Mt. Tallac Cross Couloir

Mt. Tallac Cross Couloir - Tahoe's best snow climb. It's the best time of year to climb this iconic route straight up the center of this iconic mountain. Maximum 12 climbers.

How RSVPs work: Prospective members who have joined on Meetup but not yet paid for any membership may attend one event for free. Beyond this, you must be a current official SMG "MEMBER" to attend. All events open for RSVPs at 8:00pm on the Wednesday approximately three weeks prior. RSVPs are first-come first-served and are subject to event organizer review and final approval. All attendees must meet the pre-requisites. Prospective members will still need to sign the SMG Waiver / Assumption of Risk and provide emergency contact information to attend. Please provide the required information when you RSVP. Because this event occurs on public lands it is open to the public.

Not an official SMG member yet? Join the club here.

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THE DETAILS

Dates: Saturday, April 6th, 2013

Location: Mt. Tallac, Tahoe National Forest

Route: Cross Couloir

Appropriate For: all levels of climbers in good shape

SMG MEMBERS ONLY Resources:

Fitness and Difficulty Level: Moderate

Max Elevation: 9,735 ft

Starting Elevation: 6,522 ft

Weather: NOAA Forecast

Pre-Requisites: Participants must meet all the following:

  • A level of fitness equal to the challenge of climbing and descending over 3,000 feet in snow with a 30-pound pack
  • Familiarity with climbing snow on a team using a running belay
  • Show up with the appropriate clothing, gear, and equipment (or if you are an official member, reserve loaner gear from the club).
  • Attend as a prospective member or begin SMG membership, see links above.

__________________________________________________

ITINERARY

Saturday, April 6th: Please notice a 5:00 am meetup time - it's very important to get an early start on this route since it gets all day sun and will soften with every passing hour - the sooner we get our crampons on the snow, the better.

Meet at the posted location off Hwy 50 in Folsom. After arranging carpooling we'll drive east up 50 to 89 to South Lake Tahoe and then to Spring Creek Road. You can also meet us here at 7:00 am if you'd like - please indicate when you RSVP.

We'll walk the first paved mile through the neighborhood (unless the gate is open) and ascend the first 2,000 feet on snowshoes or skis through the trees, up the gap to the hidden plateau at 7,008' and then up to the start of the route at the foot of the Black Buttress.

We'll rope up in small teams and climb the couloir with crampons and axes, using a running belay with intermediate snow pickets and rock pro as protection, topping out just south of the summit. We'll descend the SE slopes.

This is a great route for climbers who would also like to ski / snowboard back down.

__________________________________________________

REQUIRED CLOTHING, EQUIPMENT AND GEAR

Need more detailed descriptions?

Clothing

  • Wicking, breathable baselayers, top and bottom
  • Insulating, weather-resistant mid-layer, top and bottom
  • Wind and waterproof shell layer, top and bottom
  • Insulating fill jacket
  • Socks, liners
  • Mountaineering boots, or crampon compatible ski / snowboard boots
  • Lightweight liner gloves
  • Waterproof gloves
  • Glacier sunglasses
  • Warm hat - the touque!
  • Sun hat

Equipment

  • 30 - 50 liter pack. Leave some room for carrying group gear.
  • Trekking poles with snow baskets
  • Food
  • Water bottles or containers. Water bladders not recommended in freezing weather.
  • Headlamp
  • Compass, GPS also recommended if available
  • Map
  • Sunscreen
  • Camera
  • Personal items, medications
  • Emergency items - keep it small.

Gear

  • Lightweight mountaineering harness
  • Hard shell mountaineering helmet
  • Mountain axe
  • Optional second tool
  • Crampons, fit to your boots
  • 2 large locking and one non-locking carabiner
  • One 48” loop sewn runner or webbing tied with a water knot
  • Skis or snowshoes

Group items provided by SMG

  • Technical climbing gear: multiple lightweight ropes, protection for rock and snow, slings, locking carabiners
  • First Aid kit
  • Snow shovel
  • Radios

__________________________________________________

For questions or more information, please contact: Darren Shutt, SMG Organizer, [masked] or (916)[masked]

Climb on!

