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SURVIVE AND THRIVE PHILADELPHIA Message Board SURVIVE AND THRIVE -- Discussion Forum › 2012 Essential Overview meeting handout

2012 Essential Overview meeting handout

Group Organizer
Philadelphia, PA
Howdy folks!!

We had a terrific meetup last night. Thanks to all who participated. As promised we are sending out the meeting's handout via this email as well as posting it in our FILE section.

Take care, stay sharp.

Survive and Thrive's 2012 Essentials Overview­adelphia-region/

Chance favors the prepared mind. Open to all faiths, beliefs and lifestyles. BAR NONE. We are rooted in love, not based on fear. Inspired to ease suffering through empowerment of families with knowledge, we balance masculine and feminine principles to benefit Humanity. Always provided free of charge. This is NOT a survival group that plans to work together in the event of a "Grid down" scenario, but rather a group of individuals focused on SELF PRESERVATION AND CARE OF OUR LOVED ONES.This is not a stereotypical (all male, God and guns) survival group. Atheist, Muslim, Jew, LGBT, Families, Immigrants – all people are welcome. Don't be scared, get prepared.

Our meeting topics include but are not limited to -

Sovereignty / Natural Law / flexing the U.S. Constitution / self reliance / food preservation and storage / water procurement and purification / making shelter / lethal and non lethal defense / Nuke-Chem-Bio issues / self reliant psychology / bartering / family oriented strategies and techniques / civil unrest / gardening in small spaces / natural disasters / stealth and subterfuge / resisting martial law / emergency medicine and trauma care / repelling home invasions / wilderness survival / fire making and fighting / tracking / traps and snares / animal skinning and butchering / urban escape and evasion / hygiene / home heating options / off Grid living

Be sure to look into our huge FILE section. It is loaded with free information for you to download and share with others. There are many viewpoints represented in our group. With the exception of the U.S. Constitution, we always insist that ALL POLITICS BE LEFT AT THE DOOR. All meeting are family friendly and most folks find them to be fun even as we deal with deadly serious subjects. Mindset - Courage is not the absence of fear but action in spite of it.

It always has been and always will be the power of the mind that has the most influence on the course of human events. Mental and physical training trumps gear every time. In times of stress you will sink to the level of your training. Buying is not doing. Strengthen your physical memory. Practice now, store now, think outside of your comfort zone. Each and every moment that our Grid is up is a blessing.


Psyche - The most important of all skillsets is the management of the mind. Understanding your own neurochemistry and how to influence or control it.

1. Natural Law, Sovereignty and your DNA - Our ancestrial mothers and fathers have survived wars, plagues, famines and untold suffering to get us to the point in time and space that we occupy. Your DNA is a living code that uses hydration (water) to rearrange matter ( food) into complex cellular structures ( your body ) , as long as you maintain homeostasis it is always shedding and regrowing every single cell of the body. Neither the "State" nor the "Grid" is responsible for you or your DNA. Your body is your property. All law is somehow property law. Natural Law and self ownership is enshrined by the Constitution of the United States of America. The defense of your property is your Natural Law right and responsibility.

2. Survivor, Prepper, Refugee, Zombie - A survivor is reliant upon a skillset and personal drive to procure and produce neccesities for maintaining homeostasis. A prepper is one that plans and acts in preparation for turbulent times by stocking up on supplies. Refugees are homeless and cannot do for themselves or their loved ones that is left to wander and beg the mercy of others for better or worse. "Zombie" is code for unprepared refugee. The " Zombie Apocalypse" consciusness in movies/video games/self is a dehumanizing social trend that enables well armed preppers to murder unprepared human beings from a distance with reduced guilt. There are many THOUSANDS of psuedo - preppers that very well armed that plan to kill and steal their way through a Grid collapse. Take care.

3.The Grid - All energy and delivery systems - electricity, store bought food, heating fuel, gasoline, potable water, cell/smart phones, landline phones, trucks and trains to transport goods to stores and consumers. Police , Fire and EMTs ready to help you deal with emergencies.

4. To keep a secret or build a tribe? What is the role of charity and mercy? People are capable of terrific acts of love and malevolence. Tribes have always been the backbone for our species ( DNA ) and the rule of Natural Law has kept the strong sheparding the weak over time. Building community can help those around you to ease potential suffering and death. Of course trust is not alway easy to come by . Many deadly serious preppers operate with nearly complete silence, holding the understanding that their neighbors are their biggest threat in a prolonged Grid down scenanrio. Some preppers have settled on a middle ground and are ready to " Give until it hurts." These are powerful choices to make one way and the other, best done ahead of time.

5. Observe Past, Present and Future through micro and macro scopic vision -

Look to and through the human mind using superposition of the mind. See yourself as one with as well as separate from all people and things.

Past : Open your mind to all of human history, how and what we do to and for each other for better and worse. Mine history for truth and trends. Look to the esoteric traditions and alternative views of history. Question what you think you know.

Present : PAY ATTENTION to the reality of current events & your physical surroundings. Attention is all that we have to give. Seek alternate news and world views, use the 80/20 rule when taking news from mainstream media ( MSM ), shake yourself out of your mental comfort zone often. Stay mentally agile and build fortitude by challenging assumptions. is a strong resource for reality based thinking.

Future : Project your imagination into all potential realities and work your way backwards. Begin with the end in mind. Be here now while attuning yourself to potential realities as best as you can understand them. Influence the odds. You cannot control but you can influence. Practice what you plan, building physical memory now is the best way to perform well at the moment of truth. Training trumphs gear. Apply this to all aspects of your prep.

6.Predator - An entity that will abduct, abuse, criminally attack, forcibly violate, plunder, and then kill a weaker entity. Inhumane and merciless. We all know that terrible things happen each and everyday with our "Grid" up. The savage and brutal nature comes out even more so in chaotic and poverty stricken times.

An outstanding tool for glimpsing the predator mind is the A&E show - I Survived .http://www.biography....­ Watch every one that you can.

The shock and horror is an important part of the process for your mind and heart to become more hardened and more aware.It is a hard heart that kills.

7.Force multipliers - That which takes lesser energy and makes it greater. A Leatherman ( multitool ) in your hand can do dozens of tasks that your hand alone cannot. Night vision monoculars are a force multiplier. A bicycle is too as it enables further travel in less time with the same effort put out. Thinking about force multipliers in your home defense is critical. Understand that all you can do is increase the odds in your favor. Life will always be a role of the dice. Firearms are excellent force multipliers. Think about your weaknesses and consider what it will take to force multiply in that area.

