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Mt. Shasta Green Butte Ridge

Mt. Shasta Green Butte Ridge. We will attempt to summit Shasta via the Green Butte Ridge / Sargents Ridge route. This route is new to SMC, and is thought to be more difficult, both technically and in terms of routefinding, than Casaval Ridge. For this reason, the trip is limited to experienced climbers who have climbed Shasta before and meet all skills requirements. Anyone joining this event should understand that this is an exploratory climb and the chances of summiting are lower than on other routes. The event is rated SIG 2, RCK 1, MTN 2.  Maximum 9 climbers.

SMC events are only for SMC members! Not a member yet? Join here.

WANNA GO? PLEASE JOIN THE INTEREST LIST AT THE SMC WEBSITE: http://www.sierramountaineeringgroup.org/events/165/smc-mt-shasta-green-butte-ridge

How RSVPs work: Please join the interest list on our official website - see link above. RSVPs from this list will first be considered for members who are signed off on the appropriate proficiencies, secondly to members who have completed the training courses for these proficiencies, and lastly to all other members who can otherwise be determined as qualified by the event leaders. All RSVPs are subject to the event leader review and final approval. www.sierramountaineeringgroup.org/events is the only place to join the interest list for official climbing events. Please note: We do not RSVP or allow waitlists on Meetup. Because of our settings, official events will always be listed as full on Meetup! It is only full when we have reached our maximum number, as posted above. Because this event occurs on public lands it is open to the public.

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THE DETAILS

Dates: Saturday April 19 - Sunday April 20, 2014

Location: Mt. Shasta 14,162, Northern California

Route: Green Butte Ridge

Technical rating: SIG2  MTN2

Fitness and Difficulty Level: Difficult

Max Elevation: 14,100 ft

Starting Elevation: 7,000 ft

Weather: NOAA Forecast for Mt. Shasta

WANNA GO? PLEASE JOIN THE INTEREST LIST AT THE SMC WEBSITE:http://www.sierramountaineeringgroup.org/events/165/smc-mt-shasta-green-butte-ridge

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ITINERARY

Saturday, April 19: Meetup early at the Walmart parking lot and carpool to the Ranger Station in Mount Shasta City to get our permits and on to the Bunny Flat trailhead. Everyone will need a summit permit in order to climb. From there, we will gain Green Butte Ridge from the southwest and climb the lower ridge to about 10,200. We will dig a solid basecamp and spend the rest of the day scouting the upper ridge and marking the route so we can follow it in the dark the next morning. In the evening, we will discuss the conditions and route and arrange rope teams and functions for next day.

Sunday, April 20: We will start a couple of hours before sunrise, aiming to arrive at the crux section just as it gets light enough to see. The crux comes right after Green Butte Ridge merges with Sargents Ridge, and involves crossing the ridge crest from east to west. This section may involve traversing 50+ degree slopes, climbing steep gullies, and possibly loose class 3-4 rock. Routefinding may be tricky, and we may encounter some dead ends before we find the right way. We will carry ropes and pickets and set up running or stationary belays if needed. After crossing the ridge, we will climb past Thumb Rock up Misery Hill and to the summit. We will descend the same route if snow conditions look safe. If not, we will descend Avalanche Gulch and re-climb the west side of the ridge to get back to our camp. We will bring enough food and fuel for a second night at the high camp in case we come back too late or too exhausted.  However, plan A is to take down the camp, descend the ridge to the trailhead, and drive back to Sacramento on Sunday night.


WANNA GO? PLEASE JOIN THE INTEREST LIST AT THE SMC WEBSITE:http://www.sierramountaineeringgroup.org/events/165/smc-mt-shasta-green-butte-ridge

__________________________________________________

REQUIRED CLOTHING, EQUIPMENT AND GEAR

Need more detailed descriptions?

