Brokeoff Mountain has one unnamed couloir on its sheer north face - and we're going to climb it and ski / snowshoe off the back side, making a grand tour of this unique mountain. If conditions are not good, we can opt to ascend (or descend) the sharp NE ridge instead. Maximum 8 climbers. RSVPs open Wednesday, March 20th at 8:00 pm.
How RSVPs work: Prospective members who have joined on Meetup but not yet paid for any membership may attend one event for free. Beyond this, you must be a current official SMG "MEMBER" to attend. All events open for RSVPs at 8:00pm on the Wednesday approximately three weeks prior. RSVPs are first-come first-served and are subject to event organizer review and final approval. All attendees must meet the pre-requisites. Prospective members will still need to sign the SMG Waiver / Assumption of Risk and provide emergency contact information to attend. Please provide the required information when you RSVP. Because this event occurs on public lands it is open to the public.
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Date: April 13, 2013
Location: Brokeoff Mountain, Lassen NP
Trailhead: Southwest Entrance near Sulphur Works off Hwy 89
Appropriate For: Intermediate/Advanced Climbers
Fitness and Difficulty Level: Difficult
Max Elevation: 9,087 ft
Starting Elevation: 6,955 ft
Weather: NOAA Forecast
Pre-Requisites: Participants must meet all the following:
- Ability to confidently climb steep snow with crampons and an ice axe without or without a rope
- Ability to ski, snowshoe, or snowboard moderately steep slopes
- Excellent fitness to handle a long day being constantly on the go
- Be an official member of SMG or be a prospective member on your first trip.
Saturday, April 13: Meetup at Natomas Marketplace to carpool to Lassen NP. We'll park at the Brokeoff trailhead just outside the payment booths at 4am and walk a mile on the road to begin our ascent near Sulphur Works. We'll ascend up the ridge to gain the saddle between Brokeoff and Diller. We'll take a moment to get a good look at the NE Ridge route, if we can see anything in the pre-dawn darkness. Then we'll descend and traverse around the north face of Brokeoff on approach to the base of the NW gully, hoping to arrive there at 6:30 or 7:00am.
This route involves moderate snow climbing, but the angle could get over 45 degrees, we don't know. There is very little information about it so that's part of the adventure. It's approximately 1,000 feet high and may be corniced. We may climb it on a running belay or we may just solo it, it depends on conditions and who is in the party. We'll have light ropes and an array of protection to give us options.
After we top out, we'll go tag the summit at 9,735 then enjoy our ski / snowboard / snowshoe south off the backside, circling around by Forest Lake and eventually returning to the visitors center.
If the couloir is not stable we can also ascend the sharp and exposed class 3/4 NE ridge, or we may even opt to descend that way. There is virtually nothing known about this ridge but preliminary views and photos suggest it is..."exciting"...
REQUIRED CLOTHING, EQUIPMENT AND GEAR
- Wicking, breathable base layer, top and bottom
- Insulating, weather-resistant mid-layer, top and bottom
- Wind and waterproof shell layer, top and bottom
- Insulating fill jacket
- Socks, liners
- Mountaineering boots, or approved sturdy backpacking boots
- Lightweight liner gloves
- Waterproof gloves or mittens
- Glacier sunglasses
- Warm hat - the touque!
- Sun hat
- 30 - 40 liter pack
- Trekking poles with snow baskets
- Water bottle
- Headlamp w/extra batteries
- Compass, GPS also recommended if available
- Camera, extra batteries
- Small knife
- Personal items, medications
- Emergency items - keep it small.
- Lightweight mountaineering harness
- Hard shell mountaineering helmet
- Mountain axe
- Steel crampons, fit to your boots
- 2 large locking carabiners
- 24" loop 5-6mm cord tied with a grapevine knot
- Two 48” ("double") loop sewn runner slings or 9/16" webbing tied with a water knot
- Skis or snowshoes
Group items provided by SMG
- Technical climbing gear: ropes, protection for rock and snow, assorted slings and cordage, locking carabiners
- First Aid kit
For questions or more information, please contact: Wayne Fry, SMG Event Organizer, (707)[masked]