Brokeoff Mountain, North Face

  • April 13, 2013 · 1:00 AM
  • This location is shown only to members

Brokeoff Mountain has one unnamed couloir on its sheer north face - and we're going to climb it and ski / snowshoe off the back side, making a grand tour of this unique mountain. If conditions are not good, we can opt to ascend (or descend) the sharp NE ridge instead. Maximum 8 climbers. RSVPs open Wednesday, March 20th at 8:00 pm.

How RSVPs work: Prospective members who have joined on Meetup but not yet paid for any membership may attend one event for free. Beyond this, you must be a current official SMG "MEMBER" to attend. All events open for RSVPs at 8:00pm on the Wednesday approximately three weeks prior. RSVPs are first-come first-served and are subject to event organizer review and final approval. All attendees must meet the pre-requisites. Prospective members will still need to sign the SMG Waiver / Assumption of Risk and provide emergency contact information to attend. Please provide the required information when you RSVP. Because this event occurs on public lands it is open to the public.

Not an official SMG member yet? Join the club here.

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THE DETAILS

Date: April 13, 2013

Location: Brokeoff Mountain, Lassen NP

Trailhead: Southwest Entrance near Sulphur Works off Hwy 89

Appropriate For: Intermediate/Advanced Climbers

Fitness and Difficulty Level: Difficult

Max Elevation: 9,087 ft

Starting Elevation: 6,955 ft

Weather: NOAA Forecast

Pre-Requisites: Participants must meet all the following:

  • Ability to confidently climb steep snow with crampons and an ice axe without or without a rope
  • Ability to ski, snowshoe, or snowboard moderately steep slopes
  • Excellent fitness to handle a long day being constantly on the go
  • Be an official member of SMG or be a prospective member on your first trip.

__________________________________________________

ITINERARY

Saturday, April 13: Meetup at Natomas Marketplace to carpool to Lassen NP. We'll park at the Brokeoff trailhead just outside the payment booths at 4am and walk a mile on the road to begin our ascent near Sulphur Works. We'll ascend up the ridge to gain the saddle between Brokeoff and Diller. We'll take a moment to get a good look at the NE Ridge route, if we can see anything in the pre-dawn darkness. Then we'll descend and traverse around the north face of Brokeoff on approach to the base of the NW gully, hoping to arrive there at 6:30 or 7:00am.

This route involves moderate snow climbing, but the angle could get over 45 degrees, we don't know. There is very little information about it so that's part of the adventure. It's approximately 1,000 feet high and may be corniced. We may climb it on a running belay or we may just solo it, it depends on conditions and who is in the party. We'll have light ropes and an array of protection to give us options.

After we top out, we'll go tag the summit at 9,735 then enjoy our ski / snowboard / snowshoe south off the backside, circling around by Forest Lake and eventually returning to the visitors center.

If the couloir is not stable we can also ascend the sharp and exposed class 3/4 NE ridge, or we may even opt to descend that way. There is virtually nothing known about this ridge but preliminary views and photos suggest it is..."exciting"...

__________________________________________________

REQUIRED CLOTHING, EQUIPMENT AND GEAR

Clothing

  • Wicking, breathable base layer, top and bottom
  • Insulating, weather-resistant mid-layer, top and bottom
  • Wind and waterproof shell layer, top and bottom
  • Insulating fill jacket
  • Socks, liners
  • Mountaineering boots, or approved sturdy backpacking boots
  • Lightweight liner gloves
  • Waterproof gloves or mittens
  • Glacier sunglasses
  • Warm hat - the touque!
  • Sun hat
  • Balaclava

Equipment

  • 30 - 40 liter pack
  • Trekking poles with snow baskets
  • Food
  • Water bottle
  • Headlamp w/extra batteries
  • Compass, GPS also recommended if available
  • Map
  • Sunscreen
  • Camera, extra batteries
  • Small knife
  • Personal items, medications
  • Emergency items - keep it small.