Clothing

  • 2 pair wicking, breathable baselayers, top and bottom
  • Insulating, weather-resistant mid-layer, top and bottom
  • Wind and waterproof shell layer, top and bottom
  • Insulating fill jacket
  • 2 pair socks, liners
  • Mountaineering boots
  • Lightweight liner gloves
  • Waterproof gloves or mittens
  • Glacier sunglasses
  • Warm hat - the touque!
  • Sun hat
  • Balaclava

Equipment

  • 40 - 60 liter pack. Everyone must leave room for group gear.
  • Trekking poles with snow baskets
  • Shelter, or share group shelter
  • Minimum 15-degree sleeping bag
  • Sleeping pad
  • Mug / bowl and spoon
  • Food
  • Water bottles or containers. Water bladders not recommended in freezing weather.
  • Headlamp w/extra batteries
  • Compass, GPS also recommended if available
  • Map
  • Sunscreen
  • Camera, extra batteries
  • Small knife
  • Personal items, medications
  • Emergency items - keep it small.
  • Snow shovel if you have one

Gear

  • Lightweight mountaineering harness
  • Hard shell mountaineering helmet
  • Mountain axe
  • Crampons, fit to your boots
  • 2 large locking carabiners
  • 24” loop sewn runner sling or 5-6mm cord tied with a grapevine knot
  • Two 48” loop sewn runner slings or 9/16" webbing tied with a water knot
  • Snowshoes

Group items provided by SMG

  • Three 30m ropes, several pickets, assorted slings and cordage, locking carabiners
  • First Aid kit
  • Snow shovel
  • Tents
  • Stoves, pots, and enough fuel to melt water for 2 days and 2 nights
  • Radios

For help in selecting the appropriate item, please refer to the SMC Detailed Clothing, Equipment and Gear List

WANNA GO? PLEASE JOIN THE INTEREST LIST AT THE SMC WEBSITE:http://www.sierramountaineeringgroup.org/events/165/smc-mt-shasta-green-butte-ridge

__________________________________________________

For more information or questions, please contact the listed event leaders, or Darren Shutt, Mountaineering Director at [masked], (916)[masked] or Phil Montanes, Managing Director (916)[masked]

SMC: Connect, Learn & Climb

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  • David

    Great trip, lots of great pictures, and good times. Thanks Art for putting this one together. I'm looking forward to climbing with you all again.

    1 · April 29, 2014

  • Erica

    Thanks everyone for all your patience, gear loaning, platform digging, water boiling, photo taking, and general inspiring! This is the hardest thing I've ever done, and I wouldn't have made it up without you.

    1 · April 21, 2014

    • Art

      You did great. Trust me, this is not the route most Shasta first-timers would take!

      April 24, 2014

  • Dagmar

    Great weekend. Thank you Art for putting this together. Thank you all for a fun company.

    April 24, 2014

  • Darren S.

    Green Butte team, congratulations on your summit. That took some grit, but you all got it done! Looking forward to a trip report.

    2 · April 21, 2014

  • Art

    I have somebody's green non-locking biner. It came on one of my pickets.

    April 21, 2014

  • Art

    Everybody - thank you very much for a great climb! I am glad we took the gamble and attempted this route despite what we knew would be marginal conditions. The gamble paid off, we had some nice scenery, and it was a pleasure to climb with such great people. And David - thanks for the Gatorade!

    2 · April 21, 2014

    • Wayne

      Right on. Sounds like you guys got a window on Sunday then. Congratulations. Were all looking forward to seeing the pics and hearing more about the climb.

      1 · April 21, 2014

  • Erica

    For those folks leaving Saturday morning, would anyone be interested in a 4:15 phone check-in? I am a little concerned about my ability to wake up at the 4 am alarm.

    1 · April 17, 2014

    • Erica

      Hi David, I can give you a ride. I'm coming from 21 and N.

      April 18, 2014

    • Erica

      My phone is[masked] for all people coming from Sacramento area.

      April 18, 2014

  • Gergo B.

    Would anybody want to carpool, leaving Sacramento Friday after 6PM and camping out at Bunny flat trailhead? I'd like to have an extra night at 7000ft.

    April 10, 2014

    • David

      I have Monday off already so not in a rush to get back.

