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Mt Victoria from Abbot Pass

  • Sep 7, 2012 · 1:00 PM
  • This location is shown only to members

Please carefully read the gear requirements and trip difficulty ratings. It is the responsibility of the participant to check for any updates, changes or cancellations before the day of the trip.

Make sure that you have paid for a 2012 membership with the CSMC. Payment can be made online or at the meeting location. Waivers are mandatory for every trip and can be printed online or filled out at the meeting location. Cost for membership with the CSMC is $25 for 2012. Be sure to also bring extra money for car pooling costs. I am manually putting people on the event so you will be waitlisted until I confirm you are capable and equipped.

Mt Victoria from Abbott Pass

Mt. Victoria is a alpine ice ridge ascent from Abbott Pass hut, sitting above Lake Louise. Access to the hut is an easy scramble from Lake O'Hara, with minor objective hazard from falling debris and a nasty scree trail. I truly regret having to do this again this year.

The plan is to take the last 15:30 bus up to Lake O'Hara for the approach to the hut on Friday evening. The approach is normally done in 3-4 hours. This will require leaving Calgary promptly at 1:00PM if not a bit earlier, to make it to the bus in time. Please take this into consideration when considering signing up for this trip.

The hut is comfortable, with all cooking gear, and sleeping foamies. Sleeping bag and food are still required from participants. The hut remains quite warm at night.

I have booked the hut for 4 people for 1 nights (Friday). The cost of night at the hut, plus the bus cost and taxes comes to $49.50 per person. I will require payment before the trip for participants to remain"confirmed".

The climb will be an early 4:00AM alpine start from the hut in order to get best snow conditions, and is about 500m gain from the hut. It consists of steep rock or snow/ice, depending on if there is early snow this fall, followed by a narrow rock and ice ridge to the summit with significant exposure. Participants will be expected to have good comfort on steep snow, ice and exposed ridges, using crampons over mixed rock/ice terrain, as well as knowledge of using ice screws, belaying, self-arrest and roped travel.

We will return the same way, and return to Lake O'Hara itself the same day for riding the last bus out. This puts a time constraint on the climb, so we must move fast.

Gear :
Glacier travel gear(harness,prusik cords and carabiners), headlight, sunglasses, crampons, 2 ice tools, helmet. Group gear will include ropes, snow pickets and ice screws. Temperatures may be below freezing with wind so bring clothing to suit. Raingear is also strongly advised.

Other items:
Sunscreen, sleeping bag, food for 1 evening/day (all meals, cooking facilities provided for dinner), water containers.

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  • Suzanne T.

    Awesome trip - well organized - right down to the weather ;) Seriously - well organized by Mark who thought out a lot of thought into all details - and great company. Thanks Mark and Dan for great company and a fabulous adventure!

    September 10, 2012

  • Mark

    A good climb of Mt Victoria. New snow made us take the rope out a few times and crampons were worn majority of the way. But blue sunny skies were around us. It is a very interesting and varied route -- highly recommend.

    September 8, 2012

  • Mark

    Stephan has to drop out of this trip. Meg, I sent you a note if you are still interested in joining. Please let me know if I should move you to the "Going" list.

    August 23, 2012

  • Joad C.

    I am considering posting a trip to Abbott Pass Thursday Aug 16 to Satuday August 18, offering a 2-day window for summitting Victoria/Lefroy. I called the ACC office and those are the only dates left for booking Abbott Pass hut in the coming weeks. I will make a decision this Sunday.

    July 20, 2012

  • Mark

    This trip filled up fast. I am going to see if I can get another spot booked at the hut. But for group efficiency, I am not going to have the group larger than 5.

    July 20, 2012

No one went

Membership dues

CAD25.00 Before first outing

This covers: Club gear, subsidize training costs, Event Organizer incentives.

Payment is accepted using:

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Your organizer will refund you if:

  • Refunds will be offered at the discretion of the CSMC Executive and on a case by case basis.

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