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  • Mike

    Thanks to everyone for making this a fun day! I ended up taking someones biner home with me, Dakin I think it was yours. Non-locker with white athletic tape on it. Send me your address in an email and I'll toss it in the mail. I need to go to the post office in the next day or two anyway.

    April 8, 2013

    • Brad

      Mike, it's mine. Thanks for telling me. I totally forgot! Though had the feeling I did loan something. I'm on the Casaval climb, too. Just bring it then.

      April 8, 2013

    • dakin c.

      Yep, not mine. See you both on Shasta in two weeks. Thanks again Wayne and Rick for leading a fun climb, and a great day!

      April 9, 2013

  • Elena

    Thank you Wayne, special thanks to Rick S., Rick B., Leonardo, and Chris! I had a wonderful time! I will upload photos sometime during the week...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=...­

    April 7, 2013

  • Wayne

    Well said Rick. Snow conditions did turn out to be much softer than expected. The couloir was basically a swim and we had to back off after climbing about a third of the route. Those who did summit did it from the ridge to the left of the couloir. Overall I think we did have a good day and took our best shot.

    1 · April 7, 2013

  • Rick B.

    We did well to get three to the summit considering some of the toughest snow conditions I've ever seen!

    1 · April 7, 2013

  • SUKI

    this is great, have a great time guys..

    April 5, 2013

  • Todd E.

    I'm out for a few weeks. Sorry for the late notice. Hope it's a great climb!

    April 5, 2013

  • Brad

    I'm car-less this weekend. Anyone willing to swing by my midtown Sac house on the way to the meetup? Just 4 blocks from 80 -- 10th & S -- and a detour that's less than a minute total.

    April 2, 2013

    • Brad

      I'll throw in extra carpool cash, of course.

      April 3, 2013

    • Darren S.

      Brad did you see Rick B is willing to get you?

      April 4, 2013

  • Todd E.

    I tweaked my knee pretty bad yesterday and am seeing a doctor tomorrow. 50/50 I make it. If I do, it'll be coming from Tahoe City.

    April 4, 2013

    • Darren S.

      Hey Todd, thanks for the heads up. Hope you can make it. Since there are a number of folks still waiting, if you can't make it please change your RSVP as soon as possible, thanks.

      April 4, 2013

  • Rick S.

    Anyone know how the current snow will affect the couloir. I'm thinking there will be loose snow in that section of the climb. Any thoughts?

    April 4, 2013

    • Wayne

      Snow accumulation has been minimal (less than one inch in the last 24 hours). Current avalanche advisory level is moderate and applies mainly to aspects BELOW 8500 ft due to rain on snow. I don't expect this to be a factor in our climb. If need be we'll dig a pit and check snow conditions before we commit. http://sierraavalanch...­

      April 4, 2013

    • Rick S.

      I would have thought more than that would have fallen. Cool see you guys Saturday.

      April 4, 2013

  • Rick B.

    Brad, if no one can come by to get you that's coming down 80, I will come up that way from EG. We'll make sure you get there. I'll keep an eye on postings.

    April 4, 2013

  • Cathy

    Hi cross couloir group - all loaner crampons are spoken Leonardo and Brian you are covered. Lawrence and Sarah you are covered for the east chutes group.

    1 · April 4, 2013

  • Sarah

    I am hoping to get a ride from the meet-up spot in Folsom. My truck is not good in snow conditions :(

    April 4, 2013

  • Mike

    Hey guys, Brian and I would like to carpool with some one if there is space. I can make it out to the meetup location but my truck won't make it up the hill without overheating. One of these days I'll get it fixed, but it only gets 14mph and seats two, so I haven't been in a rush. If you have some extra space that would be great. I tip well :)

    April 3, 2013

    • Wayne

      Mike, you guys can catch a ride with me. 4am Dixon Safeway?

      April 3, 2013

    • Mike

      Sounds good Wayne, thanks again

      April 3, 2013

  • Rick B.

