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Los Angeles Urban Chicken Enthusiasts Message Board › Disappointing necropsy and note of caution. Be somewhat wary of local breeders.

Disappointing necropsy and note of caution. Be somewhat wary of local breeders.

Amanda G
user 12128708
Los Angeles, CA
Post #: 217
So Tylan or Tetracycline? Or is that just the brand name? I know this needs to happen, I just don't want to screw up any more than I already have!!

I'm hoping I can get syringes at Henco, not sure where to even get them.
Sorry to confuse you!!! You want :
Tylan 50 .... And I woke up realizing the eye ointment is Terramycin ?? It's looks like a small tube of neosporin. Bactrim is the other antibiotic they gave my hen for respitoray distress. It came in pills.
Amanda G
user 12128708
Los Angeles, CA
Post #: 218
Oh and I got mine online. I saw it at a feed store in El Monte after mine arrived and made a note of where I could buy it. Maybe Kahoots would have it?? That's where I saw Safeguard wormer.... Call around someone's got to stock it but I can tell you Red Barn doesn't ...
Brandi G
user 48566262
Pasadena, CA
Post #: 254
Mary Ellen,

I'd love to try the rooster booster before I go with the safeguard. I bought it, because I could not get Valbazen. They had wazine, but as Amanda says, it only kills adult worms. I figure, if I'm going chemical, I may as well kill them all. Is the rooster booster something that requires withdrawn time without eating eggs?

I also got Tylan 50 injectable, vertericyn eye wash and some vi-tal (electrolytes, vitamins and minerals)

I figure my first aid kit needs to be resonably complete.

I have given the two birds with respiratory symptoms injections of Tylan today. I'll see how they do. The package says twice a day for cattle, but the Henco people said maybe once a day. I'm not sure if five days is long enough or if I should do seven? There are also people who say you can give the injectable orally. I did in the skin at the breast, rather than muscle, some people say it can be hard on them if you go into the muscle. Little seems to be improving already. She's more alert and her comb is already getting redder. Fingers crossed that she comes out ok. Butterscotch also seemed a bit more alert. She was glaring skeptically at me today, much more like she normally does!! They both actually seen to be warming up to me, eating out of my hand, etc. They have always been so grumpy and skittish, hopefully they'll be healthier and happier chickens for it. One can only hope...
user 80252532
Los Angeles, CA
Post #: 51
Brandi, you might want to consider Tylan in their water source (as my vet directed me to do so); it would be good to have an understanding of what your problem is and what you are trying to accomplish (not that I have that answer).
Brandi G
user 48566262
Pasadena, CA
Post #: 259
JJ, The Tylan I got was the injectable. Was the stuff your vet recommended the Tylan powder? I don't see why the injectable couldn't be used in water though. Some people on BYC (never know if it is good advice...) recommend giving the injectable stuff orally.

They have a respiratory issue, I may see how well the ones that are symptomatic respond to the Tylan. If it works well, I'll maybe think about giving it to the rest of them. The necropsy on my bird was negative for Avain influenza and I believe they also test for Coryza and the other nasty ones. Those were all negative. This is just lingering respiratory something or other. One had a puffy eye and I finally heard what sounded like wheezing from my really sick bird, Little. They both got shots of Tylan today. It wasn't too bad, but in a day or so, of everyone is doing better, maybe I'll finish the dose in the water supply.

Oh the joy of sick chickens. This is truly the leper colony now.
Los Angeles, CA
Post #: 350
Under the circumstances, if you're comfortable injecting your birds, I would continue to do so. The advantage is that you know precisely how you've dosed each bird. Also, by injecting, you are getting all of the medicine directly into the hen's system, so it can get to work faster.

If you try adding it to water, you have no idea how much they are ingesting. If they don't drink as much as they need, and as a result the birds are left with a lingering infection, you may wind up making it more resistant. Also, antibiotics in the water supply can be oxidized or contaminated if they sit around waiting for the hens to drink. And, if it makes the water taste funny, they may not want to drink.

