[TR] Mt. Rainier - Kautz Glacier

Trip Dates: 7/21-7/22
Party Size: 4

Got permits on the same day and has 36 permits on a per person basis for Kautz alpine zone, which should be Turtle & close to the Rock Step area.

Went up The Fan route crossing and navigating few crevasses. The Fan was in good shape, but started developing moats in the middle, we went on the rocks on the left of moats. Multiple sources of running water in The Castle camping area. We also found running water on the climber's right ~10,200ft but none around bivy spots close to Rock Step, our camping spot ~11,022ft. Lots of bivy spots with nice flat surface and windsheld of rocks.

Staying on the climber's left was helpful to solo climb up to our camping spot, since there're couple crevasses on the right near The Castle. Had to take off crampons for rocks and put it back on for snow for many times. There are fixed lines at the Rock Step with carabiners, we used one of 'em for our rope to rappel. We solo climbed the first ice chute and simul-climbed second. Navigating few crevasse after ice chute and Wapowety bivy spot, we reached to the Crater Rim and then to The Summit.

Followed same route for our descend, put on two reps on penitentes for the second ice chute. Belayed to go up the Rock Step. We took Wilson Gully variation instead The Fan, crossed few crevasses.

Fun climbing Kautz Glacier route on a clear and almost freezing temperature for the ice chute elevation for our pleasant late then usual descends.

Used 4 ice crews, 60m 8mm single, 2 tools and standard glacier travel gear.