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Mt. Stuart, WA

  • May 18, 2014 · 8:00 PM
  • This location is shown only to members

MT. STUART. Three amazing routes and a week climbing with the club on a giant Central Cascades icon. Maximum 10. This event is rated up to MTN 3, RCK 3, SIG 3. For current SMC members only. SMC events are only for SMC members! Not a member yet? Join here.


How RSVPs work: Please join the interest list on our official website - see link above. RSVPs from this list will first be considered for members who are signed off on the appropriate proficiencies, secondly to members who have completed the training courses for these proficiencies, and lastly to all other members who can otherwise be determined as qualified by the event leaders. Teams will be selected in early 2014. All RSVPs are subject to the event leader review and final approval. is the only place to join the interest list for official climbing events. Please note: We do not RSVP or allow waitlists on Meetup. Because of our settings, official events will always be listed as full on Meetup! It is only full when we have reached our maximum number, as posted above. Because this event occurs on public lands it is open to the public. 



Dates: Sunday, May 18th - Sunday, May 25th, 2014

Location: Mt. Stuart 9,415 Enchantments / Stuart Range, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Central Cascades, WA

Routes: Stuart Glacier Couloir 5.6, AI2, Grade III , Snow / Ice 60-80 deg. MTN 3, SIG 3, RCK 3.

Routes: Ice Cliff Glacier, Grade III, Snow / Ice to 55 deg. MTN 3, SIG 2

Routes: Sherpa Glacier, Grade II, Snow to 40 deg. SIG 1. Will be used as descent for all routes.

For SMC Proficiencies: Up to MTN 3, RCK 3, SIG 3 

Fitness and Difficulty Level: Very Difficult

Map: Enchantments / Mt. Stuart Zone USFS Topo Map 




This expedition is possibly our most ambitious club climb of the year. We're going earlier in the season to hopefully catch safer conditions on the noted couloir routes. As such, it will be pretty wintry and cold still in the Cascades, and winter mountaineering conditions should be anticipated. 

Given the general uncertainty of northwest weather and a wide variety of possible route conditions, we will prepare for three routes that can all be ascended from the same base camp on the north side of Mt. Stuart. From climber's left to right, they increase in difficulty and seriousness (see above). The hope is that with a week on hand, we'll be able to get everyone to the top on at least one of them. Rope teams and leaders for specific routes will be identified in 2014.

This expedition will require experienced climbers who have shown they are a reliable and competent team member in technical terrain. In addition, everyone will need to secure flights or drive to WA. We will share the costs of permits and any other expedition expenses. Those that are selected will need to meet these parameters, in addition to a committment to have completed skills training and be in ideal physical shape before departure.

SUNDAY, MAY 19TH: Fly Alaska Airlines / Horizon into Wenatchee WA Pangborn Airport on the 11:50 pm flight 2134, and stay the night in East Wenatchee at a private home. 

MONDAY, MAY 19TH: Early in the morning we'll be shuttled about an hour into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and dropped off as close as we can get to the Stuart Lake TH at 3,500'. We'll spend all day getting the 6+ miles into basecamp up Mountaineers Creek at 5,400', at the foot of the north face of Mt. Stuart.

TUESDAY, MAY 20TH: All teams ascend and descend the Sherpa Glacier route.  

WEDNESDAY, MAY 21ST: One team will ascend the Ice Cliff Glacier route. Another team will ascend the Stuart Glacier Couloir route.  Both teams will descend the Sherpa Glacier route. More complete route details will be made available to the actual attendees.  

THURSDAY, MAY 22ND - FRIDAY, MAY 23RD: Contigency for weather, bivouacs, travel and rest.

SATURDAY, MAY 24TH: Hike out back to the TH, get picked up, and stay the night again in Wenatchee

SUNDAY, MAY 25th: Shuttled to airport, take the 10:55 am flight 2159 out of Wenatchee back home.





• A few wicking, breathable base layers, top and bottom

• Insulating, weather-resistant mid layer, top and bottom

• Wind and waterproof shell layer, top and bottom

• Insulating fill or down belay jacket

• A few socks, liners

• Gloves or mittens

• Sunglasses* or goggles

• Warm hat - the toque!

• Balaclava

• Sun hat


• 2 or 3 person 3+ season tent, to share with the group*

• 30-50 liter climbing pack, and if needed a larger approach backpack*

• Sleeping bag and pad*

• Trekking poles with snow baskets*

• Snowshoes or skis

• High calorie, crushproof, "easy fix" food for five days

• Water bottles* or containers

• Mug / bowl and spoon* 

• Strong headlamp* and extra batteries

• Map and compass*

• Small knife*

• Sunscreen

• Camera

• Personal items, medications, etc.


• Mountaineering boots

• Harness*

• Hard shell climbing helmet*

• Sharp steel crampons,* fit to your boots 

• Ice axe* and 

• One or two sharp ice tools

• 2 Locking and 2 non-locking carabiners*

• Two 48" sewn slings* 

• Loop of 5mm cord* 

• Belay device*


• Technical climbing gear: ropes, rock, ice, or snow protection, assorted slings and carabiners

• Some tents

• Some stoves, fuel and pots 

• Snow shovels

• Radios

*Denotes loaner gear available upon prior request, first-come, first serve.

For help in selecting the appropriate item, please refer to the SMC Detailed Clothing, Equipment and Gear List


For more information or questions, please contact the listed event leaders, or Darren Shutt, Mountaineering Director at [masked], (916)[masked] or Phil Montanes, Managing Director (916)[masked]

SMC: Connect, Learn & Climb

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