addressalign-toparrow-leftarrow-rightbackbellblockcalendarcameraccwcheckchevron-downchevron-leftchevron-rightchevron-small-downchevron-small-leftchevron-small-rightchevron-small-upchevron-upcircle-with-checkcircle-with-crosscircle-with-pluscontroller-playcrossdots-three-verticaleditemptyheartexporteye-with-lineeyefacebookfolderfullheartglobegmailgooglegroupshelp-with-circleimageimagesinstagramFill 1light-bulblinklocation-pinm-swarmSearchmailmessagesminusmoremuplabelShape 3 + Rectangle 1ShapeoutlookpersonJoin Group on CardStartprice-ribbonprintShapeShapeShapeShapeImported LayersImported LayersImported Layersshieldstartickettrashtriangle-downtriangle-uptwitteruserwarningyahoo

Mt Lorette off limits so Gap Peak to Mt Fable S Ridge 5.4

Gap Peak to Mount Fable S Ridge 5.4

Looking for 1-2 partners to bag a peak from Kane's famous book via an alpine rock route. ***DUE TO ACCESS ISSUES WE LIKELY HAVE TO SCRAMBLE UP GAP PEAK FIRST AND THEN TRAVERSE TO MT FABLE AND THEN REVERSE FOR A GUARANTEED LONGER DAY*** and if time permits traverse (walk/scramble) over to Gap Peak for a second Kane's peak. This will be a second attempt for me (see pic to left) as I was turned around on an ACC trip a few years back when we got on the wrong slab that didn't lead to the top.

There is no doubt this will be a long day (1350m ascent for Fable alone). It is a long approach and will require a lot of daylight and little to no snow...thus if it the trip needs to be postponed from late June/early July then I may have to move it back to early September without the Gap Peak add-on.

The rock climbing should be easy with a lot of the slab being more of a roped up difficult scramble. Our greatest challenge will be to identify the correct slab to climb as there are many on the approach. We will need a sunny day as we won't want to be caught up there in marginal weather, nor do we want to retreat before the summit. We will descend the scramble route west ridge and south slopes.

 

I will assess people's skills via email from the waitlist.

 

Some Background Info:

Dow Climbing Fable-Gap - good picture of upper slabs

Peak Finder

Bivouac.com route description

Banff Rock

 

Equipment Required:

Harness

Locking carabiner + belay device

Prussik cord

Helmet

Climbing or alpine approach shoes

Wind/rain gear

Water (camel bag in a small pack is best)

Sunscreen

 

Contact Alex with questions via email or at[masked]

NOTE: If the weather isn't cooperating then the trip may be cancelled (no point in going all that way to have wet rock that is unclimbable) so have a backup plan B so you don't waste your Sunday!

 

_________________________________

POSTPONED MT LORETTE DUE TO NO ACCESS

 

Looking for a partner or two to join me on what is considered a classic, relatively easy but exposed, alpine ridge rock climb on the dry (however does include a river crossing on the approach), nearby front range peak  in Kananaskis.

The rock climbing should be easy with a lot of the ridge being more of a roped up difficult scramble (some people solo this ridge). We will need a sunny day as we won't want to be caught up there in marginal weather, nor do we want to retreat before the summit. We will descend the north ridge (scramble). Total ascent ~ 1000m. Expecting about a 6 hr trip.

You should be comfortable scrambling difficult peaks, know how to to lead belay, know how to clean a gear belay station, as well as have experience seconding a lead climber and rappelling (although we don't expect to be rappelling on this climb).

 

I will assess people's skills via email from the waitlist.

 

Some Background Info:

Dow Climbing trip report

Trip Report with pics

Summit Post

 

Equipment Required:

*MAY USE BIKE TO CUT DOWN APPROACH TIME*

Harness

Locking carabiner + belay device

Prussik cord

Helmet

Climbing or alpine approach shoes

Wind/rain gear

Water (camel bag in a small pack is best)

Sunscreen

 

Contact Alex with questions via email or at[masked]

NOTE: If the weather isn't cooperating then the trip may be cancelled (no point in going all that way to have wet rock that is unclimbable) so have a backup plan B so you don't waste your Sunday!

 

Join or login to comment.

  • Attila L.

    Okay, see your guys at 6.00am.

    July 6, 2013

  • Alex J.

    ****AGAIN WE ARE MEETING AT SHOULDICE AT 6AM****

    July 6, 2013

  • Alex J.

    OK so due to lack of access to Mt Lorette (AB Parks says "forbidden and illegal to access Kananaskis backcountry) and potential for 20% above average flows on Kananaskis...we are changing targets and recycling a postponed trip I posted a few weeks ago that got cancelled due to the Calgary flood!

    We will scramble up Gap Peak and then traverse the ridge to Mt Fable where depending upon the weather (potential afternoon thunderstorms) we will either climb the south ridge 5.4 to the summit, scramble to the summit, or bail into the valley below. This is likely a 9 hr+ day.

    So I have moved up the Shouldice meeting time to 6am.

    You will need a helmet, climbing harness, belay device, locking carabiner, and sling or cord.