8.Survival of the flattest - in many situations the one that remains closest to the ground, keeps their heads the lowest, does not stick up and catch attention is the one more likely to arise from the situation at a later point in time. This principle works with bullets, armed forces of humans, your workplace , etc. Survival of the Flattest is time tested by brave and cowardly souls alike, it is a powerful tool .

That said you must understand the difference between this and freezing with fear.

9.Fight Flight Freeze - Three basic threat responses in the brain. Think about each one on your own time. Honestly assess yourself. One of these three stands dominant in each of our hearts. Which are you? Once you answer that for yourself then build on your strength.

*Fight - What is worth fighting for? Why would you choose to use force to refuse and resist the violence of predators?

For what are you prepared to kill another person? Sovereignty of your Self? Family? Tribe? To keep your resources?

It is your killer instinct that must be harnessed if you are to perform at the moment of truth.

*Flight - Run away. Unfortunately this is often an impossibility when a predatory situation has developed. Once there are multiple intruders in the home it may or may not be too late. What are your exit strategies? How can you escape from your home? What can you do today that will stack the odds of escape in your favor? Where can you go? How will you get there? Those who fail to plan , plan to fail. Don't become a refugee.

*Freeze - Do nothing. Stay still, don't move, do what you are told to do and this may all be over soon.

While it may overlap with Survival of the Flattest, freezing has contributed to the deaths of countless millions of humans through history. Yet it remains the most common fear response and the favorite of predators. Stunned drivers burn in cars when they don't remove a seatbelt. A first sucker punch goes unchallenged as the prey says " wait a minute...", then the rest of the attack goes as the attacker planned. Millions of humans were "ghettoed", put on cattle cars and then ushered into ovens. It happened so quickly that the population being culled huddled like sheep hoping for mercy and humane thought to bubble up in the hearts of their predators.

Unless you are unseen, unheard, unsmelled,.... freezing is the WORST THING THAT YOU CAN DO.

Never believe a predator when he says "just do what I say and I'll let you go." Refuse and resist. It is better to die on your feet than to live on your knees.


Water Procurement, Purification and Preservation

H20 - the Universal solvent carries many forms of energy from one point in space to another. Potential sources of water for emergency use: Water heaters (should be flushed out from the bottom valve every six months to remove mineral deposits) Swimming pools, puddles, veggie cans, urine and grey water. Fill bathtubs, pots and sinks during pending emergency. Down spout water reclamation and stretched tarps that guide into containers. Transpiration: cover end of tree limb with clear plastic bag (including all leaves). Wrap end tight to limb for air tight seal. Green house effect produces water through roots of tree, leaves sweat water

Municipalities filter water to the minimum specification from the Federal Government. The law allows sewage in the water supply making human/animal fecal matter a major contaminate of our water. Other contaminates are excreted pharmaceuticals, household chemicals, pesticides, heavy metals, petroleum products and anything else that gets flushed or washed down the storm sewer or sink drain.

-Distillation: Liquid with impurities (urine, grey water, river etc) is heated into a vapor and then condensed back into a liquid. Boiling water for cooking food and sterilizing drinking water is essential. Distilling water is the SAFEST and SIMPLIST route that you can go. Distilling is just capturing steam after the boiled water has released the impurities by shifting into a gaseous state. One way to do this is to secure a tall GLASS inverted overtop of the spout on a tea pot. As the steam condenses, just collect what comes out of the upside down glass. Always use glass or metal for this, never plastic.

-Distillation method 1: Free System - Boil water, capture steam and condense through copper tubing (coiled is preferred) into clean metal or glass container. System needs to be closed using aluminum (no plastic). Copper tube needs to be at very top of container of heated water and at the bottom of receiving vessel. Experiment to make yours using videos on youtube as guides. Make still and use it before emergency and know how to use it. Distillation will remove minerals but water is for hydration not nutrition . H20 is not a significant source of minerals.

-Distillation method 2: Solar Still - Make hole in ground that is twice as wide as it is deep. Place black cloth (t-shirt) on bottom of hole. This step is optional but will increase efficiency if large volumes of water are required Drop in receiving vessel in the center of hole Install grey water supply hose to bottom of hole. Optional if greater quantities are desired Install food grade latex hose into receiving vessel

Pack around receiving vessel with leaves and grass Cover with 3mil clear cover, make taught and air tight. Note: Cover should be clear and has to be air tight around hole and around the two optional hoses. Hoses must also be plugged when not in use Slip rock on center of clear cover to depress center towards vessel to direct water into vessel.

Multistage Filtration: Note: It is important that the core process of multistage filtration not be amended or serious illness or possibly death could result.

-Step 1: Particulate removal. Remove large particulate through media such as cheese cloth, t-shirt or nylon. This media should be crumpled in order to increase surface area but not to severely restrict water flow. Water needs to be added slowly for correct filter process. Sand or clay is the next layer of particulate media. Sand should have a pre-rinse to remove outer contaminates and finer dust particles. Clay soil will also work.

-Step2: Carbon Filtering, Carbon filtering removes tastes, odors and chemicals. The preferred type of carbon media is bacterio-static Carbon which will resist bacteria growth. Silver impregnated carbon can be purchased online or from water treatment centers. Carbon should also be pre-rinsed in order to remove outer dust. Up to three rinse applications may need to be preformed. Rinsing of the carbon will also remove some of the cloudiness for clearer water. Carbon can also be made in an emergency situation. Thorough charring of hard woods such as Walnut, Cherry, Oak, Maple, etc will provide excellent carbon properties. Wood should not be burnt to an ash though, just blackened. Never use charcoal briquettes from BBQ

-Step 3: Bacteria removal. Chlorine bleach or Iodine can be used in order to kill bacteria as multistage filtration will not remove it. Bleach must have at least 3% sodium hypochlorite. The ratio of bleach is 16 drops or 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. Wait time is a minimum of half hour for bleach to kill bacteria. . Chlorine and Iodine are poisons, so use wisely. You can buy condensed chlorinating powder form from any pool supply store NOW and then later add 2 teaspoons of it to one gallon of water, then you have one gallon of bleach. OR Boil the water for 1 - 3 minutes, cooking germs to death. BOILING DOES NOT REMOVE ANYTHING.

