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Mt Shasta via Sargents Ridge

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  • April[masked] This is not an entry level climb up Mt Shasta. This is a Class 3 Grade 2 Technical climb of Mt Shasta. Friday April 14 we will meet at Albertsons parking lot on south 3rd street to carpool south to Mt Shasta. Head south on highway 97, 4 hrs drive to the Bunny Flat area on the South side of Mt Shasta. We will car-camp or set up tents in the parking lot for the night. Saturday am awake and breakfast(egg/cheese/sausage bagels) & coffee at my truck. Get climb permits 25$ and begin ascent to our high camp. 

    We will climb/snowshoe/skin up +3,000' vert to our camp on Sargents Ridge at @ 10,000'. At camp we will set up tents and lunch then relax. Sometime in the late afternoon we will go over ice axe self arrest and movement through picket running belay. Dinner and sleep to follow. We will awake early @2 am for a 3 am departure. The bulk of the technical part of our climb will be in the predawn light high on the ridge. Sunrise for us should be around the Thumb or the Red Banks when we join the Avalanche gulch route.  We will continuing ascending the Avalanche Gulch route to the summit. Our descent will be on the Avalanche Gulch Route, down the valley then we will have to climb back up to our camp(+750'), pack and descend down to Bunny Flat. Sargents Ridge is one of the longest ridges on the mountain. It is nearly twice as long (and as technical as) the westerly Casaval Ridge. This will be a long and taxing day. Expect to be destroyed after this climb. Physically prepare yourself by starting a climbing workout routine now. Do not wait until April 2017. Typically it takes me 6 months of hard training to climb Mt. Rainier while still having fun and not being physically destroyed. When your super fit the climb will be fun and our descent out will be enjoyable on skis/snowboard/snowshoes. Back at Bunny Flat we will have a post climb cookout (brats/burgers/beer) at my truck then head home.

    Equipment List- Helmet,headlight,harness, belay/rappel device, 2 locking biners & 2 nonlocking biners, mountaineering boots, crampons, 3+liters of water in plastic bottles, 2 ice axes, stove (share with tentmate), cooking pot to melt water, 3-4 season tent, 2 sleeping pads (we will be sleeping on snow), 20 deg sleeping bag minimum, winter clothing, windproof clothing, 2-3 hats, 3-4 pairs of gloves, sunglasses or glacier goggles, sunscreen, food 1 lunch, 1 dinner, 1 breakfast,  plus snacks, camera, skis,snowboard, snowshoes for ascent/descent to/from high camp, avalanche beacon, probe and shovel.

    Equipment provided- Pickets, ropes, rescue beacon, medical kit.

    Equipment banned- Camelbacks, aluminium crampons, aluminium ice axes, lawnchairs.

    Requirements for this climb- Be a formal member of Cascades Mountaineers, join at www.orcm.org   You will have successfully climbed Mt Shasta before and Mt Hood in Oregon, or similar experience. You will send me a brief summary of your climbing experience before the climb including your full name and cellphone number. You will be very physically fit, Can you run 5 miles? Can you carry a 50lb backpack 10 miles? You will not be overweight, for men can you look down and see your penis without your gut blocking the view? If you can no longer see your dick (without mirrors) your overweight. You will also not be a whiner or bring drama to this climb.

    For detailed information on Sargents Ridge consult guidebooks  (The Mount Shasta Book), and read up on it at summitpost.org Study those pictures and make sure you will be comfortable on 45+degree snow slopes while traversing with 2,000' of air under your ass.

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