Rock Climbing at Phantom Spires And Lovers Leap

Hi everyone, I'm headed to Phantom Spires this Saturday and then headed to Lovers Leap East Wall on Sunday and looking for climbing partners. The plan is to get to the Spires early on Saturday to beat the heat so at the parking lot no later than 0730. After climbing I'll camp somewhere and then climb Sunday at Lovers Leap. Anyone who wants to ride share can meet at the Starbucks on Prairie City Rd next to Safeway at 0600. We will climb until the sun goes down. If you can only make one day that's OK, meet me at Lovers Leap trail head at 0730 on Sunday. How to get there: if you’re coming from Sacramento, take HWY 50 East past the little town of Kyburz for 4.9 miles, take a left on Wrights Lake Road. If you’re coming from South Lake Tahoe, take HWY 50 West through Strawberry and then 4.2 miles later take a right on Wrights Lake Road. Once on Wrights Lake Rd, drive 2.2 miles and turn left onto a dirt logging road, then it’s about half a mile to the parking lot. The logging road is pretty rough so low clearance cars might want to park on Wright Lake and walk in. To get to Lovers Leap, head to Strawberry and pull into the east end of the Strawberry Lodge parking lot. The road bends left, continue another 500 feet to a bridge that crosses the American River. Immediately after the bridge, turn left and continue up a narrow road to the campground. What to bring: You will need to bring your own climbing gear as much as you have. Harness, shoes, chalk bag, belay device, helmet are a must. Ropes, cams, nuts, hexes, slings, runners, quick-draws, cordeletts, lockers, ‘biners, etc are all needed and I only have so much extra I can bring. Please make sure you bring food, water, sunscreen, bug repellent, hat, sunglasses, etc to make sure you stay hydrated and not slow roasting in the sun. Please make sure you are proficient in belaying at the very least. If this is the first time you’ve every tied into a rope, I suggest you take a course first. Safety is always the first priority and I will check everyone who climbs with me and expect you to double check me because the only climb that counts is the one you come back from. This event is not affiliated with the Sierra Mountaineering Club, but that doesn’t mean we can’t get a good day of climbing in. I'm look forward to seeing you there. Thanks.

David V.
[masked]

The Tick List - South Lake Tahoe Climbing - SuperTopo

Phantom Spires

Upper Spire

I. Gingerbread 5.7 ****

U. Up for Grabs 5.8 ***

H. Fear of Flying 5.9 *****

J. Jugs Revisited 5.9 ****

Middle Spire

C. Over Easy 5.7 ****

I. Regular Route 5.8 ***

B. Hard Up 5.9 **

A. Slowdancer 5.9***

P. Corn Flakes 5.9***

S. Penny Candy 5.10a****

O. Fancy Dancin’ 5.10b***

K. Candy Land 5.10c *****

L. Candy Ass 5.10d****

R. Leaner and Meaner 5.11b***

The Blocks

B. Blue Note 5.10b**

A. The Bowling Ball 5.10b***

D. My Favorite Thing 5.10d***

C. French Letter 5.11a**

Lovers Leap

Hogsback

A. Knapsack Crack 5.5***

D. Harvey’s Wallbangers, Center 5.6**

B. Deception 5.6***

East Wall

A. Pop Bottle 5.7**

I. East Wall 5.7***

G. East Crack 5.8***

C. Haystack 5.8*****

D. Preparation H 5.8****

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  • David

    Two great days climbing with a great group of folks. I'll post another climbing trip like this soon. Hopefully next time I'll remember to take pictures.

    June 8, 2014

  • larry c.

    Was nice to just to climb again and meet everyone.

    June 8, 2014

  • David

    Stefan, I hope nothing serious happened to keep you from making it. Hopefully we'll get to climb again soon.

    June 7, 2014

    • David

      Yeah I don't think that will be a problem, we can practice a twin rope system. Can you be there at our before 0730?

      June 7, 2014

    • Stefan

      Thanks. Appreciate it. But it turns out I won't be able to make it on Sunday. I look forward to future climbs!

      June 8, 2014

  • David

    Leo, I'm at site 9 at the lovers leap campground. I'll be ready to climb whenever you get here. Please let me know that you're still going to make it. See you later.

    June 7, 2014

    • Leonardo

      I see you tomorrow 7:30.

      June 7, 2014

    • David

      Awesome.

      June 7, 2014

  • larry c.

    HI Climbing on Sat probably be too climbed out to climb Sun.. no rideshare , no camping, Will find you there ,try to show approx.. 8:30.Orange pack w big dark glasses, hat w ear pieces, light blue long sleeve shirt.

    June 6, 2014

  • Leath S.

    See u guys at the spires

    June 6, 2014

  • Paul J.