Water Storage: Ideally water storage should be calculated at 1 gallon of water per person per day. Numerous options for containers include juice bottles all the way to 55 gallon drums (food grade-HDPE). Re-used juice and soda bottles are ideal and can be easily stored in closets and under furniture. Only food grade plastic should be used. Used drums should be suspect as the previous material in the drum may have left potentially dangerous by- products. If using city tap water no additional Chlorine is required as additional Chlorine has been added to provide clarity to the water. Pre-cleaning the container with a bleach and water combination and thoroughly rinsing is a good idea. In order to preserve freshness all air must be purged from the storage container. This is easily accomplished by filling container so the meniscus (water bonding to water) of the water is above the bottle opening just prior to the overflowing point; tapping container to remove as many air pockets as possible and then by installing plug or cap allowing air to be pushed from container. 15/30/55 gallon storage containers can be sourced inexpensively. Store bought 1 gallon jugs of spring/distilled H20 do not store well over time, plastic will break down and leak. Stash as much water as you can now. Most importantly, practice these skills now and become proficient in good times so that the experience serves you when times are bad. Share the knowledge, make it family fun.


Food prep and storage basics

Keep everything airtight, waterproof, away from the heat, Sun and varmints. Keep your active pantry area AND emergency supply area stocked at all times. No excuses.

Nutritional value - There may be certain compromises in risk management ; metals, chemicals, sugars, sodium, lifestyle. For the most part you can simply eat what you want albeit in improvised circumstances.

Plan 14 meals for 7 days ( Brunch and Dinner for your family ) as a start. This is a simple and attainable goal for you to get started. After that you can work on a 1 month , 3 month and then 1 year meal plan for your family. If you plan to be charitable DO NOT COUNT GIVEAWAYS AS YOUR OWN. Some folks prepare small family meals in to-go bags for desperate souls. Weigh out the options for yourself.

1. Bulk dry - Stock up on Rice / Cereal / Wheat / Oatmeal / Beans & Lentils / Salt / Sugar /Powdered Milk and Potatoes / Pasta / Pet food – Food grade DIATOMATIOUS EARTH is an excellent mechanical pesticide, it is NON TOXIC yet is a great way to keep bugs out of dried food stuffs. Spread it liberally in and on your dried food. It is also used for deworming humans and animals alike. Look into it.

2. Canned food - It must be rotated twice per year. When you buy it write the sell by date on the can with a Sharpie. Remember the date on the can is only a guide.

Most canned goods will last much longer, however if something doesn't smell right or your instinct steers you away from a product, trust your instincts. If you have ingested a questionable food, induce vomiting immediately . Food poisoning can be reduced or thwarted in this way. This issue can be avoided by rotating your stock of cans twice per year. Simply "shop" from yourself and then have the discipline to replace it right away. Buy only canned foods that you want to eat, because you will . Ask yourself " Can I live with : tuna / salmon / baked beans / Beefaroni / fruit cocktail / green beans / peanut butter / corn / chicken soup / evaporated milk / boiled potatoes / sardines / chili / spagettiOs / etc. ? "

3. Sealing - For dried food or food that you plan to keep frozen, vacuum packer is a good thing to have on hand. It enables food and other important things to be stored underground , in water, in the freezer, or in a pantry without bacterial and water damage. Vacuum packers retail for $50 to $150 and are a wise investment. Another lower tech way to seal air and water out of a package is to melt candle wax in a pan and dip all sides and edges of the package in the wax.. This is commonly used to preserve cheeses all over the world. For example a pound of Velveeta cheese food product ( remember, compromises ) will be made shelf stable for 3 or more years using this method. Boxes of pasta and rice can also benefit from this treatment.

4. Canning - there are several hundred recipes for canning EVERY KIND OF FOOD THAT YOU CAN IMAGINE. This is just a primer overview.

Every food falls into one of 2 categories; High ph (most fruits and veggies) and Low ph (meats and starches). They all use one or a combination of the following as preservatives: Salt / Sugar / Vinegar / Baking Soda /Baking Powder / Lemon juice (not fresh, pasteurized) / Alcohol. High PH foods can be canned in mason jars in a large pot in which the jars will be covered by 2 inches of water and boiled for 20 - 30 minutes, then left to cool for a few hours. Low PH foods (beef, chicken, pork, fish, venison) MUST ONLY be prepared in a pressure cooker ($ 40 - $250) , they need an additional boost of intensity to be properly sterilized. Jars must be sterile. There should be no more and no less than 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch of headspace (air space) at the top of the jar. Jar's screw tops should be wiped off. Lids should not be over tightened. Jars must never touch each other nor the pot directly lest the glass break. Cold jars dropped in hot water will break and vice versa. There are specialized tool sets (funnels, tongs and magnets) that can be purchased for $10 - $15. If your finished jar ever has a vacuum lid the pops, it has been compromised. Canning is fun and easy.

5. Drying - Using the Microwave / Oven / Grill / Smoker / and of course the Sun you can dry meats , fruits and veggies that can be reconstituted and / or eaten as is.Hamburger Rocks, dried fish, strongly seasoned jerked meat and garden vegetables all make wonderful additions to soups and noodles, adding flavor and texture. There is no magic to drying food; low heat and time are all you need. Again , recipes abound. There is not much to limit you ability here.

6. Salt - It deserves its own topic. You can dry meat packed in salt and hide it away for long periods of time. Roman soldiers were paid by the empire in salt, salted meat has sustained warriors, mariners and homesteaders alike for centuries. There are many simple brine solution recipes available in the net and in books that keep meats and fish preserved without drying them out.

7. MREs and Freeze dried food - a 12 pack of MREs retails for $55 - $80 per case. They generally have a shelf life of 15 - 20 years. Freeze dried food needs to be reconstituted with boiling water.

Both are good ways to stock up if money is not an object, but there are not the most cost effective.

8. Hiding your stash - Why hide? Friends, family and law enforcement (MILITARY AND POLICE - RESEARCH THE REPEAL OF POSSE COMMATUS AND NORTHCOM) should only know what you intentionally allow them to know. Secrets should be kept from the general population. You don't want unwanted groups banging on your door wanting to appropriate your hard work and investments. They should be warned now so that they prepare for themselves. Subterfuge is to have a person think an object is something other than what it is. Camouflage is having an object hidden in plain sight.

Of course there are a wide variety of techniques to be employed here. Just a few for food , water and weapon storage are : Bury things in a backyard without neighbors seeing you /Utilize dead space under and behind beds, cabinets and couches / Add shelves above a drop ceiling / Stack things in the backs of closets / Use decorative trunks / drape fabric over sturdy bins or boxes and decorate with a lamp or collectables. Remember the role of prudence and modesty. Being humble and close to the Earth may keep you alive. Living beneath your means now will help you better deal later while stocking up on simplicity now.

