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Cinema Galeries : Marty Supreme

16/02 @ 18h30

How Costumes Shape the Myth of Marty Supreme
By Lisa Wong Macabasco

For the propulsive new film Marty Supreme, costume designer Miyako Bellizzi had to adopt a dream-big mindset worthy of its protagonist to consider the question: Who is the man Marty Mauser wants to project to the world?

“It’s not necessarily who he is at the moment,” she recently explained to Vogue. That would be a Lower East Side shoe salesman (played by a relentless Timothée Chalamet) circa 1952 who is convinced that he’s the world’s best table-tennis player. But for this electric character study of someone chasing greatness through force of will, self-serving manipulation, and self-invention, clothes indeed make the man—and his fake-it-till-you-make-it spirit.

After all, Marty has huge ambitions, and one of the first costume items epitomizing that is his gray suit: Still in a plastic dry-cleaning bag, he waves it at a shoe-store coworker with more modest dreams, saying he bought it specifically for a major tournament overseas. That piece, in Bellizzi’s eyes, best represents the character of Marty: “It’s the man he wants to be.”

Filmmaker Josh Safdie approached her about the project after they collaborated on his two previous features, 2019’s Uncut Gems and Good Time from 2017, which he directed with younger brother Benny Safdie. (She’s since worked on films like 2024’s Bonjour Tristesse and this year’s The History of Sound, as well as the 2021 HBO series Scenes From a Marriage.)

“This was Miyako’s favorite era, so the coincidence of my coming to her was ecstatic,” Safdie says. “The synergy of that was so special.”

[...]

Marty’s and Rachel’s costumes during an excursion to rural New Jersey even informed how Safdie directed those scenes, which he calls “the Bonnie and Clyde sequence.” A 1920s photograph of a cosmopolitan-looking couple in a convertible in a country setting translated to Marty’s maroon-brown suit and Rachel’s beige-brown gingham sailor-collared shirtdress. “It felt like the type of thing that somebody who was up to no good from the city would wear to the country,” Safdie says. “When I close my eyes and think of the movie, I think of that paired look, these city slickers in the country.”

Cinema Galeries
By Lisa Wong Macabasco for Vogue

For Dreamers, Coffee shots, Orezza, eau de Saint-Georges !

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