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Exploring Smith Rock, Oregon

The Place

Smith Rock is Oregon’s premier rock climbing destination, and one of the best sport climbing areas in the United States with over 1800 routes, so I'm sure we'll find plenty to do.
http://www.smithrock.com/
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/smith-rock/105788989

The Plan

We're heading up Saturday so we can get an early start Sunday morning and explore and climb all day. We're then going to camp there, and continue climbing Monday before heading out.

Getting there: Smith Rock State Park is located in the town of Terrebonne, Oregon. Take Smith Rock Drive East off of Hwy. 97 in Terrebonne, then take a left on 17th Street, a right on Wilcox Ave, and finally a left on Crooked River Drive to the main parking lot. Apparently it's pretty easy to find.

Driving time: Smith Rock State Park is approximately 6-7 hours from Seattle.

We're aiming for a 9 a.m start Sunday morning. Meet at the parking lot if you haven't run into us at the camp ground Saturday evening.

The Climbing

We're looking at sport climbs in the 5.6 to 5.10 range. If anyone has any suggestions/recommendations feel free.

The Essentials: Harness and shoes. Water and sunblock. Camping gear if joining us for that (warning, it'll be getting cold at night so be prepared for that)

The Useful Additions: Slings, quickdrawers, rope, helmet, slings, carabiners, anchors, chalk, cams and nuts would be handy. And the guides also recommend stick clips and a commitment to using them regardless of your opinion on them.

The Camping

There is a $5.00/car fee to use Smith Rock that can be paid for at the kiosk in the main parking lot. The Smith Bivy area which is adjacent to the park-- look for the sign just before the main parking lot. There are bathrooms, water, and a cooking area; no fires are allowed. Be aware this is tent camping only - you cannot sleep in your vehicles.

The Future

We're planning on a longer trip in April 2013, so this is a chance to pop down there, take a look and see what's what (and it'll give us an idea of what aspects to focus on during the winter gym climbing months, and what gear to ask Santa for).

Communications


I'll email all the rsvp-ers nearer the date and we can trade numbers to ensure late arrivals or lostee's (it happens, and because of the distances to be travelled I'm sure some will be early, some will be late) can locate us or catch up or get directions (if I don't reply immediately give it a little while, I might be climbing, belaying someone, or just out of breath from hiking).


In the lot, look for the champagne colored Toyota Corola with the 'LA County Coroner' sticker. At the crags look for the Union Jack painted climbing helmet.

Final Note: People inevitably take pictures and it is awesome to do so, but just in case....
- No pictures: If you are adverse to or just don't like your picture being taken please let us know so that should we see someone taking your picture we can promptly ask them not to. Also, feel free to ask those with a lens pointed at you to stop should that be your preference. We're all here to have fun, and if that's going to encroach on that don't hesitate to let members know.


- No posting of pictures: In addition, if you don’t want your picture posted on this MeetUp site, email me and I’ll delete any that pop up and I'll inform the contributor of this members wishes for future reference (if I miss any, again, email me and tell me which one/s).

- No external posting of pictures: And lastly, if you are okay with MeetUp use but adverse to any other usage, also email me and I’ll contact the contributor and let them know that the relevant image/s are not to be posted or shared anywhere save on this MeetUp.


This can't be enforced to the degree of a guarantee, but we ask all attendees to respect peoples wishes.


Otherwise we assume that everyone is okay with having their awesome-ness captured for posterity.

Join or login to comment.

  • Mike

    This trip was awesome but my phone died and I missed the other meetup folk! Hope you guys had fun too!

    October 23, 2012

  • Bruce M.

    Fabulous location, great climbing, fun people. Will definately come back for more.

    October 23, 2012

  • Bruce M.

    Raining oodles. Place is soaked and it's going to continue. Calling it quits. Thanks to all who came. It was brilliant

    October 22, 2012

  • Mike

    Sorry I never found you guys. Phone died and no charger. Had a good couple days but back home in Seattle now. Have fun out there!!

    October 22, 2012

    • Erin H

      No worries. Glad you had fun, Mike!

      October 22, 2012

  • Bruce M.

    We'll be at the green yurt monday at 9am. Then heading down and right, and following the river round to Adit Rock. Some highly rated sport routes.

    October 21, 2012

  • Erin H

    We're at picnic lunch wall just acriss the bridge, heading to Adit Rock a little later on.

    October 21, 2012

  • Mike

    Heading down where are folks climbing?

    October 21, 2012

  • Erin H

    Bruce and I are parked in the parking area along the main road, past the green yurt. Look for a champagne colored Toyota Corolla wagon near the end of the parking area - this place is surprisingly full of people!

    October 21, 2012

  • Nick P.

    Just finished..give me a call. number listed above

    October 20, 2012

  • Mike

    I'm just here. Grabbing food and heading down. Where's everyone climbing now?

    October 20, 2012

  • A former member
    A former member

    RunnIng a bit behind. Got stuck in bend last night

    October 20, 2012

  • Nick P.

    Ok..I'm on my way down with Jim. Ten in the morning might be a little late to get first pick of the areas. Jim and I plan on heading out at eight fifteen from the parking lot by the showers. If your up to join us we'll be going to Morning Glory first. Feel free to call or text me. [masked]

    October 19, 2012

  • Damon

    Looks like I won't be able to take a day off Monday after all. And since I can't leave until Saturday I'm gonna try for Vantage instead. Hope to see you all at a future Meetup!

    October 19, 2012

  • Nick P.

