Let's Climb Snowfield, Paul Bunyan, Colonial and Pyramid Peaks- Advanced Skills


Details
Place marker for this multi-day trip in NCNP. Conditions permitting, I am looking for a strong team of 8-12
Join the waitlist to be confirmed
Towering at 8351 feet, Snowfield Peak is the highest peak for our plan. With about 14 miles roundtrip and over 7300 feet gain Snowfield will take up one full day of the planned three day trip.
Camp sites at 5400 feet or at Colonial Basin. TBD
Snowfield approach via the Neve Glacier.
We can climb as many peaks as possible and safe.
Paul Bunyans Stump (PBS) is the highest peak along the western edge of the Colonial Glacier. It is part of the trio of peaks, including PBS (7480), Pinnacle (7360) and Pyramid (7182), creating a stunning backdrop above the Colonial Glacier. PBS (is visible from Highway 20 and appears between Colonial Peak (7771) and Pyramid Peak as a steep, rocky, flat-topped mountain with a narrow wedge-shaped summit ridge.
Just before Covid, I climbed Pyramid and Colonial, and stopped shy of PBS.
PBS route: similar to the corkscrew route on Sloan peak in that it winds all the way around the mountain before reaching the summit. It starts north of the peak, passes under the east face, ascends the south face and ends on the west face.
From the Colonial Glacier ascend west or southwest to reach the col below the south face of Paul Bunyans. Ascend class 2 slabs and rocky benches weaving around or through clumps of small trees and bushes, then grass higher up. In the early season or winter, this may all be covered in snow.
The upper section is steep if not overhanging and is completely avoided by traversing around to the west face.
Ascend roughly 20 or 30 feet inside the central gully and then either scramble up the lighter rock on the left (class 3) or move out onto the darker rock to the right (east) which remains mainly class 2 with careful route finding. At the top of the middle section, below the upper cliffs, arrive at a corner at the western edge of the face.
Estimated Schedule:
Meet at Ashway Park and Ride in Lynnwood at 8:00am Thursday.
Depart to Marbelmount Ranger Station and meet there to pick up permits and short break.
Depart to the trailhead which is about 20 minutes away
Hike up to the high campsite
Set up camp
Alpine start or early Friday g start depending on campsite location and length of trail remaining to the summit- group decision when we get to the campsite
Sunday: Return, breakup tents, and hike back down to the trailhead
Drive back to the Seattle area arriving around 9 pm Sunday evening
Gear:
Glacier ropes plus climbing rope if possible
Glacier gear- harness, ice ax, prusiks, carabiners, belay device, helmet, cams, hexes, etc.
Boots and gaiters
Crampons and microspikes
Pickets
Maps, ten essentials, personal meds and items, food and water for the duration, bug protection, sun protection, wind protection.
Camping gear- tent, pad, sleeping bag
At least one Nalgene bottle per person, Stoves and fuel, Filters, and shovels
Very likely we will glissade on this hike and you can bring rain pants
Driving There:
Coordinate carpooling and drive to Marblemount Ranger Station
Pyramid Lake Trailhead:
The standard approach is via the Pyramid Lake/Peak Trail.

Let's Climb Snowfield, Paul Bunyan, Colonial and Pyramid Peaks- Advanced Skills