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Mount Bancroft - East Ridge


It's starting to look like the weather is stabilizing and acting more like Summer and less like Winter. Let's go get Bancroft's East Ridge before all the snow melts off it.

The East Ridge is known for having a short rappel, a short technical rock climbing section, and many stretches of knife edged snow, giving it a real mountaineering feel. With the amount of snow in the mountains right now, I am sure that all the snow ridges will be very much "in" and a lot of fun.

This is not a hike by any means. You will be required to scramble exposed, snowy class 3 and class 4 terrain, sometimes wearing crampons, usually without a rope. We will belay the headwall and possibly some of the snow crossings because they are so exposed. If we have too many people, we will probably just fix ropes wherever we need them. That said, this is a great beginner mountaineering route, so if you want to push your abilities under the guidance of some more experienced mountaineers I hope you can make it out.

Crampons are optional, but everyone must have rigid mountaineering boots. Soft soled hiking boots are not OK on this route! If anyone shows up with soft soled boots they will be sent packing! Below is a list of other mandatory gear.

Required Equipment:
- Full shank mountaineering boots
- Mountaineering axe
- Helmet
- Harness
- Rappel device and two locking carabiners
- Your winter layering and dayhiking arsenal
- Extra gloves (they will probably get wet)
- Snowshoes (deep snow pack, will determine at trailhead)
- Crampons (recommended if you have them, if you don't you can climb in the back and take advantage of everyone ahead of you kicking steps)


Join or login to comment.

  • Chad

    Justin (or Dustin?) where did you get those $150 boots? Forgot to ask.

    May 18, 2013

    • James A.

      Hey Chad, Dustin got those boots on Sierra Trading Post but it was a while ago so i'm not sure if they still have any. Good climbing with you!

      May 19, 2013

  • James A.

    Had an awesome day, good to meet everyone! I look forward to climbing with you all again soon.

    May 19, 2013

  • Jason M.

    Cloudy and cold. Perfect conditions for cramponing neve all day long! Thanks everyone for making it out.

    May 18, 2013

  • Dima

    Sorry guys. Have to bail. Will try to join next time!

    May 17, 2013

  • Chad

    I'll find gray Prius, I have white Mazda 4-door. Unless I missed it I don't know what section of Wooly we're meeting at. CC, or whatever is across from Conoco station? I still have an older phone,[masked] if need to call.

    May 17, 2013

    • Jason M.

      Yes right across from the gas station. I'll have my lights on or something.

      May 17, 2013

    • Jason M.

      James, saw the forecast, still think it's worth a shot. Most of the precip will come after noon. We will have to move fast.

      May 17, 2013

    • James A.

      Cool, I think my buddy and I may head up there early. I will bring my own gear in case we don't run into you.

      May 17, 2013

  • Dylan H.

    Any thoughts on the approach snowpack? My snowshoes are locked up in Denver :/ but I've got AT skis I'd rather approach with anyway if either are needed.

    May 17, 2013

    • Jason M.

      Wouldn't do skis, the road usually melts out in patches. You would probably do some serious damage or be constantly carrying them

      May 17, 2013

  • Leonard M.

    Cant make it tomorrow but you all have fun and be safe

    May 17, 2013

  • Dylan H.

    Also, any interest in carpooling from Boulder (to the lots)?

    I would prefer to ride along, but would have room for another 3 or 4 if I drove.

    May 16, 2013

    • Jason M.

      Dylan I can car pool from Boulder. Meet at REI at 415? We can take my car.

      May 16, 2013

    • Dylan H.

      4:15 at REI sounds good!

      May 17, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    Sorry, must work tomorrow. Have fun!

    May 17, 2013

  • Jason M.

    So looks like we will have thunderstorms moving in in the afternoon. We'll have to move pretty fast to get this done in time, but looks totally do-able. Carpool from Boulder leaving REI at 415. No need to bring any extra ropes or gear.

    May 16, 2013

  • Jeff G.

    Sorry, cant make it after all.

    May 16, 2013

    • Jason M.

      No worries Jeff, hope you can make it out in the future.

      May 16, 2013

  • Dylan H.

    Looks awesome, would love to join. I have a rope I could bring along if needed.

    May 16, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    I have a[masked]m dry rope in case we need it. Just let me know and I'll bring it.

    May 15, 2013

  • Leonard M.

    Looking iffy for me on this. Will confirm either way by Friday

    May 15, 2013

  • Dima

    :)

    May 14, 2013

    • Jason M.

      Dima! Glad you can make it out!

      May 14, 2013

    • Dima

      Glad to be actually able to make it out finally! I'll bring an extra rope and some random crap if we need it. I have an 8.9 dry 60m

      May 14, 2013

  • Jeff G.

    Should I bring any extra protection (thinking snow pro) or rope(s)?

    May 14, 2013

    • Jason M.

      Jeff, I'll get back to you on the protection. We might need another rope. Let's firm up on Friday.

      May 14, 2013

  • LIV

    Maybe although we have both done this one.

    May 13, 2013

    • Jason M.

      Yeah I know I've done it a handful of times as well. Just a total classic and super fun!

      May 14, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    I would have loved to do this on Sunday! Have fun -

    May 13, 2013

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