Mastering the Set In Sleeve

Have you ever started sewing a shirt, only to stall when you reach the sleeves? You're not alone! Set-in sleeves—sewn in the round with the sleeve cap larger than the armscye—can be tricky to ease in smoothly. And let’s be honest, no one likes puckers!

After plenty of practice (and patience), I’ve learned how to tackle set-in sleeves with confidence. Now, I’m excited to share my best tips to make the process easier and more rewarding. The set-in sleeve is the most polished and flattering sleeve style, reducing drag lines and excess fabric in the shoulder area. It’s a skill well worth mastering!

For this demonstration, I’ll bring a partially constructed shirt with the bodice sides and shoulder seams sewn, and the sleeves prepped with finished seams and cuffs. We’ll start by examining the pattern markings, then I’ll demonstrate ease stitching on the sleeve head and guide you through attaching the sleeve to the garment.

Once your sleeve is in place—pucker-free!—we’ll explore finishing techniques to elevate the final look. We’ll also discuss when and how to add structure to the sleeve head for garments that need a bit more body.
Let’s make set-in sleeves a skill you’ll conquer with confidence!

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