Sep 14, 2013 · 10:30 AM
The "Nevermind Wall" is one of Exit 38's best crags. There are some great 10s, some super fun 10c/d's, some classic 11s, and a couple of my favorite 12's in Washington. The climbs tend to be just overhanging enough to provide a great training angle, and the rock is some of best quality stone (i.e., no refrigerator sized death blocks hanging above you) to be found at 38. And on an 80 degree weekend, the fact that this wall is in the shade all day is nice, too.
The climbs are all sport--no other gear needed. Short approach, too. Everything has to be lead climbed--no walk ups--but I'm happy to put a rope up anything folks want to climb. Please do notice the ratings here, though; a 5.8/5.9 climber won't have the most satisfying day here, but 5.10/5.11 climbers have a blast.
I will leave Ballard at 9:30, and probably get to the trailhead around 10:15. I'll start hiking up at 10:30 or so. I can drive one or two up if you can get yourself to Ballard.
Bring draws, a rope, and lockers/cordelettes if you got 'em. And like most Washington crags, but particularly Exit 38 crags, you're asking for trouble if you leave any valuables or credit cards in your car. Leave 'em at home or bring them to the climbs with you. Meth heads love to hit up trailheads at 38. Seriously.
Fuller crag description: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/nevermind-wall/105792216
Directions: Exit I-90 as normal at Exit 38. Skip the right turn/parking area that people use for Amazonia, etc. Keep driving past some sketchy looking outhouses on the left (who are these for?) and you will come to a graveled parking area on the left that is at a spot where the road crosses over a nice stream/bridge. (NOTICE THIS IS BEFORE THE ROAD GOES UNDER I-90 FOR FARSIDE, ETC). There will probably already be several people there with other climbing parties. How do you know if you are at the correct left-side parking area? Look for my silver Toyota FJ Cruiser. Now, cross to the right side of the road, and follow a trail up the hill which begins alongside the stream. The trail climbs past a beginner-ish crag near the bridge/Iron Horse Trail. Walk across the bridge to the east side--as soon as you leave the bridge, look for a fixed rope on the right that hangs down a short 3rd class scramble. Climb up it, and a trail leads you 100 yards to the cliff. The total approach takes about 10-15 minutes from your car.