Hometown: San Diego
September 14, 2011
Greetings. I am Dan Malloy (33) and I grew up surfing in the San Diego area (La Jolla & Oceanside). I am not the same pro surfing Dan Malloy who surfs for Patagonia (just weird coincidence). I now live in Albany, OR and surf the coast here.
It is difficult to think of anything other than surf throughout the day. I like fast offshore hollow waves with steep drops that open up for a nice snap off the lip. I'm kind of a stocky dude, so I typically ride a 6'8"X21"X2.75" tri that was shaped by my neighbor here in OR (Robert from Pura Vida surf shop). I also have an 8' Al Merrick M13 that I only use in 12-15'+ surf when I need the paddle and speed. My 11 yo son just started learning on it. He won 1st place in the Otter Rock&Roll surf comp held by the Newport Chapter of Surfrider foundation. My 12 yo son also won best beginner in the same comp. They each took home new wetsuits. :) My girlfriend has been learning on a 9' longboard that I've had for a little while. I did volunteer lifeguarding in Oceanside and am a huge advocate of safety and watching out for the rips. People worry about sharks up here, but it's the water that will eat you if you don't know how to read and respect the ocean.
I think it still to be discovered. I'm still looking for something comparable to my favority home break (Blacks). However, the places I've surfed thus far and enjoyed, are Florence S. Jetty, South Beach, Yaquina Head/Agate, Moolack Beach, Otter Rock, Lincoln City, Pacific City. I haven't made it up to Seaside yet but definitely need to get up there. I don't appreciate localization of spots and believe the ocean should be open to the general public. If there are people who are out there and don't know what they're doing, then I feel an obligation to politely help them figure it out. Seriously, people here don't know what crowded surf is so there is no reason to mistreat others.
My girlfriend mentioned the page and I have a desire to meet fellow adventurists. Oregon provides me with the ability to Mt Bike, Raft, Kayak, Snowboard, Trail Run, etc. We have it all and its great to share with others. It would be cool to also get back into capturing footage. I use to have a GoPro but lost it while jet-skiing up a river. Finally, it would be great to meet people who respect our ocean and want to keep it clean.
Great idea! Just need some action. I hope to meet some surfers.
Whats up Dan...I am from San Diego too..I learned to surf at the Shores but I like North County the best. As for Blacks...I "tried" to surf there but got my ass kicked on a 6-8 ft day. Lets just say I was in the tube (but not surfing it lol)...Anyway good to see another SD person out here in not so sunny Oregon..Go Chargers..
Saturday looks like shit. 20+ south wind 6ft 11 sec. I'll go ride the bike. Let's definitely hook up when there's a decent day. I'd love to go surf....just don't want to do the drive without some feeling of potential.
Moolack gets blown at 10mph. You know.
20+ South is a Seaside day. Right?
excellent statements Dan Malloy. I agree, Moolack is a great spot.