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Mt. Shasta climb

  • Jul 4, 2013 · 10:00 AM

Update May 12th: If you are on the waiting list I'm still waiting for a current climb resume. If I don't have one in a few days I'll remove you from the waiting list. End update

At 14,179 feet Mt. Shasta is one of the highest mountains in California. Please join me to climb it on the 4th of July weekend. We'll drive down on Thursday, climb Friday and Saturday and drive home on Sunday. At 14,000+ feet altitude becomes an issue. This way we'll have two days to acclimate on the way up.

 

We'll climb the Avalanche Gulch route which is the most popular and also fairly straightforward from what I can tell. I haven't climbed Shasta but will study up over the next month or so. It's not a technical climb but being so far from Portland and the elevation makes it a bit trickier. We'll start at the 6,950 foot level and from there will gain 7,300 feet. Similar to an Adams climb we'll gain much or the 7,300 feet on Friday, set up camp and summit on Saturday.


Equipment needed:

Crampons

Ice axe

 

Member requirements:

 

We'll build a climb team with a mixture of experienced and not so experienced climbers. My guess is that we'll cap the team at eight. Some snow climbing experience would be helpful but again, this is a non technical climb.

 

Cancellation policy:

Do not ask to be part of this climb if you might have a scheduling conflict. It seems to be a pattern for Meetup activities for people to sign up as place holders and then cancel in the last minute. If you are one of the people with that habit, this climb is not for you. No cancellations for other then medical emergencies after June 22nd.

There will be a mandatory pre climb meeting on June 25th.

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  • PJ

    Your pics really tell the story of the climb....congrats to you all!

    July 10, 2013

  • Dave

    Thank you Magnus! You pulled together an awesome team for an awesome climb! Over the years I've seen Mt. Shasta more times than I can count and each time wondered just how good the view from the top must be. This was a great team to climb with to find out with that yes, the view from the top is SPECTACULAR! Thanks team! Marc, our GPS stats are virtually identical!

    July 8, 2013

  • Dave G.

    Great job guys!

    July 8, 2013

  • Magnus

    Good things happen when Dave and I get together for a climb- thank you Dave- and this was no exception. Great team, perfect weather, and a near perfect assent. Altitude was absolutely a factor so we got off the summit and down to a lower altitude as quickly as we could. Nice way to spend a long weekend. Thanks everybody for a great climb.

    July 8, 2013

  • Michael M.

    This was a great climb with a solid group that executed and complimented each other very well. Good up front planning, proactive acclimatization and bluebird conditions made for smiles all around. Thanks Magnus and Dave!! There may be some hints of soreness today, but they are dampened by the sense of accomplishment. Great job everyone!

    July 7, 2013

  • Marc

    The following measurements are from my GPS. Bunny Flat to Helen Lake: 3.8 mi/4 hr 38 min/3490 ft ascent. Helen Lake to summit: 2.3 mi/6 hr 8 min/3680 ft ascent. Summit to Helen Lake: 2.2 mi/3 hr 55 min/3680 ft descent. Helen Lake to Bunny Flat: 3.8 mi/3 hr 24 min/3490 ft descent.

    July 7, 2013

  • Marc

    We had absolutely perfect weather for our climb to the Mt Shasta summit. I've climbed higher peaks, but I've never worked so hard to ascend (and descend) as I did on Mt Shasta! I was exhausted when we arrived back at the trailhead but was so pleased at what our team accomplished. Thanks so much to Magnus for leading the trip and for being flexible in allowing us extra time to enjoy the climb.

    July 7, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    Two things for the record:
    1) This meetup group is awesome, has better trips than others by a long shot.
    2) Some day, I'll actually be able to join one. Sooo jealous you're summiting Shasta!

    1 · July 3, 2013

  • Meryl L.

    Next year... Btw watch for ice fall. One of the SWS guides was choppered off last weekend when a block of ice fell...

    June 28, 2013

    • Dave

      BTW. Do you know what time of day it happened, early morning headed up or late morning headed down?

      June 30, 2013

    • Meryl L.