    Be prepared to get rained on. And bring comfortable scrambling shoes/boots as we have a long walk to get up Gap Peak to Mt Fable and then exiting down the valley.

    Email me or call me if you have questions.
    [masked]
    alxj @ yahoo dot com

    July 6, 2013

  • Alex J.

    Daniela you are in. Paul dropped due to length of day.

    July 6, 2013

  • daniela b.

    I know you guys are pretty full but if there is any possibility for me to sneak in I will just love go to fable tomorrow.....my phone number is 4036178829....just let me know

    July 6, 2013

  • Alex J.

    On road home. Will update trip after 9pm. Fable. Meet at 6 am at shouldice.

    July 6, 2013

  • Pawel

    I have a bike and am up for any trip tomorrow. Sorry I can't propose any ideas given this new info; I'm from Vancouver and without guidebooks. I gave Alex my number re: any updates, as I won't have any internet connection until I get back home late tonight.
    See ya'll tomorrow! :)

    July 6, 2013

  • daniela b.

    I 'm planning to go to mount Fable tomorrow , the access to exshaw is open and the exshaw creek trail is closed but there is an alternative one indicated in the web site kananasky trail....I tried to call the number for more info but no answer....

    July 6, 2013

  • Attila L.

    I just talked with park officer from K-country and according to him all access into backcountry is forbidden and ilegal at this point,, except Wasootch slabs. Regarding Mount Fable, access into Exshaw it is not recommended by community due to flood damage, but is not ilegal to enter in the backcountry. Lady MCDonald it is accessible thru the Benchlands.
    If you require additional information please call[masked] (K-country info line).

    July 6, 2013

  • Alex J.

    For those on the trip tomorrow please send me your cell phone # in case we have to change destination and indicate whether you have a bike. As well tell me what you think of mt fable 5.4 as alternative. I am in yho today scrambling and wont be on net until this evening.

    July 6, 2013

  • Alex J.

    I had a chat with a friend who is dam safety at Transalta and he tells me Pocaterra is running 20% above average right now...so the question is will we be able to ford the Kananaskis River??? Atilla has forded it twice near Lorette in the past and it was knee to hip deep. So 20% above that could be interesting....

    What does the group think?

    One alternative is to switch and go for Gap Mtn/Mt Fable. Still some roped up alpine climbing but longer scrambling...

    July 5, 2013

  • Alex J.

    So the devil is in the details ;}

    Some of you don't have bikes so biking around to a bridge to cross the Kananaskis River is not an option...frankly we don't know if the bridge still exists or is accessible.

    This means fording the Kananaskis River if we can. Antilla has done it before near there and it has been near hip deep and cold.

    So we're trying to figure out if the river is running high or not.

    Stay tuned.

    Alternatives may be Mt Fable/Gap Mtn.

    July 5, 2013

  • Alex J.

    Attila has volunteered to lead a second party of three. I have added Paul K (who got cancelled on Saturday's trip due to weather) and Bastian you were next in line. Please confirm you are available for Sunday. Weather looking good!

    July 5, 2013

    • A former member
      A former member

      Hey mate, i am still keen!! looking forward to it!!

      July 5, 2013

  • Attila L.

    There is a possibility to make a second rope party????

    July 5, 2013

    • Attila L.

      Hi Alex. Yes, I am comfortable with that route and I can lead if is necessary. I have all equipment, but I don't have a partner. I can form a second party with one or two more participants. Also I have a bike too.

      July 5, 2013

    • Alex J.

      OK let's do it. I will add another two people.

      July 5, 2013

  • Pawel

    Hey guys, is anyone driving from the south to get to Shouldice Arena? I live near 17th Ave SW (21 Ave & 5a St) and would greatly appreciate a ride. I could cycle somewhere too, like Macleod Trail.

    July 5, 2013

  • Alex J.

    Weather looking good. Here's a video of the climb http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slzarS-Tkro

    July 5, 2013

  • Michael James C.

    Apologies for the late reply, but due to recent circumstances guy, I have to give it a miss.

    July 4, 2013

  • Alex J.

    Hwy 40 is open as far as we need to go on this one. And weather forecast looks much better today than yesterday. As it stands right now...this trip is a go. I have heard from Romain but not Michael. Let me know if you are still a go otherwise I will let the next person in line join.

    July 4, 2013

  • Alex J.

    Hi Romain, Michael, I tried emailing you to get your experience on difficult scrambles/climbing/lead belaying...drop me a note as to your experience. I need at least one of you to know how to lead belay. Thanks.

    June 7, 2013

6 went

Membership dues

CAD40.00 Before first outing

This covers: Club gear, subsidize training costs, Event Organizer incentives.

Payment is accepted using:

  • PayPal

Your organizer will refund you if:

  • Refunds will be offered at the discretion of the CSMC Executive and on a case by case basis.

Our Sponsors

People in this
Meetup are also in:

Sign up

Meetup members, Log in

By clicking "Sign up" or "Sign up using Facebook", you confirm that you accept our Terms of Service & Privacy Policy