      April 10, 2014

    • David

      Gergo, something came up and I will not be able to leave Friday night. I will have to meet you guys there's early Saturday morning. If I can get out in time I might be able to get there super later Friday night.

      April 16, 2014

  • Art

    OK guys, let's talk carpools. Last I heard: Gergo, David, and Art are camping at Bunny Flat Friday night and all 3 can stay for Monday if needed. Dagmar driving alone from San Diego and can stay Monday - when are you arriving? Taylor, Scott, and Erica - what are your plans?

    April 14, 2014

    • Dagmar

      I'm arriving Friday night.

      April 14, 2014

    • A former member
      A former member

      If at all possible I want to get back sunday night/ monday morning to the Bay. I can drive. If anyone wants to be back to SAC or the Bay by that time let me know!

      April 14, 2014

  • David

    Well if we all get there Friday night, we could get an alpine start Saturday morning, bag green butte, then hit cassaval ridge Sunday. Haha, maybe I'm being ambitious.

    April 14, 2014

  • Dagmar

    Art, I'll meet you at Bunny Flats at the parking lot. I have a very green Jeep wrangler. What time do you think you will get there?

    April 14, 2014

  • Scott A.

    I got some pictures from this weekend of this route. I will post them later today. It looks like it's in great condition.

    April 8, 2014

    • Art

      Wonderful. The Shasta climbing advisory site also says both ridges are in shape. We just need it to hold for 10 more days!

      April 8, 2014

    • Scott A.

      I thought I took more photos of Green Butte but this was all I could find: http://www.meetup.com...­

      April 10, 2014

  • A former member
    A former member

    Would anyone want carpool? Im coming from East Bay. I have a car (subaru legacy) and can take others but it doesn't have a large trunk

    April 8, 2014

    • Gergo B.

      I took Monday and Tuesday off work just in case. I don't mind driving or riding with somebody else from Folsom. Art, do you guys have enough tents for this trip? My UL3 won't hold up in high winds.

      April 10, 2014

    • Art

      For carpooling purposes, I am up for staying on Monday if necessary. We have enough mountaineering tents but it might be worthwhile to bring yours just for the Bunny Flat night, then leave it in the car.

      April 10, 2014

  • David

    Art, referencing Gergo's post below, what are we doing for tents? I have a bomber two man tent. The same goes for stoves and fuel. I have a whisperlite and a couple of large fuel bottles. Just let us know what all we need to bring. Is anyone else planning on bringing skis?

    April 10, 2014

    • Art

      I have been compiling all the info. Yes, we have enough of everything, including 4-season tents and liquid-fuel stoves. We'll want lots of fuel on this one. I will send out an email with gear requests from everyone.

      April 10, 2014

  • Dagmar

    I'm driving from San Diego. I will not carpool as I'm planning on doing Shastina on Mo or Tue. I have an extra day for Shasta if needed

    April 10, 2014

  • Erica

    Any specific skills we should review before this trip? (ie which knots)

    April 9, 2014

    • David

      It will really depend on if we rope up for this climb, but if we do, you should know figure-eight on a bight, figure-eight follow through, apline butterfly knot, klemheist, prusik, clove hitch, munter hitch, double fisherman's and probably the kiwi coil for knots. You should know basically how to self arrest, belay, and move as a rope team. If we dont rope up, know how to self arrest and you should be fine. Check out the route at http://www.summitpost...­

      April 9, 2014

    • Art

      In the interests of time, we will all solo if at all possible. But we will carry ropes and pickets in case soloing is not safe. If we rope up, we will most likely use running belays - so please review how to clip past protection efficiently.

      April 9, 2014

  • Lindella

    Unfortunately I can't get that Monday off of work. Have fun you guys! :(

    March 13, 2014

7 went

  • Art
    SMC EVENT LEADER,
    Event Host
  • Scott A.
    SMC EVENT LEADER, BOARD OF DIRECTORS,
    Event Host
  • Gergo B.
    SMC EVENT LEADER
  • David
    SMC EVENT LEADER
  • Erica
    Until 11/24/17 LEGACY MEMBER
  • A former member

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