnight. Its Own Meetup... You can sign up for just one of the Meetups. but you will be responsible for meeting us at the Harvard Cabin on time on Sunday.. if you're late gooood Luck...!. 

2nd: Make sure you answer all ( 6 ) the questions at RSVP.. Don't spend the time I don't spend the time adding you to a teams. You might have to do it from a PC or Laptop... FYI


The White Mountains have notoriously unpredictable weather.. Any weather report is only good for 24 hours... Decision on “go – no – go” will be made 24 – 48 hours before the trip...FYI

Meeting Location:

Pinkham Notch Visitor Center

Mount Washington: is one of the highest peaks east of the Mississippi River. It is also one of most popular hiking, backcountry skiing, alpine climbing and ice climbing destinations in New England. Affectionately known as "the Rock Pile," it is located in northern New Hampshire just west of NH SR-16 between North Conway (to the south) and Gorham. It is also known as the "Home of the World's Worst Weather" and the world record holder for the fastest wind speed ever measured: 231 mph on April 12, 1934 (See the "Mountain Conditions" section for more info on weather).

The Fun:

The plan is to climb up into Huntington’s Ravine, Via one of the nine ( 9 ) classics.

Escape Hatch, South Gully, Odell's Gully, Pinnacle Gully, Central Gully, Diagonal Gully, Yale Gully, Damnation Gully, & Finally North Gully.

Most Classic Option,   Pinnacle Gully (WI 3 III)

Route Description:  Pinnacle Gully (WI 3 III)

The approach to the floor of the ravine requires a 2.6 mile hike that climbs 2100' up a wide and generally packed trail. The reason it is wide and packed out is because the US Forest Service Snow Rangers drive a snowcat and snowmobiles up it to do their avalanche forecasts. The descent can be up to 3.5 miles long with a 3400' elevation loss. This, combined with the possibility of a lower snow slope and the climb makes for a long day on the mountain. Given that winter days are short, fitness and efficiency are important qualities a climbing party should posses before climbing in Huntington. 

At the base of the climb in mid winter requires a 400' snow climb on 30 to 35 degree snow slopes. The snow slope increases to about 45 degrees; pickets and a shaft-plunged axe work well for the first belay, or you can climb up until you hit ice. The first pitch has sustained ice of about 60 degrees if you follow the line of least difficulty, but depending on conditions you can make this significantly steeper by heading either left or right.

After the steep ice the angle decreases and there is a fixed belay on the left side, under the rock overhang. From there you climb over some snow and then 2 more bulges of ice, but these are smaller and easier than the first. The gully tops out on a snow slope that leads towards the Alpine Garden; most parties follow that up to the Garden and then descend either the Lions Head Trail or the Escape Hatch.

 We can hike the last bit to the summit and return back to the cars knowing we had a full weekend of fun.

Climbing Teams:


Place a thread here on the board and see if others are willing...


You will need the listed Ice Climbing gear in the files section of our meetup page on line.

This "is not" a Meetup for folks that need to Rent on the same day as this Meetup.

Link to gear list:   Note: no Helmet = No climbing! Period!

Waiver:  Read !!!

Be Warned!

Mountaineering, Skiing – Alpine or Back Country, Rock & Ice Climbing by its very nature is an extremely hazardous activity.

Falling off any part of an climbing route or bouldering challenge or other associated activity's, even hiking to a destination may result in injury or death. Weather, Trail conditions be it a slip on a trail or falling objects like rocks, climbing gear or tree’s from above, or avalanche can all incur injuries’ and/or death.

Any information on this Meetup group page is for the basic understanding of what could be encountered. We do not guaranty any type of accuracy on this information. Seek your own additional resources of information.  You as an active member! Perhaps, lacking any of the following, professional training, good judgment, moral caricature or a conscious. We or anyone on any Meetup-Mountaineers cannot be held responsible in anyway.

When arriving at any Meetup you should always use your own best judgment. Weather or not the conditions “ both physical or mental” are in your best interests. The judgment, Is this a place you should or shouldn’t be?

If you get hurt…. Don’t even think about blaming someone else. You made all the decisions and where warned.  Dragging yourself out of bed and driving to the meeting location. Too walk up to the activity and participate is on you. We are not guides or leaders in any event held. Just the organizers of finding a meeting location that people with similar interests can meet and socialize.

It’s always your right to back out and live the good life with all the rest of the human race eating cheese doodles and Twinkie’s in front of the television for the day….

That said have fun! Play safely! And take the responsibility of your own actions.

The Organizers

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  • John T.

    FYI - Jeffry and I chatted and decided that the conditions were not going to be great on Sunday, so we decided to bail. (I'm still coming up to the cabin, however)

    March 22, 2014

  • Eric R.

    Didn't read details, I do not have adequate gear for overnight

    March 13, 2014

    • Jay B.

      You have choices... Rent the sleeping system (or) travel up for the day only..

      March 13, 2014

    • Mike B.

      A friend and I are coming up to camp at Harvard Cabin Sat night. I've got to head back down Sun by 3pm though so not sure I can join the climb. : (

      March 21, 2014

  • Jeffrey

    Hey everyone. I live in North Conway and we have at least 18" of new snow over the last twelve hours and still coming down.

    March 20, 2014

  • James L.

    All, I unfortunately have to cancel for this weekend. Have some things that have come up that need my attention.

    March 19, 2014

  • Jay B.

    Teams are posted... I see there is some not staying over night... Please share you plan with your lead climber so a time can be set and that you can plan accordingly.

    March 18, 2014

  • Tom S.

    I'm quite sure I'll be in the area sunday, was aiming for Pinnacle. We will see how forecast plays out.

    March 18, 2014

2 went

  • Jay B.
    Trail Name: "Evil Jay", Organizer
    Event Host
  • Kristie W.
    Total, Honey Badger!, Co-Organizer

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