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Mountaineering: Lincolns Throat ( Advanced )

  • Dec 22, 2012 · 6:00 AM

Mountaineering Lincolns Throat

This hike/climb will be based on conditions, but one pitch of ice climbing at WI3 can and should be expected. Essential gear is mandatory. We will be hiking and climbing "off the beaten path"....

This climb is about getting away from the crowds and climbing a mountain.

This is a remote climb.

Take 93 North to Franconia Notch. Park at the trail head parking just after the Basin parking or at the Lafayette Camp Ground. Hike the Old Bridal Path till you are in line with the gully (see 1st photo). Bush wack down through thick spruce to the brook. Cross the brook and head up the right drainage. Follow this drainage till you hit the basin then take the right drainage to the summit. Follow the ridge trail right to Haystack Mt. and descend the Falling Waters trail. It’s about 9 miles round trip.

NOTE: In terms of gear in the question when RSVP'ing, basically you will need a harness, helmet, boots and crampons that work with them, and ice axes. I can provide 1 set of ice axes if needed. You will also need the standard winter clothing that is appropriate for a climb of this nature. I will supply ropes and protection, but if you like to bring gear such as ice screws, please feel free.

Disclaimer: Participation in ice climbing involves significant risk of personal injury and death. No amount of skill, equipment and experience can make ice climbing safe.

Waiver: Your participation in this event is completely voluntary and you waive all claims against the meetup, it's organizers or the members of this event should you become injured, disabled or deceased. You agree to climb within your level of skill, understanding and comfort and not knowingly jeopardize the safety of a fellow climber by attempting anything that is beyond your level of skill, understanding or comfort.

NB: Lincolns Throat is subject to avalanche conditions if the snow accumulation is high enough. We will be roping up for all sections of the climb that call for it.

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  • Dan W.

    Lots of fun. We'll have to go back and find the route!

    December 24, 2012

  • Szymon

    Great day, no questions! We need to go back for more!

    December 24, 2012

  • Jeffrey D.

    Great day out with a strong group. And best yet we left some unfinished business, so we get to go back another day!

    December 24, 2012

  • Jay B.

    Great time! So much like meeting so many other good adventurist climbers! Great job Organizing this trip together James.. Fine job my man!

    December 24, 2012

  • Jeff B.

    I agree with James, it was a fun day out with some solid people. Hope to do it again soon!

    December 23, 2012

  • James L.

    Fun day out, folks. Had a great time. Super strong group...

    December 23, 2012

  • Dan W.

    I'm going to have to agree with Jeffrey on this one, now that I can see how the conditions on the ground are developing. There are basically 2 possibilities for tomorrow: 1) it gets cold overnight and all the rain water freezes, making the trail extremely dangerous because of the lack of snow. 2) it stays warm all night, making the ice climbing sketchy, as it has now been a few days in a row of warm temps. I haven't been on this route before, but my impression is that it may be a good one to save for another day. I'm still planning to meet you all in the morning, but I'm hoping there are some folks looking for an alternate plan.

    December 21, 2012

    • Dan W.

      I was wrong! Good day, everyone. Good climbing with you.

      December 23, 2012

  • Jeffrey

    Hi. I am not on this climb but a resident of North Conway. Absoultly poured all day, really hard and windy. Best to check weather for tomorrow. Don't wish to put a damper (no pun intended) on your plans but just wanted to give you an update.

    December 21, 2012

  • Dan W.

    Hi all - just want to check in and see if anyone has given more thought to whether this is on for tomorrow? The report right now is that it's warm, windy and raining in Franconia Notch, which doesn't bode well. Weather for tomorrow is looking like mixed precip all day. I'm generally up for an adventure, but freezing rain, large groups and slippery mountains don't always go well together. Hope it's still on, but I wanted to put that out there.

    December 21, 2012

    • James L.

      Still on. Ill post any last minute or plan changes tonight, but we'll do something. Im leaving people's attendance up them and their "weather comfort" level. It could be a wet day. It could be a sucky wet day. We might even change plans last minute so keep that in mind ...

      December 21, 2012

  • Jeffrey D.

    I think the expert consensus is that conditions tomorrow will be entirely doable. Rain has pretty much moved thru, and snowpack is thin enough that the rain from today won't bother us much. Tomorrow we should just see flurries and an occasional snow shower up on the mountain. Wind and temps very manageable. I am hitting the road in a few minutes...I imagine others are already en route. That's my 2 cents.

    December 21, 2012

  • John

    Can I catch a ride with someone? I'm coming from central Connecticut so I can meet you anywhere along the[masked] route as well as the 91 route. I'm flexible with departure and return as well as hotel or camping although I'd prefer camping. Thanks!