If you want to try administering orally, you might want to squirt it into a piece of bread (just big enough to be eaten in one gulp), so you can accurately measure how much the hen gets. Also, remember to finish the course of treatment even if they seem to be recovered. I realize you probably already know all this, but better safe than sorry.
MaryEllen S.
user 13593726
Altadena, CA
Post #: 15
Ooh, that raccoon info makes me so mad!!! Not at you, at the people who spread such fear. The worm that raccoons get is called bayliscera (not spelled right) commonly called just 'bayliss'. There have been three cases of humans being infected with it, ever. All three were people who had ingested large quantities of fresh raccoon feces. Yes, that's right. In order to get infected with Baylis, you have to eat poop. Preferably fresh, and quite a bit of it. Back in the old days, when I did my training, we didn't know much about Baylis and it was much scarier. We thought it could become airosolized when wet (it can't); we thought it could be inhaled and hatch in the lungs (not so, eggs won't hatch anywhere other than digestive system); we thought that if you got one bit of feces on your mucus membranes and/or in your mouth you were done for (not true, eggs will not hatch or replicate unless there is a certain minimum number of them present in the stomach). On other words, it's very, very difficult to get Baylis. I've worked with raccoons for over twenty years now, have rehabbed literally hundreds of them, and I don't have Baylis. Or rabies, which is just another big lie, here in CA. We don't even have the raccoon variant of rabies in this state. And even so, rabies cannot be spread by an a symptomatic animal - until the animal actually starts foaming and drooling, it can't spread the virus, which is in the drool. And which can't survive exposure to air, so it must be transferred via a bite - a scratch or any other kind of contact will not do it.

But back to Baylis for a minute. The only humans who have contracted it have been children or mentally disabled adults who have eaten poop they found outside. In fact, dogs carry a very similar roundworm that is often found in coyotes and foxes, and more people have been infected by that than by raccoon roundworm. But people don't hire trappers, or "nuisance wildlife control", or whatever they call themselves, to come kill dogs on their property, so there is no value in the blatant fear-monte ring that goes on about raccoons. Even "official" people like state depts of wildlife and people like that like to quote to hyped-up 'danger' of Baylis and rabies from raccoons. Because the money to pay those people comes from the sale of hunting and trapping licenses, so they want you to think of raccoons as disease-carrying monsters, so you won't complain about what we allow to be done to them in the name of "sport."

And I'll get off my soapbox now. I got thrown of the California poultry people Facebook page for defending raccoons, and I know most chicken keepers hate them (because, apparently, the concept of predator proofing a coop is just too complicated), but you'all may as well know now that that's where I stand.
Karen C.
user 83873082
Palos Verdes Peninsula, CA
Post #: 67
Susan...the Colloidal Silver is for eyes. The author of City Chicks just warned us to be aware of gapeworm by watching for gulping signs. Not sure what you use to solve that. Thanks for compiling all of the pertinent data!
Amanda G
user 12128708
Los Angeles, CA
Post #: 220
Karen I was just going to post that too!

Susan great job thanks for doing this!!! there are a few corrections that should be made but I'm on my phone & it's too hard from here... When I get to the office I will let you know the other corrections...

Brandi G
user 48566262
Pasadena, CA
Post #: 262
Agreed! Susan, nice work.

I only used Frontline as a lice killer because I went chemical, under the circumstances. I usually use wood ash and Nu-Stock ointment, which also works for scaly leg mites and other mites. The frontline can just be dropped under each wing and a drop on the top and bottom of the vent. On larger chickens you can put a drop on the back of the neck as well (according to BYC)

ACV appears to work because of the live probiotics present in it. Apple Cider Vinegar has living organisms (like kombucha tea) and the beneficial bacteria populate the gut. I supposedly helps with digestion and to keep waterers free of algae. They recommend cleaning hummingbird feeders between filling with only ACV, not soap.

Corrid liquid is dosed daily, I was recommended 1/4 tsp per 32oz water. Use no vitamin supplements with it because it blocks B vitamins, helping to kill off the coccidiosis bacteria. The vet told me it is a Coccidiostat, meaning it helps get rid of Cocci by keeping the bacteria in check. It doesn't cure it. I believe that is why they recommend follow up doses/ maintenance doses for 21 days on the bottle. Poop can be bloody or even kind of orange. That's what alerted me, the weird orange poops in the young chickens.
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