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Red Slate Mountain (North Couloir)

Red Slate Mountain. A true mountaineers peak with a 1,000 ft couloir and 40 degree snow and ice. We've had our eye on this one for far too long. It's time to put together a team and bag this bad boy. Maximum 6 intermediate/advanced climbers.

All climbers selected for this team must meet the pre-requisites.

How RSVPs work: If you believe you meet the pre-requisites, please add yourself to the waitlist and answer the questions. Everyone will be evaluated by the organizer and a final team selected.

Prospective members who have joined on Meetup but not yet paid for any membership may attend one event for free. Beyond this, you must be a current official SMG "MEMBER" to attend. Prospective members will still need to sign the SMG Waiver / Assumption of Risk and provide emergency contact information to attend. Please provide the required information when you RSVP. Because this event occurs on public lands it is open to the public.

Not an official SMG member yet? Join the club here.



Dates: July 20-21, 2013

Location: Red Slate Mountain

Route: North Couloir

Appropriate For: Intermediate/Advanced Climbers w/good fitness


Fitness and Difficulty Level: Difficult

Max Elevation: 13,100 ft

Starting Elevation: 7,600 ft

Weather: NOAA Forecast

Pre-Requisites: Participants must meet all the following:

  • Organizer approval
  • Fitness to handle a long strenuous approach (7 mi. @ +3400 ft)
  • Ability to negotiate river crossings with a full pack and handle exposed sections of trail.
  • Ability to confidently climb 40 degree snow/ice independently or on running belay.
  • Ability to self arrest/belay with an ice axe
  • Show up with the appropriate clothing, gear, and equipment (or if you are an official member, reserve loaner gear from the club).
  • Attend as a prospective member or begin SMG membership, see links above.



Saturday, Day 1:
Meet in Folsom and arrange carpooling. Begin our drive to Convict Lake. The hike to base camp will be up Convict Canyon where we will tackle at least one river crossing and negotiate a few sections of washed out (exposed) trail. We'll setup base camp at Lake Wit-So-Nah-Pah and rest up for tomorrow's climb.

Sunday, Day 2:
Climb early, descent the north slope, break camp, and head back to the cars for a well deserved victory meal.




  • Wicking, breathable baselayer, top and bottom
  • Wind and waterproof shell layer, top and bottom
  • Insulating fill jacket
  • 2 pair socks, liners
  • Mountaineering boots, or approved sturdy backpacking boots
  • Lightweight liner gloves
  • Waterproof gloves
  • Glacier sunglasses
  • Warm hat - the touque!
  • Sun hat


  • 40 - 50 liter pack. Leave some room for carrying group gear.
  • Trekking poles
  • Shelter, or share group shelter
  • Minimum 15-degree sleeping bag
  • Sleeping pad
  • Mug / bowl and spoon
  • Food
  • Water bottles or containers.
  • Headlamp w/extra batteries
  • Compass, GPS also recommended if available
  • Map
  • Sunscreen
  • Camera, extra batteries
  • Small knife
  • Personal items, medications
  • Emergency items - keep it small.


  • Lightweight mountaineering harness
  • Hard shell mountaineering helmet
  • Sharp mountain axe
  • Sharp ice tool
  • Sharp steel crampons, fit to your boots
  • 2 large locking and 2 non-locking carabiners
  • 2 single length slings
  • 2 double length slings

Group items provided by SMG

  • Technical climbing gear: ropes, protection for rock, ice and snow, assorted slings and cordage, locking carabiners
  • First Aid kit
  • Some tents
  • Some stoves, pots
  • Radios


For questions or more information, please contact: Wayne Fry, SMG Event Organizer, by clicking the "Send Email" link from his profile.

Climb on!

Join or login to comment.

  • Darren S.

    Hey Red Slate Team - congratulations on a fine climb. Thank you Wayne for organizing. Looks like a place we should return to in the future!

    1 · July 23, 2013

    • Florian

      She said "Get out of my way you snail!"

      2 · July 23, 2013

    • Terrie

      NOT TRUE! I said, "You'll never pass me, you adorable French male!"

      July 23, 2013

  • George S.

    That was a bitchin climb! 1000+ feet of 40 degree snow climb, base layer only weather, great people, awesome geology, beautiful Lake Dorothy...What more could you ask for. Thanks Wayne for great leadership and posting this one. Only thing that could be better is less talus crossings! LOL

    July 22, 2013

  • Wayne

    Man, what-a-climb! The route was a great mix of snow, ice, and rock. We climbed the entire length of the couloir and topped out just below the summit. It was beautiful. I want to thank the Red Slate team (Terrie, Florian, and George) for a really exciting climb. You guys were great. I also want to thank Rick Bauer for helping out with the recon work.

    2 · July 22, 2013

  • Florian

    Awesome snow/ice climb with an awesome group :)

    1 · July 21, 2013

  • Wayne

    Okay guys, seems like a lot of us (including myself) are having difficulty getting this Friday off. To make things a little easier on us (and our bosses) I'm going to change this event to a Sat/Sun climb. Hope this works better for everyone.

    July 16, 2013

    • Florian

      When do you plan to be at convict lake Wayne (approximatively). So that I know when to leave LA :)

      July 18, 2013

    • Wayne

      Best estimate is between 9:30 and 10. That includes a stop at Mammoth to pickup a permit. I'll be sending out a final details message a little later today. Stay tuned.

      1 · July 18, 2013

  • GaryG

    Sorry...can't get time off this late.

    July 16, 2013

  • Erica

    sorry for the late is running long. Hope someone can take my spot

    July 16, 2013

  • Dagmar

    Just found out that I have to work despite being promised time off : -(. I'm very mad. This will be a fabulous trip , darned.

    July 8, 2013

  • mario m.

    Due to a previous engagement, I will not be able to attend.
    Please take me off the waiting list.
    My apologies

    July 1, 2013

  • Darren S.

    I'm pleased we're finally getting the chance to tackle this classic route. It's one of the longest couloirs around and a spectacular peak. Thanks for organizing Wayne!

    1 · June 22, 2013

  • Wayne

    RSVP's are now open! Let's get dirty.

    June 22, 2013

  • Wayne

    Rick and I had a chance to do a little recon for this trip when we were climbing Baldwin (6/15/2013). The approach up Convict Canyon is doable. We will need to deal with a river crossing at about the three mile mark and work through a few washed out sections of trail before we get to Mildred lake. The north couloir (from the summit of Baldwin) also looked to be in good shape. The photos from that trip are located here.

    June 16, 2013

4 went

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