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No BS Just Jeeps Virginia Beach Message Board › Upgrades and inventions

Upgrades and inventions

Rob N
Socar
Group Organizer
Virginia Beach, VA
Post #: 1,187
Please use this thread to post about thing that you have done to your rig or inventions that you have come up with to make the Jeepin life a bit easier for everyone else. Basically what i am looking for is inovations or products that you can either do at home or create at home to improve your rig. Last year Mitch posted a series of little inventions that he made to help in different circumstances i.e. a kayak carrier that he made and a bow system to give your tonneau cover a lift so as not to collect water.

If it is something you made or bought and installed, please include pictures and detailed directions. Nothing personel, but if you took you rig to a shop and they did your gears, tires, lift or other accessories, please put that in another thread.
Rob N
Socar
Group Organizer
Virginia Beach, VA
Post #: 1,188
Today I rolled in a Herculiner Bed liner. Here are the steps that I took.
1. I unbolted and removed the seats, seat brackets, seat belts, and center console.
2. I also removed the hardware around the latch on the back door.
3. I grabbed a scrub brush and some soapy water and scrubbed the tub, Wow there was so much dirt.
4. Then I dried it with some old towels and used the shop vac to get all of the little particles.
5. Using the provided Greenie Weenie (Scrubby Pad) I scuffed up the entire tub and the back door.
(one pad did the whole tub. I did not need to buy another)
6. I wiped the whole thing down with acetone and a clean rag (did not come in kit)
7. I used the provided Paint brush and cut in all of the corners.
8. I then rolled out a coat with the provided paint brush.
9. After about 2 hours I repeated the process, using a flashlight to help me see where the tub's red paint job was shining through.
10. After completing the second coat it looked great, but there is always a spot or two that you may miss. Since I was out of Herculiner, I bought a can of Rustoleum Bed Liner spray. It had not bumpyness to it. It was just a Black ruberized spray. I applied it to all of the spots that I missed and realized that I had enough to coat the entire thing. I gave it a complete top coating of it. It was like putting a gloss coat on a nice paint job. I twas 100% worth the extra 6 bucks for the can.

Lessons learned:
1. I would recommend that you start this before noon. I started at 3 and finished in the dark.
2. Get yourself a couple of pairs of rubber gloves. The stuff don't come off very easily.
3. Have someone help youlook for spots that you may have missed. It Helps!
4. Don't plan on driving it the next day. Have an alternate form of transportation.
5. I outlined all of the brackes thinking that I may need to give that section a flat finish so the brackets would seat well after the coating. Although it was a good thought, it wasn't needed. After I noticed the typ of finish that it was getting with the roller, I simply ignored the outlines. All of the brackets went back on with no problems.
I also found that you can coat your pedals with the spray and it completely eliminates "Slipery Pedal" on rainy days:
Srubbing

Cleaned

Scuffed

First Coat

Final Coat

Left Side

Right Side

I took a lot of pics. Look in the photos section to see them.
Rob N
Socar
Group Organizer
Virginia Beach, VA
Post #: 1,191
Originally Posted by Nurpler May 4th 2008

Simplle and INEXPENSIVE tonneau Prop

Looking for a tonneau Prop but didn't want to spend $50.
Walking through Boater's World and found the 6' fiberglass bow and the associated clips. The bow was $15.00 and the clips were $5.00. Got 4 stainless 10-24x1/2" machine screws and 4 nylocs. Total was $22.00.
Marked the spot I wanted the bow, drilled the two holes on each side and installed the clips. Then cut the bow to 55" and put it into the holders. DONE! Here's the pics. Bottom line, you can install an awesome bow for your tonneau (or soft top if you prefer) for under $25.
Here is one of the clips installed:

The bow sitting in the clip:

Here's the final product:

Rob N
Socar
Group Organizer
Virginia Beach, VA
Post #: 1,192
Originally Posted by Nurpler May 18th 2008

Cart for Kayak

Sure, it's not a Jeep thing - BUT - if you ever carry a kayak on your Jeep then have to unload and haul the damn thing a quarter mile to the launch site then you'd understand.
Here's the build I did today before a GREAT day of yak'n:

These were SUPER simple to build, took about 30 minutes per set to make and cost less than 45.00 a set. All except the wheels came from Lowes. Harbor Freight has a great selection of wheels of any type you prefer.