    Wayne, I've got two 24" pickets, should I bring them? Also, I have a spare 2nd tool that someone can use and I'll bring my rope. I can drive and take 3 other people.

    April 3, 2013

    • Wayne

      Yep, bring that stuff along. The rest of the group gear (ropes, pickets, and slings) are covered.

      April 3, 2013

  • Wayne

    Alright, I hope everyone is getting excited for this climb. Looks like lower temps this weekend. That's great news. If anyone needs loaner gear, let us know and Rick and I will take care of it.

    April 2, 2013

    • Cathy

      Hi Wayne - I am going to pick up loaner gear Thursday morning from Darren. Right now only one person from our group going up NE route has requested crampons.

      April 2, 2013

    • Leonardo

      I will need crampons and the long ice axe!

      April 2, 2013

  • Brian

    Looking forward to this. Last weekend at the East Buttress rocked. I need Crampons, an ice axe and snowshoes please. Looking forward to meeting some new Mountaineers. Thanks

    April 2, 2013

    • Wayne

      Brian, do you have a helmet?

      April 2, 2013

    • Brian

      Yes to Helmet. Thanks Darren

      April 2, 2013

  • Greg K.

    Knee problem. Going in for an x-ray. Bummer. Was super excited to go. Next time!

    March 29, 2013

  • heidi

    If a spot opens, would like to jump on this route!

    March 19, 2013

  • Lawrence

    I'll be joining the other approach. So this should free up a spot for the waitlist.

    March 18, 2013

  • Darren S.

    RSVPs open tonight at 9pm for another team doing virtually the same route, just no ropes on the opposite side of the Black Buttress - the East Chutes. Please join us for that one!

    March 14, 2013

  • David

    Co-Leading the east team now

    March 14, 2013

  • Erica

    Seriously, folks?

    March 13, 2013

    • Erica

      Hi Darren, I realized that comment doesn't quite amused surprise I thought it did last night. I can't lead, but am happy to help in any other way possible.

      March 14, 2013

    • Tara

      Ditto, Erica - I clearly can't lead, but if there's anything I can do to help out on a second group trip, let me know.

      March 14, 2013

  • Dan B

    I don't think I'm quite ready to lead this yet but I'm happy to help organize a second group in whatever way helps. I'm totally down!

    March 14, 2013

  • jillian h.

    I am curious do you know the difference in difficulty between walking on the trail with no snow and with snow. I did this a part of 3 days backpacking trip ending up at eagle lakes in july.

    March 13, 2013

    • jillian h.

      Also, would I be at huge disadvantage on snowshoes?

      March 13, 2013

    • Darren S.

      Hey Jillian, it is only slighter more strenuous to hike in snowshoes in the best of conditions. If the snow is deep and unconsolidated, it can be almost impossible. Bear in mind we are not taking any of the normal backpacking / trail routes from the west. We are coming up the steep east face - no trails there, only part of any route will be on snowshoes. The rest is steep enough we will be boots.

      March 13, 2013

  • Christian B.

    Wow, that sold out fast. I am a quite experienced ski mountaineer. Pet me add myself to the waiting list

    March 13, 2013

    • Darren S.

      Hey Christian, we'd love to have you. You might be interested in the NE ridge, it is the most popular way to ski Tallac. Interested in helping me get something together for that day as well?

      March 13, 2013

  • Darren S.

    Hey all, this is getting crazy! With so many people interested and apparently available on April 6, let's have another team go up the NE ridge - it's a great route too, and also a great ski. Anyone interested? I'll help you get it together! Contact me.

    March 13, 2013

  • Brad

    Woah. That filled within 5 seconds!

    March 13, 2013

    • Mike

      Yes that was crazy. Fortunately 2 people that have never climbed with SMG made it on!

      March 13, 2013

  • Darren S.

    Thank you Wayne and Rick for organizing! You guys are lifesavers!

    March 13, 2013

  • Darren S.

    Sorry, I have an important family commitment that day - have fun you guys, this is a great route!

    March 13, 2013

  • Elena

    I put it in my calendar, so I do not plan anything else on this date...

    1 · December 28, 2012

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