Needs a location
Please carefully read the gear requirements and trip difficulty ratings. It is the responsibility of participants to check for any updates, changes or cancellations before the day of the trip.
We will have a 2-day window opportunity to summit Mount Lefroy (main objective) or Mount Huber, or both. If participants feel strong and are up for an extreme alpine start (read 2 AM), we could consider climbing Mount Victoria, then Mount Huber on the way back, and come down to Lake O’hara by the Huber ledges.
Access to Abbot Pass Hut
Access to the hut is an easy 4 hours scramble from Lake O'Hara, with an elevation gain of 900 m and minor objective hazards from falling debris. The Abbott Pass hut is comfortable, with all cooking gear, and sleeping foamies. The hut remains quite warm at night, a summer sleeping bag might be enough (weather-dependent). A sleeping bag and all personal food are still items required from participants. See http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/facility/abbot.html for details about the hut.
Mt Lefroy from Abbot Pass
Mt. Lefroy is a moderate snow/ice ascent from Abbot Pass hut, sitting above Lake Louise. See Bill Corbett's The 11,000ers of the Canadian Rockies, pp 169-171.
Mt Huber via Huber Ledges/South Victoria
The final stretch to the summit of Mount Huber is glaciated. See Bill Corbett's The 11,000ers of the Canadian Rockies, pp 166-168 for details, and http://bivouac.com/MtnPg.asp?MtnId=1601 and http://bivouac.com/TripPg.asp?TripId=5566
Schedule and Plan
We will take the 3:30 PM bus up to Lake O'Hara for the approach to the hut on Friday July 12th afternoon. The approach is normally done in 4 hours. This will require leaving Calgary at 12:30 PM, to make it to the bus departure spot in time. Please take this into consideration before signing up for this trip.
I have booked the Abbott Pass hut for 2 nights: Friday July 12 and Saturday July 13. The cost of the 2 overnight stays at the hut, plus the bus shuttle to Lake O'hara fees and taxes is $70.00 per person. Payment will be required to move participants from the waiting list to a "confirmed" status.
The climb to Lefroy and/or Huber from Abott Pass will involve both days an alpine start in order to get best snow conditions. It consists of steep rock or snow/ice, traversing narrow rock and ice ridges with significant exposure. Participants will be expected to have good comfort on steep snow, ice and exposed ridges, using crampons over mixed rock/ice terrain, as well as knowledge of using ice screws, belaying, self-arrest and roped glacier travel.
We will be 6 or 7 people on this trip, working jointly in 2 teams of 3-4 people.
Glacier travel gear: crampons, harness, prusik cords and biners, 1 ice screw, some slings, headlamp, sunglasses, sunscreen
Ice climbing gear: +helmet, + 2 ice tools, + mountaineering axe, +1 snow picket
Group gear will include ropes, and extra ice screws. Temperatures may be below freezing and windy so bring light winter clothing as well. Raingear is also mandatory.
Other Gear Items:
Sleeping bag, food (all meals, cooking facilities provided for dinner) for 2 days, water containers (2-3 liters).
Waiting List and Payment:
We will be in touch by email before you make any payment. If you're new to the club, please provide me with a summary of your recent mountain experience (mountaineering, climbing, scrambling, backpacking...). Participants will be moved manually to the confirmed list after their suitability and skills for this trip are confirmed, and they have made the hut & bus payment.
You will also berequired to buy a 2-night Wilderness Pass from Parks Canada for the overnight stay at Abbot Pass hut. Such pass is $10/night (or $69 annual fee) and can be purchased at the Parks Canada Calgary Service Centre in Lake Louise or by phone, see http://www.pc.gc.ca/fra/pn-np/ab/banff/contact.aspx (http://www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/ab/banff/activ/activ33.aspx)
CSMC 2013 Membership:
Make sure that you have paid for a 2013 membership with the CSMC. Payment can be made online or at the meeting location. Waivers are mandatory for every trip and can be printed online or filled out at the meeting location. Make sure to also bring extra money for carpooling costs.