Gear

  • Lightweight mountaineering harness
  • Hard shell mountaineering helmet
  • Mountain axe
  • Steel crampons, fit to your boots
  • 2 large locking carabiners
  • 24" loop 5-6mm cord tied with a grapevine knot
  • Two 48” ("double") loop sewn runner slings or 9/16" webbing tied with a water knot
  • Skis or snowshoes

Group items provided by SMG

  • Technical climbing gear: ropes, protection for rock and snow, assorted slings and cordage, locking carabiners
  • First Aid kit
  • Radios

__________________________________________________

For questions or more information, please contact: Wayne Fry, SMG Event Organizer, (707)[masked]

Climb on!

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  • Brad

    Erica, did you come up with an extra ATC with black electrical tape on it when I handed you a sling and biner? Or has anyone else seen it?

    April 14, 2013

    • Erica

      Hi Brad, I didn't see it in my stuff, but given my butterfingers, I can't be sure I didn't drop one while attaching the snowshoes. If it doesn't show up, I'm happy to reimburse you for the replacement. Sorry!

      April 14, 2013

    • Brad

      That's okay. I must have dropped it when I went for that biner. Bummer. ...and just when I was wondering why i brought it in the first place.

      April 14, 2013

  • Art

    I am really jealous... Looks like a great couloir, sorry I missed it. I am back on the west coast finally.

    April 14, 2013

  • Hillary D.

    Awesome day on Neutrino. Thanks for organizing.

    April 14, 2013

  • Wayne

    What a thrill this one turned out to be. We had great planning on this one and it paid off big time. Excellent snow conditions and an exciting 60 degree exit on the couloir. It was just an all around good day in the mountains. Thanks guys this was a really fun day.

    April 13, 2013

  • Erica

    Given the intense nature of this trip, I think I am going to prolong my ski mountaineering debut. I look forward to getting some tips though.

    I'll be camping at Lassen the night before so I'll meet at the parking lot.

    Also, I will need crampons if they are available. (Big news, I now own an ice ax and helmet.)

    April 8, 2013

    • Darren S.

      Erica, make sure to meet us at the Brokeoff trailhead outside the pay stations, not the parking lot at the visitor center. We'll be in the van.

      April 11, 2013

    • Erica

      Thanks for the reminder! I am saddened to miss out on the fun van ride, but look forward to seeing ya'll at the trailhead.

      April 12, 2013

  • SUKI

    wow, i saw the photos,, this is more interesting.. OMG.. want this,, ;(

    April 11, 2013

  • Achalendra

    Darren, any need for extra pickets?

    April 8, 2013

    • Darren S.

      Actually, I wouldn't mind a few more....please bring them.

      April 10, 2013

    • Achalendra

      Copy.

      April 10, 2013

  • Marek B.

    Just found this; looks exciting near the exit! http://youtu.be/rnYZu8seHEE

    April 9, 2013

    • Darren S.

      Great info Marek! If it's really as steep as it appears, this will be an amazing route!

      April 10, 2013

    • Rick B.

      Looks pretty awesome!

      April 10, 2013

  • Darren S.

    Just sent out an additional email - you should have recieved two from me now. Read both carefully. See you late Friday night!

    April 10, 2013

  • Art

    Darren scared me :)
    I am still on the road. Will probably be looking for partners to climb on Sunday.

    April 8, 2013

    • Darren S.

      OK Art we'll catch you on another one!

      April 10, 2013

  • Dan B

    Sorry for the late notice. I'm just not going to be able to swing this with work friday and sunday. I sure wish I could... Have fun.

    April 10, 2013

  • SUKI

    nice..

    April 9, 2013

  • Marek B.

    Looks like a great SWAT team! Excited to see the old faces and meet the new people. Wayne, do you think we have enough runners, or do I need my own? See you around midnight?

    April 9, 2013

  • Achalendra

    Sounds good Wayne. See you Saturday morning - more like midnight to me!

    April 9, 2013

  • Wayne

    Hillary, Erica... glad to see your both on the trip. Looks like we have the beginnings of a Diller reunion.

    1 · April 8, 2013

    • Erica

      I think we got pretty good views of how fun this route will be.

      1 · April 8, 2013

  • Art

    I hope I can make it; if I have to cancel, I will know that by April 10

    March 20, 2013

  • Rick B.

    Wish I could go, but it's my Dad's 90th b-day party.

    March 20, 2013

  • Terrie

    WooHoo, Wayne! Blazin' trail!

    1 · March 20, 2013

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