Birding and Views: Government Cove Peninsula, Columbia River Gorge

You've probably zipped right by this spot near Cascade Locks and never knew there was a giant Zen rock garden hidden in there. Government Cove Peninsula boasts a circuitous maze of tiny trails that twist around rocky outcroppings, snake along the mighty Columbia, and serve up exceptional panoramic views of the gorge from sunny basalt promontories two hundred feet high.

It's foot traffic only and not simple to get to, so it's typically empty and quiet except for the occasional fisherman. An easy 0.5 mi. lollipop loop of paved road ventures in and then quickly back out of it but a deeper explore reveals about 2 more miles of side trails leading to nooks and crannies and magnificent overlooks.

Everything from raptors to coots, swans to mergansers, stop off here. Eagle Island at the mouth of the cove typically has its namesake perched somewhere in the trees while the eastern arm of the cove collects waterfowl of all shapes and sizes. I've seen rafts of coots 3000+-strong! Dense thickets of alder and blackberry turn pure gold in the autumn sun and host myriad migratory species in between stands of deep green fir and pine. Golden-mantled ground squirrels and bunnies are usually afoot and sometimes deer, too.

We'll meet at the front gate and hike straight to one of the lower overlooks, then double back and rise to the highest one for a total of about 1.25 miles (including the return trip to the parking area). Some sections are steep and rocky, so trekking poles are recommended. We'll sit on the rocks a bit and enjoy the view, weather permitting, then investigate birds by using the side trails. You are welcome to linger or head out early, the island is tiny and all trails lead back to the gate on a narrow isthmus. No restroom on site, but lots of cover (wink, wink) (see note below about restrooms in Wyeth).

DIRECTIONS: Most maps will send you on a long, tedious route through the town of Cascade Locks to get there from Portland. Trust me, it's much simpler to just overshoot it on the highway by a few miles, turn around at Wyeth, and take a westbound off-ramp that drops you right at the entrance.

So, from Interstate 84 east, take exit 51 into Wyeth. Hang a left under the highway and hop right back onto 84 going west towards Portland. Take the very next exit 47, turn right at the stop sign, cross the railroad tracks, and park on the gravel pull offs on either side of the road on the outside of the metal gate. Look for my deep blue Honda CRV. No parking fee.

To get back to Portland from there, reverse this process by taking 84 back to Wyeth and then the westbound ramp back to Portland. You can alternatively drive down the Frontage Road that snakes you through Cascade Locks.

RESTROOMS near Wyeth: When you get off eastbound 84 at exit 51 and come to the stop sign at the bottom of the ramp in Wyeth, turn right and then right again to get on Herman Creek Road. Go 0.25 miles and turn left into the Wyeth Trailhead of the Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail where there's a big paved parking lot with restrooms. Potable water on site.

Bring $10 cash, water, snacks/lunch, binoculars/spotting scope, camera, WEATHER appropriate clothing in layers, and trekking poles. Adults only, please, and no pets, thanks.