    Jim, sounds good.You can call or text me. When you have time.my text went to a land line or something.

    October 18, 2012

  • Nick P.

    Jim, when are you planning on hearing down to Smith?

    October 18, 2012

    • Jim B.

      I get off work at 3, and could leave anytime after 4. Also, I have a 2-man tent if you want to share.

      October 18, 2012

  • A former member
    A former member

    Starting to get a good ammount of people on for Saturday, anyone want to pick a time to meet at the parking lot, and maybe the first area for any straglers to catch up at? I'm thinking 10 and Morning Glory area, but I'm easily to convince otherwise.

    October 18, 2012

  • Greg

    Has anyone been following the forecast for the weekend? It sucks Saturday high of 48 with a 30% chance of rain. Lows in the 20s. The high for Sunday is 50 with a chance of a little sun.

    October 17, 2012

    • Greg

      The forecast is better today. Am showers and some sun and a high of 50. So if the sun is out it will be fine but rather cold if not. So I guess it is worth a try. What time do you plan to be there Saturday morning?

      October 18, 2012

    • A former member
      A former member

      I'll get to the bivoc area late friday. So I figure a leisurely 10 or so start, though I'm fine with later too. With the cold and morning showers that might be about as early as is doable anyways.

      October 18, 2012

  • Damon

    Looks like temperatures are plunging everywhere towards the weekend, and Smith Rock especially (73 today, 50 on Sat)...

    October 18, 2012

  • Nick P.

    I can do this if I can carpool and share gas costs with someone Friday early evening..for climbing on Sat and Sun. I'm in Tacoma with my pooch Buster. [masked] -1309 I was there last weekend and know the area.*Seattle library has a copy of the guide book* still looking for a ride or a rider. Thanks

    October 16, 2012

    • Jim B.

      I'll be coming from the Kitsap Peninsula, and also can only go for the weekend. We could meet up in Tacoma. [masked]

      October 16, 2012

  • A former member
    A former member

    so who's going to be out there Saturday, and how does everyone want to meet up? My plan is to drive down with a friend at 4:30 friday evening and drop her off at her friends house she wants to visit. I'll be staying at the Bivoc area. I'd hate to get down there and not have anyone to climb with all day Sat. cause we all just missed each other.
    Guess the easiest way is give me a call or text and let me know when / where you'd be down for climbing. My number is[masked]

    October 16, 2012

    • Mike

      hey man. i'll be headed down early early sat morn and have a few friends with me so we can certainly meet up to climb on sat. i have a blue mazdaspeed3 with thule bike racks on it.

      October 16, 2012

    • Greg

      I will be there Saturday. Not sure if I will head down Friday night or Saturday morning. 1000 is easy enough I could be there earlier if needed but it is going to be cold in the morning if the current forecast holds, clouds. So not much sense if getting there too early. Can meet at the climbers lot. I have a blue Ford Focus.

      October 16, 2012

  • Will

    Still on the fence and still own no camping gear. I'm seeing rain on Monday down there on my phone? What's the word?

    October 10, 2012

    • Bruce M.

      because Erin and I won't be getting there until the evening we're also considering getting a motel Saturday night rather than trying to set up in the dark as the temperature plummets and then we can camp with ease Sunday night. It's dry all week which is the good part, and we're at 20% Sunday and Monday which we've seen at 38 and Vantage and so far it hasn't amounted to more than a bit of drizzle or a quick shower. Even if it does dampen the climbing, we can hike around, scope the place out and pick destinations and weed out less desireable ones for next season.

      October 14, 2012

    • KarimG

      Damon, this is not like Tieton ;) We've slept pretty well, just need to have a warm enough sleeping bag!

      October 15, 2012

  • A former member
    A former member

    I have to be back at work on monday. I was planning to head down Friday after work, climb Sat and Sunday, then return on Sunday evening. I have a car so let me know if anyone else wants to do this.

    October 11, 2012

    • Natasha W.

      I'm interested in joining, but in a similar predicament -- work calls on Monday. I generally work until 5-6PM on Fridays, but would be down to head out from there and set up in the dark. If that wont work for you, I also have a car, so no worries.

      October 13, 2012

    • A former member
      A former member

      probably head out of the city around 5 or 5:30. I need to coordinate with another friend as well. If carpooling doesn't work, I'll be ready to climb saturday morning, we'll just have to exchange info so we can find each other and whomever else is going to be there saturday.

      October 14, 2012

  • Nick P.

    The motel 6 is close by. 66 dollars a night for two..69 dollars a night for three.72 for four.. pretty cheap . Pets are allowed too. I don't have a tent either. Did anyone have a community sized tent? A loaner?

    October 14, 2012

  • KarimG

    Bruce: I just got back from Smith Rock, its realllllly nice. Be prepared for some perfect warm days and some very cold nights. I had a 15F bag and it was ok. You can rent the guide book, its a 5 mins ride from the campsite in a gear shop. I suggest you also rent one clip stick, first bolts are sometimes very high. Camping @ Bivy : There is showers, and yes there is hot water =P

    http://www.smithrock.com/routes/dihedrals/index.html , there is plenty of 5.7 to 5.10's and some crazy stuff.

    Rope de Dope Wall is nice to start with also, but I wouldn't spend the whole day there.

    I did Moscow, 3 pitch trad 5.7, it gets you to the top and you can hike towards Monkey Face, and its a nice little hike because you can see a few glaciers and the rock formation. You can always just hike up, trails are obvious. I might join you guys, otherwise have fun !

    Karim

    October 8, 2012

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