Mt. Jefferson 10,497' Climb

Oregon Alpine Project
Oregon Alpine Project
Public group
Location image of event venue


Mt. Jefferson is the most technical and most physical mountain in Oregon to climb. Significant recent climbing experience is a requirement to join us. You must have climbed Mt Hood, Mt Thielsen, Broken Top, and 2 of these 3, Three Fingered Jack, Mt Washington, or North Sister. Why do i need to know this? I need to know you are not afraid of heights (i am not a therapist) and you can climb with significant exposure. We will be climbing the SE Ridge of the mountain. This climb is going to be a total of 31 miles over 3 days with 7,000' of vertical gain. It is possible to walk out after summiting. I prefer a night of rest/celebration at camp before leaving next am....:)

This will be my third time leading a trip up Mt Jefferson and my 5th time on the mountain.

Climb Itinerary- Tuesday August 6 Meet at the Pamelia Lake TH at 7 am for our start. Be on time and packed ready to go! Group introductions then read and sign Oregon Alpine Project Liability waiver.

Day 1- Hike on the Pamelia lake trail, then PCT to Shale lake. Lunch at Shale lake. Hike to SE ridge. 11 miles total. Camp. This camp is one of the most beautiful locations in Central Oregon. We will be high on the SE ridge with amazing views!

Day 2- Ascend SE ridge to Red Saddle. This is sand, scree and scrambling. At Red Saddle we will break then helmets, harness, crampons and rope team up. Next we traverse on snow North and West under the summit. I will place pickets for our running belay every 30'. We will gain the North Ridge and follow a faint climbers trail back south. 35 meters under the summit i will place a fixed rope for the team. The team will ascend to the summit. We will descend via rappel off the summit to our fixed rope start. We will reverse and descend the route of ascent. Celebration back at camp! 9 miles total move distance.
Concerns- If the summit is shrouded in rime ice we will most likely turn back, because protection (ice screws) cannot be guaranteed to hold in rime ice. It is generally too dangerous for a medium sized group (8) to attempt when covered in rime ice. It can be climbed just not by me.

Day 3- Wake up and return to trail head early. 11 miles hike out.
BBQ cookout at my truck! Beers, burgers, brats! Tip Your Cook! OAP hats for sale!

Equipment list-
headlight, helmet, sunglasses or glacier goggles, sunscreen, sun hat, warm hat
puffy coat, wind coat, fleecy layer, base layer
2-3 pair gloves- light, medium, heavy
softshell pants, wind pants
summer weight mountaineering boots, crampons which fit- no strap on crampons- clip on only!
Harness, 2 locking pearabiners, 2 nonlocking carabiners, personal safety cordelette, rappel/belay device.
1-ice axe- straight shaft short to medium length
3 liters water
trekking poles
backpack, sleeping bag, sleeping pad(s)
tent- share it
stove- 1 per tent, cooking pot
food- 2 brekky, 2 dinner, 2 lunch, snacks
water filter- 1 per tent
camera, toiletries

Equipment Provided-
1 rope 70 meter dynamic-you carry
pickets 7-8 minimum
slings for anchors
medical kit
rescue beacon (ACR link)

Optional Equipment-
gps, GoPro, small trail gaiters