9 . Sprouting – You can make sprouting jars from glass mason jars with screen mesh over the tops to allow water to be rinsed twice per day over the seeds or beans that you grow.Alfalfa - Known as the "King of Sprouts", alfalfa was first used by the ancient Arabs. They gave alfalfa its name, which means, "father of all foods". Alfalfa contains a huge amount of chlorophyll, every known vitamin, and is very rich in minerals. What's more, like all seeds, when you sprout alfalfa seeds, the nutrients increase! If you could have only one food, your very best choice would be alfalfa sprouts! Beans - Kidney, garbanzo, pinto and others. Sprouting beans is a great way to get rid of beans' gases. The beans become healthier, more delicious, cook more quickly and they lose their gaseous qualities. You can use sprouted beans in cooked dishes like chili or bean and rice—just as you would the cooked beans. Broccoli- As nutritious and delicious as broccoli is—you must try broccoli sprouts. Sprouted broccoli is even better than broccoli! Make sure you buy sprouting seeds from a source that does not coat the seeds. Garlic - Along with onions and parsley, garlic is often grown just a little bit longer in order to get some greens. These seeds produce pungent greens that can be used to flavor salads, sandwiches and other dishes. Mung bean sprouts have been eaten by the Chinese culture for thousands of years. Mung beans are used in more ways than any other sprouts. Radish is a legume, and its sprouts impart a very tangy flavor. If you add just a few to a salad or a sandwich, you will get a nice peppery zip. Soybeans are used in similar ways to mung beans. The sprouts are rich in vitamin C. In fact, ½ cup of soybean sprouts has the same amount of vitamin C as 6 glasses of orange juice! Soybeans have been used to replace meat, butter, cheese and milk. Wheat, the "staff of life", has been the mainstay of the human race for centuries. Sprouted wheat increases 600% in vitamin C and higher mineral and enzyme levels.


Fire ! Emergency firefighting, heating and cooking.

This presentation is for informational purposes only , the presenter has been a Montgomery County Pa.Firefighter since 2002 and offers this basic information to empower those that need help should there ever be a situation in which conventional firefighting, heating and cooking methods are not available. Disaster firefighting - In the aftermath of any disaster , fire has the single most potential for escalation. Relying on the Fire Department in a time of mass disruption is sheer folly. The FD will be overworked and the members may not even be there because they are attending to their own homes. Remember Katrina. To put out a fire you must cool or remove the source that is causing the burning process, exclude the air supply that the fire needs to burn, remove the new fuel that the fire will use to continue the burning ,or interrupt the chemical reaction taking place within the flame zone of the fire.

Class A - ordinary combustibles ( wood , vegetation , plastics) anything that leaves an ash . Best fought with water and smothering ( sand , dirt, wet blanket )

Class B - flammable liquids and gases ( gasoline , meth lab , cooking grease , propane , alcohol , kerosene )

These fires are capable of flowing and can be pushed around or increase in intensity when sprayed with water.They can also reignite if the stream of the extinguishing agent is interrupted or blown off by the wind. Often with Class B fires the vapors will collect in confined areas and will explode if they contact an ignition source. Keep air flowing to prevent this buildup ( bust out windows and doors ) . If possible shut off the source like a gas main valve or propane tank . Class C - involves energized electrical equipment ( power distribution panels, electric motors , computers ) The main threat here is electrocution , NEVER use water on a Class C. Once the power is cut then it can be handled as a Class A or B. Baking soda is a good extinguishing agent for smaller Class B and C fires.Class D - burning of combustible metals ( magnesium , aluminum , car fires ) unless you have a Class D extinguisher ( or it is a small fire and is smotherable with sand and dirt) , let it burn out. If you hose it down with water then molten metal may explode and scatter around the area. You can hose off combustibles ( potential Class As and Bs ) around the Class D fire to keep it from spreading.

Remember to PASS ! Pull Aim Squeeze Sweep. When you use an extinguisher you should -Pull the pin, Aim at the base of the fire (keep the wind at your back!) , Squeeze the top lever and keep it upright, Sweep from side to side ( start low and work toward the rear of the area on fire). If the extinguisher is too heavy to carry then drag it. Dry Chem extinguishers are non toxic but very irritating to the nose and lungs, wear a mask when dealing with the clean up. Keep multiple extinguishers on every floor of your home and in your car.

Kitchen fires are the most common, stovetop fires ( grease , pot on fire ) can be smothered with a tight fitting lid ,then use oven mitts and potholders to calmly walk it outside. Oven fires can be easily controlled in the early stages. First turn off the heat , prepare the extinguisher , put oven mitts on, stand off to the side as to avoid the burst of superheated air that will rush out when you open the oven. Fresh oxygen may flare up the fire inside so be careful.

An oven is pretty much a fireproof box but you should check all surrounding cabinetry for hidden fire.Having a long garden hose prepared to water down your own space and those close to you is a good idea.Ideally you should be able to reach your entire property. If you are in an apartment , you can buy a

faucet -to- hose adapter for a couple of dollars. Also learn the locations of " House Lines" in a high rise.These are 75 to 100 foot long fire hoses stationed in glass cabinets, remember to ALWAYS pull the line out and clear all kinks from the line BEFORE turning the water on.Identify NOW where all of the gas/propane / electrical main switches are in and around your home, be prepared to shut off yours' as well as your neighbor's lines in case of an emergency. If you are caught in a dwelling on fire,stay calm, stay low , if you can't see wear you are going then follow a wall by touch to a safer zone. Don't overlook the basics here - keep fresh batteries in smoke detectors , plan and practice a family evacuation.Smoke mixed with panic kills far more people than Fire herself does.


Heating when the grid is down is no small task , it can be very dangerous from a variety of angles.The first key is insulation. Dead air space is the most effective concept to hold in mind. Layers of blankets on the floor above you , layers of blankets over doorways , clothes and newspaper crumpled and stuffed into window

spaces then covered with plastic sheeting and duct tape ( also seal up electric outlets). Consider heating a small space such as one room or even a tent within a room. Sleeping bags and layered clothing go a long way here.Often small lamps ( kerosene , propane ) and candles give off a significant amount of heat in a confined space but beware of carbon monoxide poisoning as it is odorless and lethal.

Alcohol ( 90 or 70% rubbing alcohol , 180 proof Grain liquor , denatured alcohol , methanol and ethanol ) will not create Carbon Monoxide when burned in stoves, zippo lighters , hurricane lamps etc. It does not burn as brightly but it isclean burning and when spilled will evaporate without a trace residue. This a tremendous advantage over petroleum based fuels. In a lamp , 12 oz of alcohol will burn for over 24 hours with a wick that is kept low. Alcohol is very safeand easy to store and transport , it burns at around 1400 BTUs . It is a little bulkier ( energy output by volume ) than petro based fuels but the safety factor far outweighs this in my mind.

