Easy Trad, gear setting and removal and raps

Wednesday, July 25 th at 5 pm: Easy trad climbs will be the focus (though there are tons of routes of all grades to go for) for those who would like to experience trad, gear placement AND gear removal, setting anchors and rapping back off (from bolt anchors in this case and people will be shown how to properly set and protect themselves for their rap and they will have a "Fireman's backup from a person at the base of the ropes). The meet will be in wonderful, Eldorado Canyon on Wind Tower and maybe Whale's Tail, each just a few hundreds of yards stroll from the carpark.

Eldorado Canyon has an entry-fee for each car and the lots just inside the gates to the park from Eldorado Springs, can get fairly full though evenings should be fine. We will thus rendevous at the large, dirt, lot at the NE corner of the junction (and lights) of Highways 93 (the Boulder/Golden rd) and 170 (The Eldorado Springs/Marshall rd). We can carpool there and leave just a few minutes after 5 pm (so that we can get a good, rock session in). I have an annual Eldo Pass and can take, say 4 people, favoring those that are new to trad outside and may climb with/near me and thus be likely to leave Eldo with me - though I will be staying until the very end). Folks may want to arrange car pooling in advance and from another venue, if they wish and I am fine with setting my pool now too. (See more details on the 93/170 jctn in the 'conversations' below)

From the meetup lot drive west towards Eldorado Springs. Road becomes dirt as one enters E Springs. Drive slowly thru town and just at the end of town pass the swimming pool and Spring water house on right side; from here the road goes leftish, over a bridge to the Eldo Park, ranger booth where you will pay if manned or will post your payment at a box on the right just past the booth (no idea but guessing $6/car). You then need to park in the areas just past the restrooms, just west of the booth, or in the overflow car park just below.

We will be climbing on Wind Tower. From the car park walk about 100 yds west, up the road and go right over the footbridge and then on the rocky path, straight ahead thru the bushes. Look up and right and you will see the big, slabby face of Wind Tower with a huge rectangular block lying against it at about mid-point. This is where we are heading and follow the rocky trail up to the big block area (all this is just a few minutes total from the car park).

The Wind Tower is the main, moderate area at Eldo and has some great, 3-star routes: Wind Ridge; Calypso; The Bomb: Breezy; and many more pitches all in the 5.4 - 5.6 range. Trad pro is excellent. For routes on the right (Bomb, Calypso) there are some bolt anchors - on the left one needs to set trad anchors (Wind Ridge, Breezy).

Depending on attendees and climber's needs I am very happy to take folks on the Bomb and Governer's etc, show pro placement and removal and rapping. The ideal would be a rope of 3 or 4 at max. These routes go up 2 pitches at about 5.5 though I like the last pitch of Boulder Direct as a second pitch. This will give a 2 stage rap from excellent bolts. There are also some harder pitches from the mid-height ledge system.

A great route to the left of above is Calypso, a perfect first pitch to bolts. Can do P2 but then it is walk off (no bolts). First 20' has sparse pro and leader must place a good directional to protect second before moving right to bolts and belay.

Many other routes but Wind Tower, 5.6 and Breezy, 5.5 are three star and at left end of main face. Best to do them as 2 pitch routes to a walk-off ledge system (though I keep the rope on for the first 20 feet from the top of P2 Wind Tower). These routes have great pro in perfect cracks. Each has a 3rd pitch that reaches the summit of Wind Tower but the way off is not straightforward and we do not anyone benighted!

I can give beta on all above and other routes on the day.

If you do not have a guidebook check out mountainprojects.com and look for Eldo and Wind Tower.

Nearby is the Whale's Tail that has two, great trad leads for a first or early lead. I give them each about .4. Rope up to get to the base of these.

What to bring? Harness, shoes, belay/rap device are minimum. Crash-hat is wise. Personal Anchoring System (PAS) or sling and locker so that you have a ready belay sling thru your harness when you get to belays (but I can loan some gear); nut tool if you have one (I have a spare or two); 6 mm rope loop for an autoblock, rap backup - will bring a few to show method of rap backup; belay gloves if you like.

