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Getting ready for… Wapta Icefield trip... Glacier travel basics

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Glacier travel basics

“The more you know, the less you need!” – Yves Chouinard … or carry :)

These three sessions are for Wapta Icefield trip participants (the go list and the waiting list)! If somehow you cannot make it or you know already this information please RSVP “No” and I will try to fill your spot with somebody else.

Important Notice:

This event is a practice/learning session and not a course by a qualified instructor. As I am not an expert, I encourage you to take courses by qualified instructors before embarking on trips of your own.

Location: TBD

Date: January 29th, 2013 - 6:30 PM

#1. Glacier travel basics

- Glacier morphology

- Choosing a safe route (recognize and avoid hazards)

- Bad weather navigation procedures

- Rope use for glaciers (rope up, rope management, etc.)

- Movement on snow and ice

- Equipment for glaciers

- Knots

#2. Crevasse rescue basics – (“dry” session)

#3. Glacier travel and crevasse rescue outdoor practice

In mountaineering and special when you travel on glaciers, your safety and life may depend on your partners. Lots of practice, training, proper understanding of the equipment and procedures will get you and your partners up to the top and back to the car safe and sound!

Items required for all sessions (this will be your crevasse rescue kit too).

!!! We will not require the ice screw on the indoor sessions!

- 2*6mm cord in 160cm lengths ( to make 60cm prussik loops)

- 1*6mm cord in 200cm length (to make an 80cm prussik loop)

- 1*6mm in 5m length

*** look for the 6mm Mammut cord at MEC – I recommend the yellow and green types as they are softer and will provide a better grip. The red cord is stiffer. Also you may find useful to get the prussiks in two different colors (one color for the 160cm and one color
for the 200cm).

- Climbing harness

- 1 pear shape (Munter) carabiner or autolocking carabiner

- 3 “D” shape locking carabiners

- 2 non-locking carabiners

- 1 * 60cm long nylon sling (18mm)

- 2*30 cm long nylon slings (18mm)

- 1*22cm ice screw (the ones with the cranking handles – Petzl Charlet lasser speed )

*** also you may find useful to get the slings in two different colors (one color for the 60cm and one color for the 30cm)