April 5, 2012
Under 2 years
Lived in Hawaii as a young kid but moved before had chance to learn to surf - but never forgot the beauty of Ocean.
looks like a 7 foot board
Venice Beach pier
The Ocean is such a great metaphor for life - mysterious yet simple, beautiful yet dangerous, relentless but if respected, can be highly enjoyable etc. Moved out here about two years ago...still learning how to do it right :)