Mount Sneffels - North Face Direct!

Join us to climb Mount Sneffels via the Direct North Buttress.  The North Face of Mount Sneffels is one of the most famous and beautiful views in Colorado.  The climbing is supposed to be fun and spectacular, and the approach is through a gorgeous basin.  I have been wanting to do this route for years so lets make it happen!

We will meet on Friday night, August 9th and drive to the trailhead. Saturday, we will backpack up beautiful Blaine Basin and camp below the North Face. Sunday, we will get up early, climb the North Face, descend back to base camp, backpack out and drive home.

The North Face involves the ascent of a low angle snowfield, multiple pitches of 5.6 climbing, and then scrambling up class 4-5.0 ridges.  The descent appears to be easy hiking.

As for the rope teams, you are welcome to lead or follow. If you want to lead you need to be a solid alpine trad 5.6 climber. If you want to follow, you need to have experience following on trad, and be in great shape.  Post if you want to lead or follow. We can figure out the climbing teams as the trip gets closer, and also when we meet and see exactly who is going.

Here is some beta:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/north-buttress/107508316

http://www.summitpost.org/north-face-direct/213886

Follower Mandatory Gear List:

- maybe an ice axe or at least some hiking poles?

- rock climbing shoes

- harness

- belay device

- 2 large locking biners

- 2 normal biners

- rappel/belay glove

- helmet

- prusik slings ( Prusik slings are a 10 foot length and 6 foot length of 6 mm climbing cord. We will show you how to make the slings. Also bring a 3 foot length of 6 mm climbing cord. This can be used as a rappel backup.)

- be ready for any kind of weather

* Also bring some crocs or sandals for the stream crossings

 

East Dallas Creek Trailhead Directions:

Go West on highway 62 for 4.8 miles from the 550 and 62 junction in Ridgway.  Ridgway is 26 miles south of Montrose and 11 miles north of Ouray.  Turn south on Ouray County 7 (East Dallas Creek Road) and measure from this point.  Go south on 7 (dirt), stay left at 0.3 mile, right at 2.0 mile, and enter the National Forest at 7.2 miles.  Stay right and cross East Dallas Creek at 8.2 miles.  Take the middle of three forks at 8.8 miles and reach the trailhead after 9.0 miles.  There is supposed to be good camping at the trailhead, so just camp there and meet us in the morning.

http://www.summitpost.org/snake-couloir/794418

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/mount-sneffels/105745939

Saturday Morning Meet:

Lets meet at the East Dallas Creek Trailhead at 9:00 AM on Saturday morning.  We can see who is going, decide on backpack and climbing gear, and pack our backpacks.  The backpack is only 3-4 miles so we can leisurely walk in.

 

Feel free to call me at[masked] if something comes up.

Lets go climb that beautiful face!

Rom

 

By participating in this event you agree to the following Release of Liability:

http://www.meetup.com/Spectacular-Adventures/pages/Spectacular_Adventures_Release_of_Liability/

 

 

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  • Rom M.

    Well we had a great time on Mount Sneffels. We backpacked into Blaine Basin on Saturday morning and then dove into our tents when the afternoon rains started. We peeked out of our tents after the deluge and to our astonishment saw that Sneffels and the surrounding high peaks were white, blanketed with snow! So Sunday we ended up hiking up Sneffels on a class 2 route and joining the 14er hordes to the top. The views were incredible and made for a happy day. Thanks to everyone for all the laughs and a fun trip!

    August 13, 2013

  • shawn

    As of now I am leaving broomfield a little after 4 and going through the I70 park and ride at 5. I have two seats left if anyone wants to jump in.

    August 9, 2013

  • Rom M.

    Okay I just posted directions to the East Dallas Creek trailhead in the Trip Description. Just camp at the trailhead Friday night, and meet us in the morning at 9:00 AM.

    August 8, 2013

  • Dave P.

    Hey guys, I'm interested in this, but not sure if I'm getting in a little over my head. I just moved here from NY, and was leading 5.9 trad at the gunks when I left. Not as worried about the climbing as I am the altitude, hiked up mt Audubon this past weekend (13.2k ft), and didnt get sick or anything, but was moving pretty slow at the top, although I actually ended up finishing faster than the time in the book, in the end. I'm definitely the cautious type, spoke to a couple other people and they said to just do it.

    I've also been hiking/climbing/mountaineering for a while, so I'm not new to mountains or alpine weather or anything.

    Anyhow, let me know what you guys think. I'll drive from Boulder if anyone needs a ride, and I have double 70m ropes, which will be perfect for this trip.

    Thanks,
    Dave

    August 8, 2013

    • Rom M.

      Dave, if you can lead 5.9 trad and have some alpine experience then you are definitely ready for this trip. Come join us. I think it will be no problem for you. And bring those sweet double 70m ropes!

