Ice Climb Two O'Clock Falls David Thompson Highway

I'm itching to try a multipitch ice climb in the beginner/intermediate range and Sinatra Falls on Mt. Kidd looked like the ticket. This year unfortunately the snow has come early and the avi hazard in Kananaskis is beyond my comfort range. Kootenay Plains, just 15 minutes from Saskatchewan Crossing, is a grand spot with low snowfall and a pleasant spring fed frozen waterfall, perfect to open the season and gain experience for the moderate classics.

Alex Joseph has agreed to lead on this one and coax and coddle along us seconds. There are two spots open however I ask that you sign up only if you have some experience. The climb is rated W2 which means 60 degree ice though I expect a few short verticals and mushrooms. It is a beginner or easy intermediate climb. Pay careful attention to the gear list as everyone will need their own gear. This is not a single pitch climb so sharing gear other than a rope is not an option.

Resources:

Grant McEwan Mountain Club

Nordegg weather


Description

Two O'Clock Falls ** 120 m III, 2-3

Two O'Clock Falls is easily visible behind Cavalcade Campground in the Kootenay Plains a short distance west of Two O'Clock Creek (83 C/[masked]). Just west of Cavalcade Campground is a turnoff leading to a poor road. Park at the turnoff and follow the road in the general direction of the ice. You will eventually come to a clearing. From there, look for an indistinct trail or bushwhack to the ice. Note: There are a number of native ceremonial lodges in this clearing; it is crucial that you do not disturb these structures. This is private Nakoda treaty land

This wide expanse can be climbed in two or three pitches offering many lines of good ice. Rappel the left-hand side or thrash down steep trees to the left.



Gear list

Two Ice tools

Plastic boots or very stiff mountaineering boot

Two 22cm Ice screws

Ice climbing crampons not mountaineering

two long slings

Climbing harness

belay device

3 locking carabiners

3 pairs gloves waterproof

Climbing helmet

See winter scrambling gear under files for additional gear. Remember you will be belaying so make sure you have gear to stay warm while stationary.

Driving time approx 7 hours Climbing about 6 hours a long day.


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  • Gerry R.

    Beautiful blue ice and improving weather made the day. Thanks Alex for leading and being great company. The long drive was worth it.

    December 10, 2012

  • Alex J.

    We had the 3 pitches to ourselves as the chinook blew in and provided some needed warmth. Always great to climb in a new area and clean out the cobwebs on first ice of the season. Easy to find. More snow than usual. Ice both plastic and brittle made for a variety. First go with new Dynafit TLT 5 boots for approach and ice (excellent)...next week same boots on skis (should be excellent).

    December 9, 2012

  • Tom M.

    Hey guys, I am out. Just don't want to drive that long for 120M of ice. Why are we not doing something a little closer. Not everything is exposed to avalanche terrain.

    December 8, 2012

  • Travelin' J.

    For once, I don't see a "Wait list" option. I have two years on ice and although I still consider myself to have a VERY moderate ability, I have all the bear and screws necessary to lead easy ice. I did Bow Falls last weekend and the sketchy conditions near the top were really pushing my limit. I'd like to get out on moderate ice to just get more practise, so if someone bails, consider me as a replacement!

    November 30, 2012

    • Travelin' J.

      * "all the gear"

      November 30, 2012

    • Gerry R.

      Sorry I will put you on the wait list

      December 1, 2012

  • Alex J.

    And I have a second set of ice tools and crampons (and boots size 9) for someone if need be. As well, I have some extra long ice screws for at least one person if need be.

    November 30, 2012

2 went

  • Gerry R.
    Member 2015, RCA, AA1, GTA, Co-Organizer
    Event Host
  • Alex J.
    Member 2015, RCA,AA2, GTA

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