    Climbing on: Sat
    Camping: No
    Rideshare): No-will meet you all there
    Bringing: Rope / Quickdraws / Personal climbing gear

    June 6, 2014

  • David

    In an effort to keep track of everyone please let me know the following:

    Climbing on: Sat / Sun / Both
    Camping: Yes / No
    Meeting at Starbucks (Rideshare): Yes-Sat / Yes-Sun / No-will meet you all there
    Bringing: Rope / Rack / Only personal climbing gear

    Copy and paste, delete what doesn't apply.

    As far as camping goes, I was planning to stay at Lover's Leap Campground. If it is full, 42 Mile Road will be the next option. Right now, I am only bringing a solo tent and a jet boil. Let me know if anyone has any questions. Thanks.

    June 6, 2014

    • Leonardo

      Climbing on: Sun
      Camping: No
      Meeting at Starbucks (Rideshare): Yes-Sun
      Bringing: Rope and Rack

      June 6, 2014

    • David

      Hopefully everyone will answer, so you guys aren't waiting for no one. Right now I'm taking my bike so I will not need the ride share unless someone's planning on climbing both days and doesn't mind.

      June 6, 2014

  • German V.

    I'm hurting after climbing Shasta yesterday. Gotta bail. Have fun!

    June 6, 2014

    • David

      Hopefully next time then.

      June 6, 2014

  • larry c.

    Hi David be happy to join your group for Sat/maybe Sun .I be driving up from Cameron park. If I show up a little later ,where should I look for/find you guys(have climbed there before). I haven't rock climbed in about 10 years and really want to see what I can do on top rope or seconding. Used to lead 5.7/8s but now, would be challenged enough top roped/or seconding on the easiest routes (5.7-8). and not confident do any leading . Can bring a small rack( cams to 3" w binners/slings. Feel free to call me ph[masked]

    June 5, 2014

    • David

      Hey Larry, so I have an ambitious tick list for Saturday, mostly between Upper Spire and Middle Spire, not sure exactly where I will be at, depends on what routes are open and what's in the shade or sun. I will be wearing dark green pants and a red-orange shirt. Feel free to bring what ever gear you want if you want to practice placing it on TR or something.

      June 6, 2014

  • Leath S.

    David , where are you spending the night?
    The spires?

    June 5, 2014

    • David

      Probably the lovers leap campground, I like to roll out of bed and go climb.

      June 5, 2014

  • Paul J.

    Hi David, I hope to join you at the parking lot with my daughter Kendall - she is 12, but climbs circles around me. Is the age an issue? We would have a rope, a dozen quickdraws and a few slings. Paul

    June 4, 2014

    • David

      No of course not. If it was a bunch of teen and tweens, it'd be an issue. But daughter, no problem.

      June 4, 2014

  • Sergey S.

    Hey, about Lovers Leap, I just wonder if you (or someone) is rope gunning? :) I'd like to come (and bring a +1, up to 2 ropes and bunch of sport gear). I can lead sport up to 9-10a, but only follow trad, and have no multi-pitch experience (I'm up for gaining some though and took a class :)). I checked out mountain project and it seems like without trad leaders it's not a place to go. So if 8 ppl w/o trad experience show up, how is this going to work.

    June 4, 2014

    • David

      I'm good up to mid 10s on trad, but even if we only hit lower grade routes it'll still be a good time.

      June 4, 2014

  • David

    So I decided to extend this trip to Sunday so I don't have to drive back and forth. If anyone wants to climb Sunday (too) you're more than welcome.

    June 4, 2014

  • Leath S.

    David , i'm in. See you guys up there.

    June 4, 2014

    • David

      Awesome looking forward to it.

      June 4, 2014

  • Leath S.

    I really want to go. If I can get out of work I'll be there. otherwise have fun . I hope I make the next one.

    June 3, 2014

    • David

      I don't know Leath, it looks like you're starting to catch a cold.

      June 3, 2014

    • Leath S.

      If just a cold I would be there. I'll find out tomorrow if I'm working for sure.

      June 3, 2014

  • Stefan

    David! Long time no see. I'm really excited about this one. What grades are we climbing?

    June 3, 2014

    • David

      Whatever you want to get on, want to practice placing pro on a 5.7 on top rope? We can set that up. Want to try to lead a 5.10? We can do that too.

      June 3, 2014

  • Robert R.

    Hi David,
    This fits into my plans with one day off. My cell is[masked]-5186. I'm in Denver on business but free Friday. I have enough gear for several as well...full trad rack. Have scoped Phantom but never climbed there. I can meet you early but will likely drive myself so I can leave earlier than dusk. I plan to bring my dog.. a pug to hang out.
    Lets chat before.

    June 3, 2014

    • David

      Sounds good Robert, I'll give you a call on Friday.

      June 3, 2014

  • German V.

    I've seen this place many time before, never knew the name! I'm tentative about it for now, but would love to join if my schedule works out. will you be doing trad, sports or TR? I'm not experience in Trad, but have some gear for it.

    June 3, 2014

    • David

      I'm bringing enough to do everything, I have three ropes I'll bring and plenty of gear for sport or trad.

      June 3, 2014

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