      August 8, 2013

  • Tom

    I plan to me you all at the trail head on Friday night.

    August 8, 2013

    • Tom

      I plan to meet you all at the trailhead Friday night. That makes more sense I think. :=}

      August 8, 2013

  • shawn

    So my current plan is to leave work (in Broomfield) at 4 if anyone wants to ride with me we can meet at my office or I can drop by somewhere. I can carry 4 people including myself.

    August 7, 2013

    • chris u.

      Hi Shawn. Could I get a ride with you. I'll split gas and driving also. Shoot me a text please[masked] thanks.

      August 8, 2013

  • chris u.

    Hi Rom. I would love to go. I'll do some leading. Does anyone have room for me in there car?

    August 7, 2013

  • Rom M.

    If everybody wants to leave at different times then we can just meet at the trailhead on Saturday morning. There is supposed to be good camping at the trailhead. I will post directions to the East Dallas Creek Road/Blaine Basin/Blue Lakes Trailhead tomorrow. The backpack into Blaine Basin is only 3-4 miles so we can get up late on Saturday morning and leisurely backpack in.

    August 7, 2013

  • Jen

    Rom, I have a water filter. I'm going to be staying the week down there and I think I may be leaving from Lakewood after 5:30. Depends on others at work.

    August 7, 2013

  • Rom M.

    Ropes:
    If any of the followers have a rope then please bring it. We can have the leaders climb with double ropes and then be able to more easily belay multiple followers. Shawn:
    Do you have a guide belay device? Its the kind with a hole where you put a biner and then can belay two ropes simultaneously.

    August 6, 2013

    • Rom M.

      I have a 60m 9.5mm rope. So lets use Carolyn's 60m doubles for one rope team, and then your 70m 9.2 mm and my 60m 9.5mm rope for the other rope team.

      August 7, 2013

    • Jen

      i have a 70m

      August 7, 2013

  • Rom M.

    The prusik is slower and the follower self belays up the fixed line. Both work fine. The trail line might be a little more advantageous in the alpine. We can figure this out as we get closer to the trip.

    August 5, 2013

  • Rom M.

    Crocs:
    The beta says that we have to cross a creek a bunch of times. So make sure to bring some crocs or sandals for all of the creek crossings. Snowfield:
    The snowfield below the North Buttress in the beta pictures looks pretty small and low angle. I am thinking that with some hiking poles we will be able to get up it okay. I don't feel like hauling an ice axe or crampons for a small snowfield. Maybe we could bring a few ice axes in the car and then when we see the peak and snowfield on Saturday morning, we could decide whether to bring them. Climbing:
    So far I see Rom and Shawn as rope team leaders. That leaves Carolyn, maybe Anita, Shelby, Chad, and Tom as followers. Here is what we will do. I will take three followers and Shawn can take two. We can have the intermediate followers either climb on a trail line, just behind the other follower, or have them prusik up the fixed line. We have done this many times. The trail line is faster, and all followers are belayed.

    August 5, 2013

  • Rom M.

    Okay it is time to start getting organized for our trip this weekend. One new update is that we are going to bring my girlfriend Anita's two kids on the backpack. They will just do the backpack and then hang out in camp while we do the climb. They are 10 and 12 and are fun, so don't worry. :)

    Carpool:
    Anita, I, and the kids will probably just drive in one car. If you can drive or need a ride then post that to the group. There are some cheap rental car options too, for about $95 for the weekend, so that could also be an option too. Backpack Gear:
    If you have a tent and can share a space, or need a tent spot, then post to the group. We should also coordinate stoves and filters too. Anita and I will bring a Jetboil stove. My filter is broken and I have not replaced it yet, so we will bring some iodine. Friday Night Camp:
    I think we will camp at the Blaine Basin trailhead Friday night. I will look more into that later.

    August 5, 2013

  • Nicole

    Just found out my friends birthday is this weekend

    August 1, 2013

  • shawn

    Presuming I don't get sick again I am down to lead.

    July 30, 2013

  • Shelby B.

    This looks awesome! I'm stoked!

    July 30, 2013

  • Bernice

    Would be fantastic, but not sure yet if the timing works. Will check back again when I'm more certain. Is there a cap on the number of participants?

    July 24, 2013

    • Rom M.

      No cap. You can join whenever you feel that you can make it.

      July 25, 2013

  • Nicole

    Would love to do this, but have only done minimal trad/lead following mostly top rope. Never done a summit of this nature. Would this be an appropriate first trip for my level?

    July 24, 2013

    • Rom M.

      Well a little more trad following experience would be better. However, we should have some time on Saturday to hang out at our backpack camp and so we could give you a quick little trad following class.

      July 25, 2013

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