addressalign-toparrow-leftarrow-rightbackbellblockcalendarcameraccwcheckchevron-downchevron-leftchevron-rightchevron-small-downchevron-small-leftchevron-small-rightchevron-small-upchevron-upcircle-with-checkcircle-with-crosscircle-with-pluscrossdots-three-verticaleditemptyheartexporteye-with-lineeyefacebookfolderfullheartglobegmailgooglegroupshelp-with-circleimageimagesinstagramFill 1linklocation-pinm-swarmSearchmailmessagesminusmoremuplabelShape 3 + Rectangle 1ShapeoutlookpersonJoin Group on CardStartprice-ribbonShapeShapeShapeShapeImported LayersImported LayersImported Layersshieldstartickettrashtriangle-downtriangle-uptwitteruserwarningyahoo

Back to all photo albums

Bad Climbing anchors

In this photo:

There are no tags for this photo

Added by Richard B.
on May 13, 2014.
 

Comments

  • Michael D.

    sloppy, poor

    or cancel

  • Richard B.

    This one was soooo close, but ends up being not very sweet at all. Clearly this person had a clue...used two slings, which creates redundancy, two carabiners at the master point..that's good, looks like a "v", not a triangle, but the two master point carabiners are on the outside of the slings, If one upper carabiner or bolt fails,the whole anchor fails, catastrophically.

    or cancel

  • Homam

    If webbing on one anchor fails the whole anchor will fail. they didn't grab the upper part of the triangle and twist it for redundancy before clipping to master point carabiners.. I think they just clipped the pre-twisted slings directly to the carabiners.

    or cancel

  • Paula

    As a novice outdoor (experienced indoor) climber, it would be helpful to see "correct" photos with explanations along with the "incorrect" ones. What does "redundancy" mean and what do you mean by "outside of the slings?"

    or cancel

  • Richard B.

    Hey Paula...I'll happily post some pics of what I consider to be great anchors. My primary point in posting these, though was to get people to say "Whoa! I was climbing on an anchor just like that, and I didn't know it wasn't good….I should learn more so I can be a safer climber". The problem, as I see it, is that people don't realize that they don't know what a good anchor is.

    or cancel

  • Richard B.

    Redundancy: no critical link in the anchor. In a redundant anchor, any one component can fail, and the anchor is still OK. Outside the slings: it may be tough to see, but the two carabiners at the bottom of the anchor are outside the loop of the slings. You can see the tops of the carabiners. If one of the bolts, or one of the upper carabiners were to fail, the entire anchor would fail. The lower carabiners would slide right off the slings. The lower carabiners, rope and climber would all hit the ground. As is often the case, this person was close to getting it right. He/she knew anchors need to be redundant, so there are two slings, and two carabiners at the bottom. Unfortunately, they put it together in a way that didn't make the whole anchor redundant.

    or cancel

  • Paula

    Thanks! I understand redundancy now, and now that I know what a BAD anchor looks like, I'd like to see a GOOD one so I know what that should look like.

    or cancel

Want to comment on this photo?

Sign in, if you're already a member of this group or Join Bay Area Rock Climbing

Move photo

Do you want to move this photo to “__ALBUM_NAME__”?

Are you sure you want to delete this photo?

Yes, I'm Sure

Are you sure you want to delete this comment?

Yes, I'm Sure

Sign up

Meetup members, Log in

By clicking "Sign up" or "Sign up using Facebook", you confirm that you accept our Terms of Service & Privacy Policy