Kerosene heaters are cheap , common and powerful . Stocking up on the heaters , latex gloves , siphons and fuel is a viable option for short and mid term survival heating. They are easy to come by on Craig's List and Freecycle forlittle or no money. There are two main types 1.) is the cylindrical style and 2.) is the rectangular style. Both perform about the same. The big difference is the removable fuel tank in the rectangular type.

This tank can be removed while the heater is still working and quickly refilled with kerosene in a remote space ( like a garage or backyard) . This advantage is important because Kerosene stinks and is ALWAYS messy when refilling. Use gloves and a siphon , stock up on fuel cans. Never light any Kerosene heater indoors, always light it outsideand let it burn for a few minutes before bringing it in.One gallon of kerosene will burn for 24hours on a low - medium heat setting.

Propane heaters and grills are also solid options. Remember to plan ahead for fuel use ( and to use as barter items).You may want to memorize where propane cylinders are sold in your area , as well as pay attention to what sorts of locks are used to secure them. Bolt cutters are a part of my survival stash.

Small wood stoves ( MilSpec and camping type) can be fitted to use an exhaust vent from a water heater or home heating unit as a temporary chimney. Eventually there will be build up of residue on the interior of the pipe, it will build up much faster with the burning of soft wood ( Pine and conifers) as opposed to hard wood (Oak , Cherry , Walnut). Wood is not an efficient way to heat your space long term but it does allow for your fuel source to be replenished in a post grid scenario. Be aware of your signature in scent ( smoke and cooking food) lest you attract unwanted visitors.

Solar ovens and solar stills are good options to have on hand . A quality solar oven can bake bread and cook a wide variety of foods. Solar showers are a good way to heat water for hygienic purposes, however the solar options are dependant on a steady supply of sunlight and so are not completely reliable.

Alcohol stoves are ideal for simply boiling water , one small soda can stove with 1 - 2 oz of fuel will bring 2 cups of water to a rolling boil in less than 2 minutes. We will teach how to make them , but this website is a terrific resource to do more research on your own:­



Hazardous materials are those that may cause damage to life ( DNA ) at the present or in the future. Carcinogenic, mutagenic, teratogenic, central nervous system(neuro)/ liver/ kidney toxins can have wide ranging impact on our homeostasis. Ionizing radiation ( ALPHA/BETA/GAMMA), chemical and microbiological contamination of our physical space ( to include air /water/ food ) can cause slow CHRONIC or fast, high dose ACUTE exposures.The four primary routes of exposure are1. Respiratory - breathing it 2. Absorption - flesh contact into the bloodstream 3. Ingestion - swallowed 4. injected - stabs and jabs


HAZMAT gear for a family on a shoestring budget:

Remember that there is no magic to this, you just need to create a water and airtight fit around your body in order to deal with most HAZMAT troubles.

Also, most HAZMAT emergencies are very temporary, wind and water will dissipate most of the offending contaminates in relatively short order. Until then though, EVERY INVISIBLE DUST PARTICLE AND DROP OF WATER EMBODIES YOUR MORTAL ENEMY

*Duct tape -The role of a good quality duct tape cannot be overstated here, especially if you are patching together your own suit in order to act within a contaminated area. The cheaper the tape the less reliable it will be. Air and water tight is the key here. Gloves, boots and seams.

*Gloves -They need only be water proof and bio/chemical resistant. Most latex and nitrile gloves will give adequate performance and can be worn under outergloves that give more mechanical protection. Latex/nitrile gloves are most functional and least cumbersome when they are worn one size down, for example if you think you wear a large, then try a medium. More tactile sensitivity and better grip come with this practice.

*Boots - Again, water tight and bio/chem resistant. Overboots are best. Simple pull on boots made of rubber will do for most incidents.

*Coveralls –

1. TYVEK / Nomex / PBI are near perfect choices for most applications. They can be found at first responder stores and online for as little as $7.

2. A second choice here is the most expensive chemical suit from Home Depot/Lowes. Costing about $15, it is a smart choice for many people.

3. A third but still viable selection would be a rain suit that you seal VERY WELL with duct tape.

*Masks -

1. Military specification aka MILSPEC whole face gas masks are ideal. These are commonly found with NATO standard threaded filters to allow interoperability. There are different MILSPECs for different nation states. US, European, Russian and Israeli are the most common and reliable as a general rule. Russian and Israeli masks are also made for civilians at a very low cost, the tradeoff being practical tactical advantages such as hydration tubes, rifle compatibility, voice boxes. Often found at gun shows, Army/Navy stores and through many online purveyors.

2. Second to MILSPEC whole face masks are chemical spray masks from Home Depot/Lowes, et al. These are the highest in price and quality available at these stores today ( $ 50-60 ). They do not give your eyes the protection that a whole face mask does so chemical spray goggles are also needed. One distinct advantage is the fact that if you choose to, you can go into a store RIGHT NOW and obtain them and their replacement filters.

3. A far distant third choice is an N95 or N100 particle mask, the sort worn just over the mouth and nose. It can trap many airborne pathogens and radioactive dust particles but it's lacking for several reasons. That said they are very cheap, easy to find and much better than nothing.


DECON - Decontamination made as simple and practical as can be in a Grid down or Grid teetering reality. In a space just outside of your safe room/clean zone there should be an intermediate space for cleanup, sort of like a mud room where you can stop and reduce your messiness before tracking it into the house. An individual or object can have the NUKE/CHEM/BIO hazards washed off of them simply by washing off the external suit ( or skin suit if there was no protection for the individual that you wish to help) with a mild bleach/detergent/water solution. The person or object should be standing in a Rubbermaid tub or kiddie pool and be scrubbed by another person who is wearing some level of protective clothing, using a soft bristle brush and rinsed thoroughly. Microorganisms need to have at least 20 minutes of exposure to bleach water in order for them to be killed. The collected waste water should be disposed of away from your home, food and water supplies. Chlorine granules for swimming are ideal for keeping large quantities of bleach on hand. 1 teaspoon of chlorine powder added to 1 gallon of water makes 1 gallon of bleach. Dawn dish liquid is the preferred standard for an expedient detergent.


SHELTER IN PLACE - If there is a major HAZMAT emergency near your home then the Incident Commander of the Fire/Rescue Service may issue the order shelter in place orders, this will most likely be a relatively brief lockdown delivered to you via loud speakers on fire trucks. That said, YOU waiting for someone else's order to act may be a serious lapse in judgment. It is better to be safe and silly looking than sorry and sick. Shut off your WATER, GAS and ELECTRIC utilities right away, especially for natural disasters like hurricanes, earthquakes and tornadoes. Practice this operation in your home before you need it. For the electricity shut down all of the individual breakers before shunting the main circut breaker. As a broad general rule you want to establish a space in your home/building that is centered and as low as you can go with solid support overtop of your family. Often this will be a basement. Pick a room that will suit your family needs the best. If possible consider a room with a bathroom attached.When creating a space that is insulated from NCB risks there are some very important considerations to ACT ON ahead of time:

FOOD AND WATER - enough to last you for at least three days, 1 gallon per person per day is a sound standard. Two weeks is far more intelligent a plan. Also truly vital medications.

