Endless breakers roll in, tinted sea-green at their edges by a low sun in the western sky.
An almost white strand stretches into the distance before it gives way to dramatic cliffs launching colorful para-sailors. A hundred seals and their pups are hauled out on the wind and wave sculpted rocks just below me, while a dozen die-hards frolic in the surf. I am looking out at the Pacific for the first time.

It took me more than fifty years to get here, but I have finally made my way to sunny southern California, and I am sorry it took me so long. On those too infrequent occasions when time and money have coincided, I have always opted for foreign ports, strange languages, new cuisines, and the chance to broaden my cultural horizons. But getting bumped off a flight this past summer, got me a free ticket to anywhere in the continental US, and Beach Boys music started playin' in my head.

Flew to San Diego with my girlfriend Janna, rented wheels, and meticulously planned, for ten days, to go whichever way the wind blew. Didn't plan on staying in the city, but it was gorgeous and kept us around for a couple of days. NYC could really learn a few things about waterfront development from these guys. So accessible, clean, pedestrian and bike friendly, rich with art, historic square riggers, wonderful seafood eateries, lively marinas, and enchanting views. Dive shops sent me a dozen miles north to La Jolla (pronounced La 'Hoy-ah', as I was embarrassed to learn after mispronouncing it repeatedly) where the dramatic coast appeared as described above.

Cruising up the Pacific Coast Highway, scanning for dive flags, got me wet in Laguna Beach.
Newly installed drysuit inflator valve is leaking like crazy, so I disconnect and am happy this guided surf-entry shore dive is only going to 40 feet where the squeeze will be tolerable. Divemaster is pointing to a little purple critter, maybe half an inch, but I don't recognize my favorite nudibranch till he writes it on his slate: Spanish Shawl! I am tickled, having only admired these beasties in photos, never realizing how tiny they are. But the DM is moving off and I'm on him. Suddenly I am in 'Jack and the Magic Beanstalk' land! Towering strands of kelp are undulating in the current, stretching up to the surface. Looking up has an ethereal dream like quality with the sunlight filtering down. Bright orange Garibaldi swim lazily in and out of the fronds, providing a riot of color to this aquarium scene. I'm having a blast finding swim-throughs in the dense kelp, and smiling so broadly I'm in danger of losing my reg. Awesome, dude!

As I have an interest in sustainable architecture, we'd booked a couple of nights at a hay-bale/adobe guest cottage, 'Haylapa', about 40 miles inland, on the cusp of the Anzo Borrego desert. Just amazing that this sere landscape exists just a stone's throw from the lush coast. Here, even the thorns have thorns. Really!

Noticed that we were now not far from the Salton Sea about which I know little. Seems it is the country's largest inland sea, 227 feet below sea level (what are the diving implications, I'm wondering), 20% saltier than the ocean (so how much more lead will I need?), created by accident in 1905 when a dike burst, unleashing the full flow of the Colorado River into this ancient sea-bed! So now it is shimmering before us as we come down out of the high desert, a blue jewel dropped on parched earth. As we enter Salton City, we note that the water appears to have receded greatly from the shore. Derelict boats sit high and dry. None can be seen afloat. Burned out trailers litter the area. And the water is dark brown and scummy. I am rethinking my dive plans. Turns out the place is an ecological disaster area, due in part to the water wars that underlie much of the politics in the western states. To quote from the link, "In the West water flows uphill, toward money." We will not be lingering here.

But Joshua Tree National Park is just north, and I have heard that it is an amazing landscape with herds of wild long-horn sheep. Having never seen a Joshua Tree, or been in the Mojave dessert, I am intrigued. We didn't come across the sheep, they are people-shy I'm told, but the landscape and flora continued to amaze. Huge rock formations of every shape imaginable. Boulders piled up to the sky, many balancing improbably, as though placed there by some giant child amusing himself. Breathtaking views from Keyes Point look down on the Salton Sea, now again attractive from a distance, its fetid water painted sapphire by the reflected sky. We sight across to snow capped mountains and spy Los Angeles is obscured in it's smog. A few natural watering holes were very tempting, but clearly posted 'No Swimming'. "But I was DIVING" say I! But I didn't.

