Getting ready for… Wapta Icefield trip... Glacier travel basics

  • January 29, 2014 · 6:30 PM
  • This location is shown only to members

                        Glacier travel basics

 

“The more you know, the less you need!” – Yves Chouinard … or carry  :)

These three sessions are for Wapta Icefield trip participants (the go list and the waiting list)! If somehow you cannot make it or you know already this information please RSVP “No” and I will try to fill your spot with somebody else.

Important Notice:

This event is a practice/learning session and not a course by a qualified instructor. As I am not an expert, I encourage you to take courses by qualified instructors before embarking on trips of your own.

 

Location: TBD

Date: January 29th, 2013 - 6:30 PM

 

#1.  Glacier travel  basics

- Glacier morphology

- Choosing a safe route (recognize and avoid hazards)

- Bad weather navigation procedures

- Rope use for glaciers (rope up, rope management, etc.)

- Movement on snow and ice

Equipment for glaciers

- Knots

#2. Crevasse rescue  basics  – (“dry” session)

#3. Glacier travel and crevasse rescue outdoor practice

In mountaineering and special when you travel on glaciers, your safety and life may depend on your partners. Lots of practice, training, proper understanding of the equipment and procedures will get you and your partners up to the top and back to the car safe and sound!


Items required for all sessions (this will be your crevasse rescue kit too). 

!!! We will not require the ice screw on the indoor sessions!

- 2*6mm cord in 160cm lengths ( to make 60cm prussik loops)

- 1*6mm cord in 200cm length (to make an 80cm prussik loop)

- 1*6mm in 5m length

*** look for the 6mm Mammut cord at MEC – I recommend the yellow and green types as they are softer and will provide a better grip. The red cord is stiffer. Also you may find useful to get the prussiks in two different colors (one color for the 160cm and one color
for the 200cm).

-  Climbing harness

-  1 pear shape (Munter) carabiner or autolocking carabiner

-  3 “D” shape locking carabiners

- 2 non-locking carabiners

- 1 * 60cm  long nylon sling (18mm)

- 2*30 cm long nylon slings (18mm)

- 1*22cm ice screw (the ones with the cranking handles – Petzl Charlet lasser speed )

***  also you may find useful to get the slings in two different colors (one color for the 60cm and one color for the 30cm)



Join or login to comment.

  • Mike S.

    I don't actually pay attention to things, has the location been sent out already?

    January 25, 2014

    • Mike S.

      Don't tell me how to live my life.

      1 · January 27, 2014

    • Kris

      Wow! Far away from me this thought... But I got your point.

      January 28, 2014

  • A former member
    A former member

    When is the Wapta Icefield? Thanks!

    January 27, 2014

    • A former member
      A former member

      In June I will be in Valencia-Barcelona, ​​but I can go to learn but not going to go in June? thanks!

      January 27, 2014

    • Kris

      Sorry Miquel but the meetup is full. I've been already asked the same question by some other hikers and unfortunately I had to turn them down

      January 28, 2014

  • Mike S.

    Thanks for the Email Veronica! I just wanted to make sure everyone had it - I've been there a few times before.

    1 · January 26, 2014

  • Veronica

    Forgot to mention I have a rope that I can bring.

    1 · January 20, 2014

    • Kris

      Sounds good. You can bring it along.

      January 20, 2014

  • Andy D.

    So much to do, so little time.

    January 20, 2014

    • Kris

      Next time Andy :) !

      1 · January 20, 2014

  • Mike S.

    Luckily, I don't work this day :D

    January 7, 2014

    • Kris

      Sorry Mike I completly forgot about your odd work schedule!

      January 7, 2014

  • Veronica

    Hi Cris or Mike, Can you confirm the details of the sling? I'm finding they range from 10mm-18mm (@ MEC for the 60cm). Is knotting our own webbing acceptable as well or should be find them pre-made?

    January 7, 2014

    • Mike S.

      a water knot on a piece of webbing is definitely acceptable, a pre-sewn sling is a bit tidier and a bit stronger (no strength loss from the knot)

      January 7, 2014

    • Mike S.

      Pre-Sewn sling is also quicker (no need to tie the water knot when you need a sling... you should never leave knots in any piece of rope, webbing etc)

      January 7, 2014

  • Kris

    I am planning to go over the “classic way” of roping up for the glacier travel (big crevasses, heavy pack, and already made prussiks/slings), and then we will go over some other variations (use of long cord/webbing to build prussiks and slings).
    Do not buy anything yet if you are not sure about it, you will decide after this session. The only items to bring are the harness and the pear shape carabineer. If you already bought or have the other items on the list just bring them along.

    January 7, 2014

  • Kris

    18 mm is good. Bring only the prussiks for this sesion and then based on what we will do you can decide to buy the slings or just a webbing that you can knot.

    January 7, 2014

7 went

  • Kris
    Gold Member, Assistant Organizer
    Event Host
  • Veronica
    Gold Member, AST 1, Assistant Organizer
  • Tonia
    Gold Member, AST 1, Special Member Forever!
  • Jessica C.
    Platinum Member, AST 1, Special Member, Cookie Member, Co-Organizer
  • Oscar M
    Platinum Member, Co-Organizer
  • Mike S.
    Platinum Member, AST 1,
  • Mike R.
    Gold Member, AST 1

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