    December 21, 2012

  • James L.

    Despite weather outlook, not cancelling. If you have not posted your phone # please send to me in case we have to change plans that morning. Ill send out a message tomorrow night as well.

    December 20, 2012

  • Lei

    Anyone leaving from Boston (I'm in Medford, close to highway)? Would appreciate a ride. I can leave Friday or Saturday early, up to the driver, and will be happy to share motel if leave on Friday.

    December 18, 2012

    • Jeff B.

      Lei, I am staying at the Shapleigh Bunkhouse in Crawford Notch, it is $48 for non-AMC members - I checked and there is still room there. It is about a 25 minute ride back down to the base of the climb in the morning. I am planning on departing early Friday evening, happy to give you a ride if you want.

      December 18, 2012

    • Lei

      Thank you Jeff. I've got a ride from James and will be camping with them.

      December 18, 2012

  • Jay B.

    If any of you more experienced folks would like to stick around for Sunday I could use a hand with the newbies at the base of willies slide working on there basic skills and maybe a pitch or two up and to the left where the trail is for the decent. Doubt we will have enough time for the regular 5 pitch's that takes to get to the top. Good rest day stuff..:-) Certainly can bail early to roll home if you choose too.. This was just a idea.. You can talk to me on Sat..

    December 18, 2012

  • Dan W.

    Ice was great this weekend. With cold temps, should be even better on Saturday. Looking forward to climbing with you all!

    December 17, 2012

  • Jeffrey D.

    With the 6am start I am thinking about staying Friday night at Parker's motel Rt 3 N. Lincoln, < 10 minutes from trailhead. If someone wanted to share a room that would be $35-40 each. Email me direct if interested or post back here. Jeff

    December 17, 2012

  • Jeffrey D.

    Hope to join you now that a spot has opened up. Really psyched for this one!

    December 14, 2012

  • James L.

    Mandatory Gear:

    Headlamp (w/new batteries), Helmet, Harness, Mountaineering Boots, Technical Crampons (they will take a beating, be warned. Bring micros for mixed sections if you have a hard time with crampons on rock), 2 prussik loops, 3 locking carabiners, belay device, one sling or cordellete that will sling over your shoulder/chest without being too long. One to tie in with at belays, ice tools you are confident and comfortable with, alpine axe and/or trekking poles. Good winter clothes (big puffy included), 2 pair of good gloves or mittens, minimum.

    Do not bring anything you dont absolutely need. You WANT light for this...

    James

    December 10, 2012

  • Jeffrey

    Taking myself off. Thought I might be up for this but by the latest posting from James , have concerns. Good luck to everyone and be careful.

    December 10, 2012

  • James L.

    Hey Everyone,

    Just an update. Jay, Eugene and I did the Throat yesterday and I just wanted to REITERATE this is a serious climb. It is not for the faint of heart. Its a long sloping ice rink plus a nice pitch of WI3 ice. Slipping/falling on this climb in some sections means a long slide down, pin-balling off hard objects we call rocks. This will be a full 12+ day and we will be leaving in the dark and returning in the dark. Our current thought is to set up ropes along the route that people can ascend with prussiks or ascenders. This is going to add to the length of the day, with the numbers we have. If you have ANY reservation about moving on long sections of sloping ice in crampons, PLEASE consider this climb carefully. If you have any questions please ask; Jay, Eugene or myself...

    Thanks,
    James

    December 10, 2012

  • James L.

    Quasi-Alpine Start - Moving the start time (time we hit the trailhead) to 6am. This time is firm. Cheers! James

    December 2, 2012

  • James L.

    All - There is a 0 guest policy on this hike for a logistical reason; an ice climb is involved and gear and sufficient lead climbers are needed to accommodate. This means unexpected guests can, and most likely will, be turned away.

    November 13, 2012

  • James L.

    All - I will be posting a drop dead start time for the hike/climb. Reason for this is because of the limited light we will have and the time it will take given our team size for the ice pitch. Right now that drop dead start time stands at 7am. It could go as early as 6am, but no earlier. Keep this in mind. This means hitting the trail head at one of these times, not pulling into the parking lot half dressed. Time matters on this short day of the year, so if you are going to be running late, you are going to be left behind. Thanks for your compassionate understanding! :-)

    November 13, 2012

  • James L.

    All, a note about gear, particularly crampons and boots. While this is not Bridalveil Falls, it is ice climbing. Stiff boots and crampons designed for climbing ice are essentially, "essential". I just want to highlight this fact. I have no boots or "proper" crampons to loan. Make sure you understand what a pitch of WI3 ice entails and you are securing the right gear. This goes for ice tools too. I only have one set to loan. Just an FYI. Thanks, Jim

    November 8, 2012

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