Here's the build - enjoy!

5' of 1 1/2" Sched 40 PVC Pipe 3.23
2 1 1/2" Sched 40 Plugs 2.54
4 1 1/2" Sched 40 "T"s 6.28
4 1 1/2" Sched 40 Caps 3.08
3' of 3/4" Alum tube (round) 6.89
2 3/16" Linch Pins 3.02
2 3/4" Flat Washers .78
2 balloon tires 15.00
1 Pool noodle 2.00
---------------
Total: 42.82

The balloon tires on mine are due to the sorts of places they'll get used. You can get the small 6" lawnmower style wheels for around $3.00 per if you prefer. You'll just have to get smaller round-stock for the axles.

Tools:
Saw to cut the PVC - (table saw worked fine for mine)
Electric drill
3/16" drill bit
3/4" spade bit (they have these at Lowes for $3.87)
Clear PVC glue

Here are the raw materials:


Step 1 - cut the PVC. You'll need 4 lengths at 7" and 2 lengths cut at 3.5".
This what it looks like mocked up before gluing.


Hole drilled in the end plugs for the axle:


Axle details:



Trial fitup before gluing:


All done! Attached to the 'yak! This bungee was just for a test - new ones coming tomorrow.
Worked great even with just one!


Broken down to fit into the hatch. I ONLY glued the Top sets together and the axle "Ts" together - this allows them to be taken apart (as shown) for easy storage.


Nicely stowed in the rear hatch:


Here's the set on ebay that sells for $69 that inspired the idea:


This cart is great for getting to remote launch sites like this which actually turned out to be more like 3/4 of a mile from the parking area!


So, that's it! Easy to make, easy to use, easy to stow, and best of all - EASY ON THE WALLET!
Rob N
Socar
Group Organizer
Virginia Beach, VA
Post #: 1,193
Originally Posted by Nurpler May 30th 2008

Hard Top Hoist

Made a hard top hoist. Total cost was $88. That includes the electric hoist that I got from Harbor freight a year ago for under $60.
I'm running the hard top for a bunch of reasons. But occasionally ya just have to take the top off.
The 1x1 and hardware was bought at Lowes, the hooks are rafter hooks from Home Depot.
This makes top removal quick and easy for just one person.

Since our garage is finished the wife wouldn't let me just cut a hole in the ceiling. The remote hangs neatly when not in use.

This is the "T" frame. I put hose wrap on it to keep it from scratching the top.

This lets me go from this:

To this in just about 10 minutes.



May 1st, 2008 update

Here's the list and a pic of the joint.

1 length of 1x1 steel - 68" (comes in a 6' section)
1 lenght of 1x1 steel - 48"
2 1" T supports
2 4" Angle supports
2 U-hooks (for the hoist hook to attach to)
1 length of 1" pipe insulation
6 1/4-20 - 1.5" bolts
6 1/4-20 nyloc nuts
3 rafter hooks

It's really a simple build. I didn't have a welder available and in typical Jacksonville fashion, the only two welders I could find in the area wanted over $50 to run one small weld. Instead of welding I just did the drill and bolt. It's sturdy and more than strong enough to handle the load. Here's how it's bolted together:



Rob N
Socar
Group Organizer
Virginia Beach, VA
Post #: 1,199
Originally Posted By Rob N. Oct 14, 2008

Sticking it to the Man With Cheap and Easy Fixes

Manifold Bolts

I have been having some exhaust problems with both my Jeep and Tracy's Jeep. I had taken them both in to the Stealership to get the free inspection. But bot times they failed for a leaking exhaust manifold. If you are having the same issues, Here is how you fix it.

So I went to Napa on Holland. They had the 2 required 3/8" 24 x 2 studs and nuts (Grade 8 metal). They did not have the 5 bolts needed. So I went to Lowes. Yes Lowes on Holland. They had the 3/8 16 x 1 1/4" bolts (Grade 8 Metal) I used some "Red" (permanent) Loc-tite on the bolts and torqued them to 200 in-lbs as per the Haynes Manual. The only thing that I had to move out of the way was the air intake tube and although it was not required, I removed the serpentine belt just to get a little more room.

Now to have these bolts/studs replace at the stealership, it was quoted at $824.43. I still have the Quote.