I'm getting dry... back to the coast! Wanted to go down to Mexico and check out Baha, but several people warned us, without prompting, about numerous carjackings of tourists there at gunpoint. And me in my shiny new Impala, and a wallet stuffed with greenbacks. Hmmm. Thinks I feel the wind shiftin' north! Different dive shops had mentioned Santa Catalina island as a premier dive spot, so back up the PCH to catch a catamaran from Long Beach for the trip 20 miles out.

(continued)

(continued)
I lived in the Virgin Islands for fifteen years, and when that ferry approached Avalon I felt like I was back there again. Same crescent shaped natural harbor with craggy peaks jutting up behind, the hills nestled with tile roofed houses, the tropical pastels of the waterfront establishments, the fishing skiffs alongside the tourist boats. Warm sun, cool breeze, though not the turquoise water. Still, I knew right away I was gonna like this place. Most of the island is held by a nature conservatory, so Catalina is sparsely populated and wholly unspoiled. Few cars are permitted, everyone tools around in golf carts. At one intersection, Five Points, it seemed like we were in the middle of a bumper car rally. A herd of wild bison inhabit the hills, allegedly brought over for a movie shoot in 1925. Island was largely built up and promoted by Wriggley, of chewing gum fame. Playground of the stars, back in the day, and still pretty posh today.

Hooked up with Scuba Luv dive shop, rented a 7mm, and got a guided shore dive in a marine park right off the point of the harbor.
More kelp, and I'm like a kid in a candy store. This is so cool. Abundant marine life, most fish I'm still trying to ID, but definitely different from what I've seen here and in the Caribbean. Good site to help with ID's in this area: Divebums

Next day out on their 65ft King Neptune, with on-board compressor, for a three tank dive along the coast. Here there were wrecks as well, but I just couldn't get enough of dat kelp, and all these new critters. Saw a Sheep Crab had maybe a two foot span, nearly made me jump out of my suit. Thought it was an interesting rock or coral till the two pincers were thrust into my nosy face just a foot away. Yikes! Next site I poked what I thought was a big piece of black neoprene (diver on the boat had lost his vest), but realized it was a marine creature I'd never seen. Size of a black velvet basketball sitting on a plate of what really looked just like spaghetti? Seems this was the largest of the Sea Hares sitting on it's egg mass.
Garibaldis again, the official California state fish, only this time with lots of even cooler looking juveniles with their luminous blue spots. For the last dive, the seas were getting snotty. Still the crew offered, not very enthusiastically, to take us to a sheltered site on the way back to port. But after two long shallow dives in 55 degree water, both I and my boat buddy were chilled to the bone. No other divers on board wanted in again, so it was back to Avalon to prepare for our return to the mainland.

Wind picked up a lot. Two red flags flapping on our return, signaled gale force winds. Lots of activity in the harbor, people setting out stern anchors and otherwise securing their vessels. Our scheduled return ferry was cancelled. We were stranded on Catalina! Cool, dude! Managed to get another room for the night, nice hot shower, and another chance to enjoy an island evening. Food everywhere we ate in California was wonderful, but on Catalina we had just spectacular seafood. Local sea bass at the Country Club restaurant was one of the best meals I've ever enjoyed.

Back to the mainland a harbor seal greeted the ferry as entered the inlet. Lovely drive back to San Diego, hugging the coast, stopping frequently to absorb the views and admire the prowess of the many surfers. Enjoyed a final sunset off a pier, with fish and chips and good local brew, and then the long flight back to the Big Apple. This wasn't a dive trip per se, as Janna doesn't dive (yet). But I'd love to get back soon and immerse myself more fully. And with a working drysuit! Hope OBD can run a trip out there again soon. If any of you are thinking about going, I couldn't recommend it more highly. I certainly will not wait another fifty years before returning!

Stay wet... Avra

Ah, Avra.... wow.... your trip report has made me so homesick, I can't believe it. I'm so happy you saw and experienced so much (not just diving, but also the desert, another of my favorites!). I couldn't have planned a better itinerary for you, so I'm glad that meticulously planning to go wherever the wind blew you worked out so well. A beautifully written trip report, thanks so much for sharing. I'm long overdue for a return visit to Avalon.

That was some great reading Avra, Thank you so much for that trip report, It makes me want to head off to So Cal right now.

Like the travel channel. When are we going?

Les

Great report, Avra (although I'd expect nothing less). Sounds like you had a blast!