COMMUNICATION AND LIGHT - a radio / flashlight preferably one of the crank operated models. Keeping a police/fire/NOAA scanner is smart, smartphone apps are great for this too. Many affordable shortwave radios can pick up a wide range of international communications which can be a great way to stay informed. Cell phone backup battery chargers are easy to come by these days for little money.

SECURITY - there are no true substitutes for firearms if you want the ability to say "No!" to those who may wish to take ALL that you have to give.

AIR CONTROL - You must keep all windows and doors sealed. Lock them and if your instinct guides you to, reinforce them

Precut sheets of 3 mil plastic sheeting should be labeled by writing the window/door placement on a peice of duct tape afixed to them. This will minimize confusion and help to streamline the process. Wet towels can be rolled up an stuffed under doors to prevent airflow. Be sure to shut off any HVAC system and seal the ducts. Again you cannot have too much quality duct tape. As far as oxygen levels for breathing goes, the general rule for an average room : 10 square feet of floor space (2'x5') provides 5 hours of relaxed breathing time. In cold weather add tightly crumpled newspaper and lightweight fabrics into the dead airspace to lock in heat.

SANITATION - Basic hygiene must be maintained in order to fight off diseases that are common to our species. Alcohol in different forms such as 70-90% isopropyl, denatured, ethanol, etc are excellent to have on hand for disinfecting skin and surfaces but also as a cooking and heating fuel that WILL NOT CAUSE CARBON MONOXIDE POISONING when used in small spaces.

Baby wipes are cheap and have a long shelf life. The brushing of teeth ought not be overlooked. Keeping bleach on hand is a good thing but beware of the fumes in tight spaces. Keep socks and underwear dry, feet and moist body areas wiped clean. Sores and skin infections can tear into you quickly.

Feces and urine management is crucial to any shelter in place planning. If your Grid's sewage system is intact then use your toilet normally. If the sewage system was damaged or is failing due to lack of humans on the job then you must not use it. You should consider opening the "cleanout trap" in the basement and stuffing clothes and blankets into the sewage line to prevent a backup of other people's dookie into your home through your sink drains. This measure can be easily undone after the event.If there is no water supply coming from the Grid, then you can:

1. Shut off your water line at the main tap coming into your house, this prevents problems when the service is restored.

2. If your toilet is intact then wipe out the bowl with a disinfectant, line the bowl with garbage bag or small trash can bag. Double up to aviod spills.

If your toilet is not intact or is otherwise unreachable then use a camping potty or 5 gallon bucket with a simple seat. Again use the bags as liners. Use the bags a few times but don't let them get too heavy. Lids are important here.

3. Sprinkle thoroughly with but neatly with powered lime ( found in garden supply retailers ) or Borax. Lime is caustic and can cause minor skin burns or irritations so be mindful of your dusting. Lime and Borax will go a very long way to keeping microbe spores in check and reducing odor buildup.

4. Place used potty bag into a trashcan with a tight fitting lid. This should be lined with at least one 3mil contractor grade trash bag. Sprinkle it with lime or Borax too as the bags pile up.

5. Depending on the length of time that the Grid is down, you may have to place these bags outside of your home. Beware of water and food proximity also consider animals ripping into them ( because they will if they can).



For nuclear emergencies the "hot" particles will fall out of the sky within a few to several hours and so after the maximum amount of air in your airtight shelter has been used ( your body will tell you ) then open a ventalation port or two near the top of your safe room. Trace amounts may make it in but the odds are in your favor at this point. Keep an eye on the news. A nuclear attack will unlikely come out of the blue from an enemy nation. Such an attack would likely be preceded by a deteriorating political situation. A war with conventional weapons between nations that both have nuclear weapons, if not ended swiftly, may escalate towards nuclear war and even limited nuclear strikes in one region carry the likelihood to escalate towards an all-out nuclear war elsewhere.

However, an unconventional nuclear attack by terrorists could come without warning. Given the lack of a credible sovereign enemy, such attacks are unlikely to escalate to a full nuclear exchange. Many countries have a rating system to denote the imminence of attack.

In the USA and Canada, for example, you should know the DEFCON (DEFense CONdition) level:

DEFCON 5. Normal peacetime readiness

DEFCON 4. Normal increased readiness, increased intelligence and national security measures. (Cold War.)

DEFCON 3. Increased force readiness above normal, American radio call-signs are changed to classified call-signs. Air Force ready to mobilize in less than 15min.

DEFCON 2. Increase in force readiness, just below maximum. All forces ready to mobilize and deploy within 6hrs. (Declared only once during the Cuban Missile Crisis.)

DEFCON 1. Maximum force readiness; the use of nuclear weapons has been authorized. This has never been used for the national condition.

Fusion (H-Bombs), using the incredible heat of a fission bomb 'spark plug', compress and heat deuterium and tritium (isotopes of hydrogen) which fuse, releasing immense amounts of energy.

Fusion weapons are also known as thermonuclear weapons since high temperatures are required to fuse deuterium and tritium.

EMP Weapons. A nuclear weapon detonated at a very high altitude will generate an electromagnetic pulse so powerful that it can destroy electronic and electrical devices. Placing radios, flashlights in a SEALED metal container (a "Faraday cage") may protect from EMP, providing the items being protected are not in contact with the enclosure. The metal shield must surround the protected item completely - and it helps if it is grounded. The items to be protected should be insulated with plastic or cloth from the conductive shell, since the EMP field washing over the shield can still induce voltages in solid state circuit boards. One method is to wrap a cardboard box with copper, or aluminum foil. Place the item in there and plug the device into the ground. You may also use cookie tins and metal bulk ammo cans.

Seek shelter immediately. Aside from the geopolitical warning signs, your first warnings of an imminent nuclear attack will most likely be an alarm or warning signal, if not it will be the blast itself. The bright light from a detonation of a nuclear weapon can be seen tens of miles away from ground zero. If within the vicinity of the blast (or ground zero), your chances of survival are virtually nonexistent unless you are in a shelter that provides a very (VERY) good blast protection. If you are a few miles out, you will have about 10-15 seconds until the heat wave hits you, and maybe 20-30 seconds until the shockwave does. Under no circumstances should you look directly at the fireball. On a clear day, this can cause temporary blindness at very large distances. If you can't find shelter, seek a depressed area nearby and lay face down, exposing as little skin as possible. If there is no shelter of this kind, dig as fast as possible. Even around 5 miles you will suffer third degree thermal-burns; still at 20 miles the heat can burn the skin off your body. The wind itself will peak at around 600mph and will level anything or anybody caught in the open. Failing the above options, get indoors , this will, at least, provide some protection against radiation. Stay well away from any windows, preferably in a room without one; even if the building does not suffer substantial damage, a nuclear explosion will blow out windows at enormous distances.