This should be fun and feel free to drop me a line with any questions you may have. Robin

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  • A former member
    A former member

    Thanks for your comment, Ilene - much appreciated. The next two meets will be easier as all of us will be closer together doing lots of topropes, seconding or leading.

    July 26, 2012

  • ilene

    I was a bit worried about the group being so big but Robin did a great job organizing and it worked out really well.

    July 26, 2012

  • Chad

    Robin, I'll be checking out the CMC school tonight, but would love if you guys have another meetup like this in the near future, this info is fundamental and important. Will like to meet some good climbers and people. Thanks.

    July 25, 2012

  • Scott

    Jenifer, yes.

    Chris, I'm out of spots now.

    Those riding with me, please be there 4:40 or earlier. I'm in an old blue XTerra.

    July 25, 2012

  • Jennifer

    Scott, do you think I will able to catch a ride with you? I can meet you at the 1st Bank

    July 25, 2012

  • Scott

    Still available.

    July 25, 2012

  • Chris

    Scott, I'd like to join in your carpool if the spot isn't spoken for.

    July 25, 2012

  • Scott

    I think this means if it rains, its your fault and you are buying the first round.

    July 25, 2012

  • captpadlock

    rain rain go away, little johnny wants to play

    July 25, 2012

  • ilene

    Jennifer, everyone is carpooling and i'm sure we'll be able to make it work when we figure out how many people and cars are at the meeting area on 93.

    July 25, 2012

  • Scott

    I have room for 1 more.

    July 25, 2012

  • Jennifer

    Hello!
    I'm new to climbing and would love to go with you guys today. I was wondering if I'd be able to catch a ride with anybody or if anyone still needs a ride and we can carpool together?

    July 25, 2012

  • eric c.

    Thanks scott, see you there at 4:40pm or before

    July 25, 2012

  • Chad

    Robin, thanks for the prompt response, I may check out CMC's review skills session tonight just in case, but might your meetup group have something like this again in the near future? Sounds too good to pass up.

    July 25, 2012

  • eric c.

    I can walk there and meet you at the same place if that would be easier. Just tell me where to be

    July 25, 2012

  • Scott

    I can pick you up on the way. Just tell me where. I'm picking up Tinya near Broadway/Pearl at 4:40.
    [masked] [masked]

    July 25, 2012

  • eric c.

    I am not terribly picky, and will give some gas money for whoever

    July 25, 2012

  • Tonya M.

    I am good either way. It sounds like I can find the spot on my own so just let me know Scott if you are going to pick up Eric. Thanks

    July 25, 2012

  • ilene

    Tonya, if you are coming from the north side of Golden you'll be driving north on 93 and the lot will be on your right. There is a traffic light there. After you turn right, there is a trail head parking lot on your right (Marshall Mesa), you want the lot on your left side. It's a huge dirt lot, impossible to miss.

    July 25, 2012

  • Scott

    Tonya/Debbie/Eric/etc Here is the parking lot we are meeting at. https://maps.google.com/maps?daddr=39.953749,-105.231391&hl=en&ll=39.953775,-105.230838&spn=0.004792,0.004324&sll=39.953866,-105.229368&sspn=0.006777,0.008647&t=h&mra=mr&z=18

    Eric, I can pick you up if that would be better.
    [masked] [masked]

    July 25, 2012

  • Tonya M.

    Thanks Debbie! Eric kind of mentioned that to me! I am not for sure where the meeting spot is so I figured it may be easier for me (meaning my GPS!) to find a house instead! No worries! I can pick up anyone else along the way!