      I don't. Not sure if there's anything on the Sierra Wilderness Seminars website or not...

      June 30, 2013

  • Luke H.

    It is fairly melted out up there. Be wary of rock fall around the red banks.

    June 28, 2013

  • Dave

    Hi all, Here is a trip report at Summit Post with photos from May 2013 for Shasta. http://www.summitpost.org/just-a-weekend-trip-to-mt-shasta-cr-ag/849094

    June 25, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    so sad to miss this:(

    June 24, 2013

  • Connor

    Hey Magnus, just hopped on the waiting list! Noticed your message about climbing resumes, would you like me to send one??? Thanks!

    June 16, 2013

  • Jason

    are we going to need avy gear, or is the climb called off if those conditions arise?

    June 6, 2013

  • Dave

    Hi all,
    I found this Mt. Shasta climbing conditions report page and thought you might be interested.. http://www.shastaavalanche.org/advisories/advisories/accidents.

    There are also several good, and not so good, climb reports at the summit post site.

    http://www.summitpost.org/a-rookie-s-first-climb-what-i-learned-summiting-shasta/636441

    http://www.summitpost.org/against-all-hope-life-partnership-and-loss-on-mt-shasta/626323

    June 5, 2013

  • molly v.

    It looks like you've got a full crew, but if there's an opening, I would be thrilled to go. I came within 300 ft of the summit on Hotlum-Winton route but snow was softening quickly and we decided it best to turn around before the summit.

    May 12, 2013

  • Rick L. J.

    That's why we call him "The Navigator" . Its a well deserved title.

    May 10, 2013

  • Magnus

    Dave has agreed to assist with this climb. For those of you who don't know him, he's one of the most solid climbers in the group and an awesome navigator. Together we hope to build a great team for Shasta. Katya- We'll car pool for all my climbs. Shasta is very far away so we'll drive the fewest amount of cars we can.

    May 3, 2013

  • Katya

    Magnus, do you expect a carpool on this one, or will everyone have to have their own means of transportation?

    April 30, 2013

  • Magnus

    Deciding on the climb team will be tricky. I will open up the wait list today and pick the final team about 30 days before the climb.

    April 30, 2013

  • Alison D.

    This is exciting.

    April 29, 2013

  • Dave G.

    Hi Magnus,
    That's a fun climb. I was up there twice last year on the Avalanche Gulch route. The first time I turned back at the Red Banks due to weather. The second time I made it to the summit. The route is pretty straightforward. The summitpost website has good info on the route. Most people camp at Helen Lake (~10,000 feet), which is usually buried beneath a snow field. You may need to melt snow for water. Timing-wise it took me 4 hours to get from the trailhead to Helen Lake. I started for the summit at 4:00AM, and it took 6 hours to reach the summit. From the summit it took 2 1/2 hours to get back to Helen Lake, and from Helen Lake 3 hours to get back to trailhead. The route back to the trailhead from Helen Lake can get a little confusing because there are boot tracks everywhere, that was the only time I wished I brought my GPS.

    April 29, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    Magnus,
    I would like to be included in this climb

    April 29, 2013

  • marianne h.

    Great Magnum! I'm heading down to Shasta this Thur. Will be climbing/skinning/skiing. It will be my fifth time on the Mountain, 2 summit and 2 part-way. Would love to come down with you on the 4th.

    April 29, 2013

  • Michael M.

    I would be up for this as well. Great idea.

    April 29, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    Magnus, I definitely will go. Great to see it

    April 29, 2013

  • A former member
    A former member

    Magnus, Sounds Great, I will try to go

    April 29, 2013

  • Elinor

    Hi Magnus,
    As you know I have wanted to climb this one for years. There is a lot of great information out there about the routes. Bunny Flat is the place most people camp before starting the hike. It is a great camp ground. Also Mt Shasta Mountain Guides can give you some good info. Of course they will want to sell you on having one of them as a paid guide. Not that you have to do that however. They are located in Mt Shasta City and know the mountain. There are also some terrific restaurants and cheap places close by if people would rather not camp on Friday night. I am really glad to see you are posting this one.

    April 29, 2013

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