Remember: it's not the initial blast that creates the high death toll; it's radiation exposure.

There are two threats of radiation:

Initial (prompt) radiation. This is radiation released at the moment of detonation, and it is short-lived and travels short distances. With the large yields of modern nuclear weapons, it is thought that this will kill few who would not be killed by the blast or heat at the same distance. Residual radiation. Known as radiation fallout. If the detonation was a surface blast or the fireball hits the earth, large amounts of fallout occurs. The dust and debris kicked into the atmosphere rains down, bringing with it dangerous amounts of radiation. The fallout may rain down as contaminated black soot known as "black rain," which is very fatal and may be of extreme temperature. Fallout will contaminate anything it touches. Once you have survived the blast and the initial radiation (for now at least since radiation symptoms have an incubation period), you must find protection against the burning black soot.

Know the types of radiation particles:

1.Alpha particles: They will be fatal if ingested or inhaled. Standard clothing will help protect you from them, they are weak.

2. Beta particles: These are faster than Alpha particles and can penetrate further. They will travel for up to 10 yards before they are absorbed into the atmosphere. Exposure to beta particles is not fatal unless exposed for prolonged periods; which may cause "Beta burns," almost like painful sunburn. They pose a serious threat, however, to the eyes, should they be exposed for a prolonged period. Once again this is harmful if ingested or inhaled, and clothing will help prevent Beta burns.

3. Gamma Rays. Gamma Rays are the deadliest. They can travel for nearly a mile in the air and penetrate just about any kind of shielding.

Therefore gamma radiation will cause severe damage to the internal organs even as an external source. Sufficient shielding will be required.

A shelter's PF against radiation will tell you how many times less a person inside the shelter will receive radiation compared to open space. For example, RPF 300means that you will receive 300 times less radiation in the shelter than in the open. Avoid exposure to Gamma radiation. Try not to spend more than 5 minutes exposed. Begin reinforcing your shelter from the inside by stacking dirt around the walls or anything else you can find. If in a trench, then create a roof, but only if materials are nearby; don't expose yourself when not necessary. 3+ mil plastic sheeting or a tent will help stop fallout debris from piling on you,

though it will not stop Gamma rays. It is impossible to completely shield from all radiation. It can only be reduced to a tolerable level. DO NOT GET OUT FOR AT LEAST 48 HOURS.Use the following to help you determine the amount of material you'll need for your shelter to reduce radiation penetration to 1/1000:

Steel: 0.7 feet Rock: 2-3 ft Concrete: 2.2 ft Wood: 8.8 ft Soil: 3.3 ft Ice: 6.6 ft Snow: 20-22 ft Plan on staying in your shelter for a minimum of 200 hours (8-9 days). If these materials are not at hand then use every bit of mass you can get to cover the top and sides of your shelter.

Stacks of books, heavy furniture, dirt. The more mass the better. Also stock up on KI or K3 to fill your thyroid gland with iodine and help to stave off radiation sickness.


Saferoom techniques -

No one of us has exactly the same configurations in our homes.So bear in mind that these are principles to consider and not hard fast rules to follow.

* Establish a predetermined fallback point in case of home invasion, drill it into the heads of those that you love.

* If the Grid is up it is a great idea to have a charged cellphone ( disposable ) with a list of important phone numbers nearby.

* Find the spot in your home that gives you the best Ballistic/Nuclear/Natural disaster insulation to begin with and then build a plan from there.

A corner of your basement? Against a firewall ( not a party wall)? Root cellar? Do you have a storage unit in an apartment building? Do you rent a storage unit from a commercial facility ( they are very secure)? Build on your ballistic insulation from there.

* Stash food , water, heat, LED flashlights, medicine, guns and ammo, hygiene and waste disposal there ahead of time. At least 2 weeks is a minimum for a nuke attack. That is a good time frame to work with. If the Grid will be going back up it should do that within that time frame. And outlasting the predators outside is the main goal.


Mental barriers:

Avoidance - Preventing a problem before it starts. Staying sharp and mentally agile. Keep yourself light on your feet and quick to react. SunTzu says in the Art of War " The most powerful generals are those that win wars without fighting them."

Camouflage - To disguise something to blend in with the surrounding environment.

Subterfuge - Making others think one thing when the truth is another. Marking boxes of food as "Xmas decorations" in your basement, hiding cans and bottles in the 5 inches of open space underneath your kitchen cabinets. Marking your living space as abandoned , infested , contaminated or looted.

Stealth - Light, smell and sound discipline. Not being noticed is an art. Ninjitsu has many mental principles that can be applied here. If you are hiding, do not focus your attention on the would be predator as this will more often than not have him feel you and look directly at you.


Early warning signals:

The moment of realization is the key for your next action. Have in in your mind and body's history what your next action will be.

*Rat trap/Fishing line tripwires and door alarms are super simple to rig up and can be set onto any surface, window and door.

Just make sure the trap is secured and in a spot to be heard, sound can be augmented by use of a bell or glass being attached to the trap's bar.

*Carpet tack strips facing up can cut into creeping predators or at least stick into their shoes and trigger a tripwire nearby.

*Broken glass spread on the ground near windows and doors

*Solar powered motion activated flood lights placed in strategic spots


Physical barriers:

Have guns and know how to use them. There are no substitutes.

Ballistic insulation - Bullets are fired from a wide range of guns . The most common from least to greatest for penetration is as follows:

22cal., 38 cal., 9mm, 40 cal., 45cal. for handguns , then buck shot and slug from a shotgun, 223 and 762 rounds from AR and AK battle rifle platforms.

Refrigerators, floors/ceilings, party walls ( drywall and studs), doors in the house and car doors do not provide good cover, only concealment from fire. The key to stopping a bullet is spreading it's kinetic energy out far, wide and fast. Layers and spaces are what to bear in mind when crafting a safe spot in your space. Staggering the densities is a good idea. This enables the bullet to expand and dissipate the kinetic energy faster thus slowing it to a stop. For example:

* Layers of 3/4 inch wood, 1/4 or 1/2 inch metal, 3/4 inch wood with small gaps between them

* Sand bags, paper & plastic grocery bags or pillow cases filled with rocks and dirt

* Encyclopedias, phone books and magazines bound by duct tape in stacks.Always so that the bullet will go through cover to cover, not up a few pages and out through the book's spine. Distribution of energy.