    July 25, 2012

  • Debbie

    To eric and Tonya - going from Golden to Canyon in Boulder and back to meeting place adds about fourteen miles of SLOW driving AFTER going by the parking lot first time.
    Isn't there anybody coming from Boulder to offer a ride. I bicycled from Boulder to Eldo frequently, not just to that intersection.
    (just a thought)

    July 24, 2012

  • Chad

    Might this be a good class to actually learn starting easy 5th class trad leading? Don't have much trad experience yet and some rock climbing but not that much yet, but that'll change soon. Am considering CMC trad lead climb school, but it's
    $200, 4 lectures and 4 field trips, and seems very stringent to even get into, maybe too much so. Let me know your thoughts on this. Thanks.

    July 24, 2012

  • Tonya M.

    Hello Eric. I could pick you up if you want. I am coming from North Golden, but wouldn't mind picking up people who already know where we are meeting! You can send me your address if you want to [masked] or[masked]

    July 24, 2012

  • eric c.

    If I could catch a ride, i would love to go, bring my rack, and can give ample instruction. Been climbing for 11 yrs. I live at 22nd and Canyon. Let me know.

    July 24, 2012

  • ilene

    I need practice placing gear. I've followed most of the easier routes on Wind Tower and Whale's Tail and led one last fall but I haven't led any trad climbs this year. I'm comfortable with rapping and anchors.

    July 24, 2012

  • A former member
    A former member

    I'll be looking for a ride into the park - and willing to buy a pass if the gate is manned. I'm brand spanking new to leading, having only taken an anchor building seminar from CMS several weeks ago. So need practice setting pro / building anchors. Have followed several of the Wind Tower routes.

    July 24, 2012

  • Robin N.

    Perfect Chris and thanks so much for explaining. Myself and Cory. At min, will be covering that.

    July 23, 2012

  • Chris

    I'm looking for an easy trad refresher, so would like to review gear placement and anchors briefly then have at it.

    July 23, 2012

  • Scott

    To everyone else, I still have room for another. Entrance fee to Eldo without a pass is $8/car and parking may be limited.

    July 23, 2012

  • Scott

    Shin, do you want to meet at the lot at 93/170 or do you want me to pick you up somewhere in Boulder. I'm coming from 36/Broadway.

    July 23, 2012

  • Tonya M.

    Thanks Robin. I am looking forward to meeting you as well and getting back into climbing!

    July 22, 2012

  • Robin N.

    Tonya, yes, very appropriate for you. At one end, I and some other lead climbers will be taking folk who are very new to trad and rapping to show anchors, pro placement and removal and a rap system. Others will be getting just more trad experience; there is no fixed syllabus; except I want folk to have a fun, safe time and learn some new stuff as they climb. Look forward to meeting you

    July 22, 2012

  • Tonya M.

    If I have never set my own routes using protection would this event be appropriate for me to attend? I have cleaned routes and have my own gear for top roping. Can climb around 5.9, but haven't climbed in the last 3 years or so. Thanks.

    July 22, 2012

  • ilene

    I've also got a park sticker and can take 3 others in my car. I will bring a rope and rack.

    July 18, 2012

  • A former member

    A former member changed the location from Eldorado Canyon (see below) to Dirt Lot NE corner of junction 93 and 170

    July 18, 2012

  • captpadlock

    I think the store and gas station are being demolished though. I pass by it everyday ;)

    July 17, 2012

  • Scott

    Anyone riding with me, just let me know when/where to pick you up. So far I have Shin and captpadlock. [masked] or [masked]

    July 17, 2012

  • Carlos T.

    Hi Everyone, my name is Carlos and I recently moved to Boulder area. I've been away from the rocks and I'll probably need a refresh. I hope you don't mind having a newbie around next wed. I'll bring my stuff in case we need extra equipment. Cheers! :)

    July 17, 2012

  • Shin

    I'd like to carpool with you too, Scott.

    July 17, 2012

  • captpadlock

    I'll carpool with you Scott.

    July 17, 2012

  • Scott

    Car pooling is suggested. Eldo has an entrance fee. I can bring 3 in with me. I'll be coming from 36/Broadway.

    July 17, 2012

  • Scott

    Thanks Robin for setting this up!

    July 17, 2012

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