I payed $1.94 per stud, $0.54 per nut, and $1.24 per bolt for a total of $11.16. I reused the washers. and it took about an hour. Since I did 2 Jeeps, I spent $22.32. It took approx 2 hours. And I drank 4 beers (Miller Lite)

So, lets tally it all up. For 1 Jeep, They charged $824.43. Parts cost $11.16. So they are saying that Labor costs $813.27. Even if the book time for doing this job is 4 hours, that is still $203.32 per hour. Are they Crazy?

To Hell with the dealership. If you have this problem, buy the parts and come over. You and i will do it together, Save a ton of money, and drink a few beers while we are at it.

Here are the part numbers for the Studs and Nuts at NAPA
Stud - Part# 82286
Nut - Part# 86665
Just go to Lowes and get 5 - 3/8 16 x 1 1/4" Grade 8 bolts.
Timothy G.
user 6977371
Brunswick, OH
Post #: 385
Well guys I have a perfect upgrade for all of you. Remember those small tie down rings that came in the back of the TJ, well I found a better solution. What I did, is I bought 8 surface mount rope rings from Northern Tool and 16 1/4 inch hex bolts and nuts from Home depot.
The rope rings came in packages of 4 at $7.99, total cost there wasaround $15.
The bolts, nuts and some Loc-Tite came to a total of $25.00.
Now i highly recommend that you lower the back side of the gas tank or remove it, so you can install the two rear rope rings. Oh yeah watch out for the wire bundle too. Well me and my father in-law did the install in about 3 hours. So we install two of them on each fender well in the rear of the jeep. Two of them in the front of the rear seat on the floor and the other two in the back by the rear hatch.

Here is some pictures to show how we did the install, feel free to contact me if you want to see in person.


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mclaggan123
user 8475395
Virginia Beach, VA
Post #: 76
made an overhead shelf today for my cb to be mounted to. it took about and hour and around 20 bucks. i need to get shorter bolts in the morning and cover up the brackets and ill be all set.
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A former member
Post #: 8
I dunno if it counts but I built my own 1" Transfer case drop brackets, I dont have a pic. yet but I got some L and C channel and will soon be attaching the DIY T case drop brackets to some DIY frame stiffeners and cross braces to be followed by DIY control arm drop brackets.
Kennedy
JRKennedy
Virginia Beach, VA
Post #: 15
6" diamond plate fender flares

I have 13.5" wide tires on my jeep and I wanted some nice flares but didn't want to spend an arm and a leg for something I could make plus I was tired of getting wet every time I had my window down with the tires kicking up water. Any way on to the build.

So step one find a local metal dealer and purchase a sheet of 8' x 4' aluminum diamond plate. The one i used was like 60-70 if u buy two or more which I needed a second one anyway for another project.

After that I needed to find a fabrication shop with a big enough cutting sheath and table break. Luckily my dad knew of one that only charged me $40 to cut me out 4 pieces 7" wide x 8' long and then put a 1" 90 degree break on each.

On the way home I stopped at ace hardware and picked up some small stainless bolts, washers, and nuts to attach the fenders once finished.

Once home I removed the stock flares and cut out the fender area larger and to points rather than rounded since I am not a fan of that style. I then painted the lip with some engine enamel primer and then black engine enamel over top to keep the lips from rusting.

Next step was to bend them to match the wheel openings. Each piece I took and c clamped it to the the jeep following the top of the wheel opening but left plenty on each side for the downward bends. At the two sides where the fender will bend down I measured and marked out a triangular piece of the 1" break on each side. Once marked I removed the clamps and set the fender on the bench and used my cutting wheel to cut out each of the triangles. After those were cut out I used a small metal table I had set the fender across it with the break hanging over flat against the side and made sure that where the triangle piece was removed was at the end of the table even with the point of the triangle at which time I c clamped it down at that end and slowly pushed down on the portion that hung off but close to the edge to make the bend for the downward portion. Be sure not to over bend it and proceed slowly while placing it back on the jeep after each bend to be sure it follows the opening.

After I finished up all of the bends I c clamped each fender all around and drilled the holes for the bolts to go through. Of course due to the length you will have some of the fender that hangs lower then the body whic you can cut off using the cutting wheel. After tigtening everything down I stopped and admired how good they tuned out and at a total cost of around $100-$120 not including the second sheet that was purchased for the other project I couldn't be happier.

Any questions feel free to message me.
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