* Wooden pallets that have top and bottom surfaces stood up on end and filled with columns of brick in contractor grade trash bags

* Furniture such dressers, buffets and file cabinets that get packed to the gills with books and metal objects like barbell weights and cast iron pans

* Double thick wall of milk crates filled with canned food ( double use )

Door reinforcement - A section of 2x4 wood that is notched at one end to fit under a doorknob and cut at an angle on the other end to lie flat on the floor. Another section of 2x4 should be a foot or so long and be NAILED into the floor as a brace for the first 2x4. Use long heavy nails, the more you distribute the force the more force you can resist. If you must secure a door on a concrete, ceramic or marble tile floor consider the $18 Door Security Bar from Home Depot as it has a nonslip grip foot and is made of steel. 3/4 inch plywood should be used to cover any glass window in the door itself. It is best to have a heavy steel door on a heavy steel frame that is secured deep into concrete to begin with but we must make do with what we have in a pinch.

Window reinforcement - duct tape windows in an X and Square pattern to reduce shattering and maintain control over temperature flux. Consider having 3/4 inch plywood precut for each window you wish to secure, predrill holes for nailing them into your window sashes. Have each one labeled for it's own window so that it will be smoother running as the fan and feces meet. It is best done inside and out with a layer of steel in between. That said , learn make do with your limited resources. Also, long nails into predrilled holes on the inside of the window frame will make them harder to open.


Non traditional weaponry -

Pesticides - Yes it is poison, yes it will harm them, no you ought not lose any sleep over it. Beware that in a tight space it can work against you unless you are wearing an NCB mask or high quality chem spray mask from Home Depot. Watch your eyes as you aim for their's.

Wasp/hornet spray $3 - If it says it shoots up to 27 feet, you can count on 18 feet. If it says 12 , bank on 8. Home Depot.

Bug Bombs/Foggers $10 for a three pack - Like the sort used for flea and roach infestation, best thrown into another room or hallway or dropped onto a lower floor or staircase. Its best to click and throw a few of them into a space just before the predators enter it so the space is well fumagated. Seal your self/selves off as best as you can. Home Depot. Gopher bombs $10 for a four pack - Designed to kill smaller mammals in tunnels, these are horrible neurotoxins that ought to be used only in an extreme situation. Also they must have their fuses lit and pose a certain level of fire hazard to the structure that you are in. Tractor Supply Store/Agway.

Riot / Bear pepper spray - Again just like the sprays listed above these can work against you unless you have a good NCB mask on. Don't waste your time with keychain sprays as they have failed more people than are left alive to acount for it.

Fire extinguisher - non toxic but very hard to breathe it in, also dual use. Not a solid option but better than nothing.

Paintball gun - Loaded with rubber bullets is even better than paint . Pepperballs are available too. The key here is to have a paintball gun that is fully charged with air and the pressure control turned way up. A few rounds to the face will blind and deter just about anyone.

Knife on a Stick - AKA a spear. Use a full tang knife ( where the blade and handle are one solid metal piece) and attach it to a broom or mop handle with duct tape. This can be made in the kitchen in less than two minutes and may give you the extra reach required to keep a predator away from your body. Remember this is all about keeping a safe distance.


EVACuation -

Always be prepared to walk away from your home. Fire ripping through a house or manditory removal by government order. Be ready to walk.Shut off your WATER, GAS, ELECTRICITY and SEWER before you go if possible.

The FEMA site has truely wonderful checklists for bugging out but no firearms are mentioned, go figure.­

Also, the FILE section of the Survive and Thrive website has several easy to follow lists of lists.In addition this is the recommended A-Z survival kit of this group.

This kit is weights less than 5 pounds and very compact. Easily kept in your car or backpack

a. Leatherman Wave / Gerber Multitool

b. 8" zip ties - 30 ea

c. 3 mil. 55 gal Contractor bags - 2 to 3 ea

d. 3 mil. clear plastic sheet - 8ft x 10ft

e. 550 parachord - 50 ft (not just any rope)

f. Duct tape - 20 to 30 ft on a flat roll

g. Signal mirror

h. LED flashlight with a switch

i. Unlubricated , unribbed condoms - 3 ea ( water carry and wound seal )

j. Compass - button compass ( with moving face) is preferred to the needle compass

k. Whistle - it is better have a whistle without a ball inside

l. Latex surgical tubing - 6 to 10 ft

m. Clear medium or tall trash bags - 2 to 4 ea

n. Butane Bic lighter 1 ea

o. Strike anywhere matches dipped in wax ( not too thick)

p. Firestarters - fuelsticks or cotton/petrojelly balls in foil - 8 or more ea

q. Magnesium spark stick

r. Gatoraid / electrolyte powder

s. Medium sized fishing hooks 10 ea

t. Small bottle of chlorine powder

u. Bandana, large - 1 ea

v. Hoop needle, large - 1 ea

w. Travel sized baby wipes - 1 pack

x. Gauze pads - 2 ea

y. Powerbars - 3 to 6 ea

z. Triple antibiotic salve / Neosporin

user 4307479
Philadelphia, PA
Post #: 24
WOW!! This is amazing and extremely valuable to all.

AND This is a TON of work. Look at all this information rolled into one file. Thank you very much Fernando. I was very upset to miss this meeting and this helps to patch the wounds a bit.

A former member
Post #: 4,860
Very impressive work. You are a patriot for generously sharing it with the community.
Charles J.
user 14243567
Poway, CA
Post #: 263
Echoing Neal's sentiment - thanks from out here in San Diego as well. smile
A former member
Post #: 1
A teacher, or the prison, more and more ares are considering the legal use of cell phone jammers, it has been a necessity of our daily life, I have got one phone jammer for my family. so if you want to get one, you can go and visit it for more details. share with you!
A former member
Post #: 2
In the movies we can often see that some advanced technology are used to protect the important information and prevent it from being lost or people who aiming to get it. Seen from another point we can regard such kind of action as the security method for both people and the information and this is indeed. Right here you will know the desktop cell phone WiFi jammer can also be your best guard and have a good beginning here.When being serious disturbed because of the application of some devices, no doubt another kind of device that can help to conquer the problem and help you to gain the better condition is need and must be used. So now to gain the better condition, various kinds of signal blockers are invented and come into the market to create quality change for people. Such as the cell phone jammers, GPS jammer, WiFi jammers, video jammers and so many other types of jammer products. And what quality changes can they bring you? Then you should be ready to see the following content.
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