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Alpine Ice Climbing: Huntington's Ravine ( Saturday Only )

Mt Washington - Climb Huntington Ravine Classic ( Always a Long Day )

***  Saturday Only ***

The Team's: Everyone Gets Wait Listed..!

As always the size of the Meetup is based on how many people the area can handle & the number of lead climbers who RSVP for the Meetup....!

For each lead climber we pair you up with one experienced belayer and then we can add one newbie climber/Follower.

Its always the understanding that the "Newbie/Follower" as at a minimum has climbed before but just not capable of leading on Ice and also has knowledge of the climbing knots and all the gear required.

Sign up...  First to RSVP is the first to fill a opening based on experience needed.

Don't forget   " NO helmet = NO climbing "   Period...!!!


1 Important Things:  

1st: Bring a sled to get down quickly

2nd: Make sure you answer all ( 6 ) the questions at RSVP.. Don't spend the time I don't spend the time adding you to a team. You might have to do it from a PC or Laptop... FYI


Climbing Teams:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0At0IBRDDzQ8FdHF2SXBxRUpET0hMTWtmanBjZWZwN1E&usp=sharing



Weather:

The White Mountains have notoriously unpredictable weather.. Any weather report is only good for 24 hours... Decision on “go – no – go” will be made 24 – 48 hours before the trip...FYI


Meeting Location:

Pinkham Notch Visitor Center


Mount Washington: is one of the highest peaks east of the Mississippi River. It is also one of most popular hiking, backcountry skiing, alpine climbing and ice climbing destinations in New England. Affectionately known as "the Rock Pile," it is located in northern New Hampshire just west of NH SR-16 between North Conway (to the south) and Gorham. It is also known as the "Home of the World's Worst Weather" and the world record holder for the fastest wind speed ever measured: 231 mph on April 12, 1934 (See the "Mountain Conditions" section for more info on weather).

The Fun:

The plan is to climb up into Huntington’s Ravine, Via one of the nine ( 9 ) classics.

Escape Hatch, South Gully, Odell's Gully, Pinnacle Gully, Central Gully, Diagonal Gully, Yale Gully, Damnation Gully, & Finally North Gully.


Most Classic Option,   Pinnacle Gully (WI 3 III)

Route Description:  Pinnacle Gully (WI 3 III)

The approach to the floor of the ravine requires a 2.6 mile hike that climbs 2100' up a wide and generally packed trail. The reason it is wide and packed out is because the US Forest Service Snow Rangers drive a snowcat and snowmobiles up it to do their avalanche forecasts. The descent can be up to 3.5 miles long with a 3400' elevation loss. This, combined with the possibility of a lower snow slope and the climb makes for a long day on the mountain. Given that winter days are short, fitness and efficiency are important qualities a climbing party should posses before climbing in Huntington. 

At the base of the climb in mid winter requires a 400' snow climb on 30 to 35 degree snow slopes. The snow slope increases to about 45 degrees; pickets and a shaft-plunged axe work well for the first belay, or you can climb up until you hit ice. The first pitch has sustained ice of about 60 degrees if you follow the line of least difficulty, but depending on conditions you can make this significantly steeper by heading either left or right.

After the steep ice the angle decreases and there is a fixed belay on the left side, under the rock overhang. From there you climb over some snow and then 2 more bulges of ice, but these are smaller and easier than the first. The gully tops out on a snow slope that leads towards the Alpine Garden; most parties follow that up to the Garden and then descend either the Lions Head Trail or the Escape Hatch.

 We can hike the last bit to the summit and return back to the cars knowing we had a full weekend of fun.


Carpooling:

Place a thread here on the board and see if others are willing...


Gear:

You will need the listed Ice Climbing gear in the files section of our meetup page on line.

This "is not" a Meetup for folks that need to Rent on the same day as this Meetup.


Link to gear list:   Note: no Helmet = No climbing! Period!

 http://files.meetup.com/1688204/Gear%20List%20-%20Ice%20Climbing%20%28Follower%2901282013.pdf


Waiver:  Read !!!

Be Warned!

Mountaineering, Skiing – Alpine or Back Country, Rock & Ice Climbing by its very nature is an extremely hazardous activity.

Falling off any part of an climbing route or bouldering challenge or other associated activity's, even hiking to a destination may result in injury or death. Weather, Trail conditions be it a slip on a trail or falling objects like rocks, climbing gear or tree’s from above, or avalanche can all incur injuries’ and/or death.

Any information on this Meetup group page is for the basic understanding of what could be encountered. We do not guaranty any type of accuracy on this information. Seek your own additional resources of information.  You as an active member! Perhaps, lacking any of the following, professional training, good judgment, moral caricature or a conscious. We or anyone on any Meetup-Mountaineers cannot be held responsible in anyway.

When arriving at any Meetup you should always use your own best judgment. Weather or not the conditions “ both physical or mental” are in your best interests. The judgment, Is this a place you should or shouldn’t be?

If you get hurt…. Don’t even think about blaming someone else. You made all the decisions and where warned.  Dragging yourself out of bed and driving to the meeting location. Too walk up to the activity and participate is on you. We are not guides or leaders in any event held. Just the organizers of finding a meeting location that people with similar interests can meet and socialize.

It’s always your right to back out and live the good life with all the rest of the human race eating cheese doodles and Twinkie’s in front of the television for the day….

That said have fun! Play safely! And take the responsibility of your own actions.

The Organizers


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  • Jay B.

    You guys had great weather.. How was it and got any photo's?

    April 15, 2014

    • Alfonso

      Amazing weather. You could see the entire ravine from the parking lot. Clear skies. Went up Odell's. Justin took some pictures.

      1 · April 16, 2014

  • Alfonso

    If anyone needs a floor to crash on for free let me know. Rented a place in Conway.

    April 11, 2014

    • Justin R.

      Curtis and I would love that. We owe ya dinner.

      April 11, 2014

    • Justin R.

      What's the address/your phone number?

      April 11, 2014

  • Alfonso

    Need some info on gear you're bringing. I have a 60m rope and 7 screws ranging from 22 - 16cm.

    April 11, 2014

    • Justin R.

      I have 4 screws, 3 16s and 1 22. Plenty of slings, a 60m rope, enough gear to build anchors.

      April 11, 2014

    • Justin R.

      And 6 quickdraws

      April 11, 2014

  • Tom S.

    What's the scoop here, I might be interested in heading up?

    April 10, 2014

    • Curtis B.

      The scoop is the ice is still great and we're looking to climb it. Can you lead?

      April 10, 2014

    • Alfonso

      Looking to do one of the gullies in the ravine. Weather looks reasonable. Approach about 2.5-3hrs. Maybe come back down through Escape Hatch or just Lion Head.

      April 10, 2014

  • Jay B.

    ZzzzZzzzz Some people don't like filling out the questions....!

    April 10, 2014

    • Justin R.

      Got it

      April 10, 2014

    • A former member
      A former member

      Yep Wildcat cancelled. May see you guys coming down afterwards! :-)

      April 10, 2014

  • Alfonso

    Not sure if the same, but the website states the Wildcat Pentathlon has been cancelled.

    April 9, 2014

  • Jay B.

    @ Fab's.... Thanks for the heads up...

    April 9, 2014

  • A former member
    A former member

    Hi Jay! Just as reminder that it's the Inferno/Wildcat pentathlon this weekend ( on the 12 th) and there will be several hundred athletes and support crews in the valley and on the rock pile!
    Safe climbing. Fab :-)

    April 9, 2014

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