Jurassic Coast walking weekend: A pirate’s graveyard and the fearsome Roy Dog

Start time: 15:00 (est end time: 19:00)
Walk Leader: David O
Moderate: 8.6m / 13.8km (ascent: 315m / 1032ft)

Join us for one or more walks during our weekend break to the Jurassic Coast.

We traverse the perimeter of the unique Isle of Portland during this scenic coastal walk, with vast sea views guaranteed. But watch out for the fearsome Roy Dog along the way or you might get eaten up! More on that later…

The ‘island’ itself is connected to the mainland by the majestic Chesil Beach. This distinctive 18-mile (29-kilometre) shore sticks out between shallow tidal lagoon the Fleet and the English Channel, at points reaching 15m (50ft) high and 200m (660ft) wide. We will enjoy views of it on the drive to the start of the walk and as we return back towards its end.

Early into the walk, we enjoy views over the quaint seaside villages of Fortuneswell, Castletown and Chiswell from the top of the hill. We pass a prison, a Young Offenders Institute and the 1890s-built High Angle Battery - built to protect Portland Harbour from invasion - before arriving at Church Ope Cove.

Nearby Portland Harbour - views of which we’ll see throughout the weekend - is one of the largest man-made harbours in the world. A huge feat of Victorian engineering, construction began in 1849 with the foundation stone being laid by Prince Albert. It was completed in 1872. The cost was listed as £1,167,852.

The Grove Convict Establishment provided the labour for the 1,500 tonnes of Portland stone per day required for the harbour’s breakwater barriers that prevent flooding to nearby population centres. The first convicts on the island - sited in the location that is now the Young Offenders Institute - arrived in 1848 and had to build their own cells.
We pass the ruins of the impressive but privately-owned Rufus Castle, dating back to the late 15th century, which has a nice bridge across a public walkway.

Then there’s a little walk along Church Ope Cove, a popular smuggling spot for contraband in years gone by.

We will stop to visit an old, and somewhat decrepit, graveyard along the way. Some say it’s a Pirates’ graveyard…

Then it’s onwards to the impressive Portland Bill lighthouse, which helps guide seafarers off the island’s notoriously hazardous coast. The lighthouse replaced two previous ones in 1906, with its predecessors later becoming a bird observatory and self-catering accommodation.

We pass through the inspiring Tout Quarry Sculpture Park & Nature Reserve, towards the end of the walk, where we will see a carving of the fearsome Roy Dog. Legend has it the Roy Dog lives in a large cave, terrorising lone travellers who chance upon him. Locals say he has one red eye and one green eye, hunting and devouring smugglers and fishermen as they pass his dwelling place. If you spot him on your travels, before being eaten, look closely and you will be able to see the eyes of his victims weaved into his fur.

If we survive, we’ll enjoy some beautiful views across Chesil Beach before the end of the walk.

Please bring packed lunch. 🥪

What to bring - checklist
An advisory, non-exhaustive list of what to bring on a walk:

🔵 A sturdy pair of walking boots that you have already walked in (essential). 🥾
🔵 Lots of water (essential). Advice: Two 1.5l bottles of water. 💧
🔵 A decent pair of walking socks (or maybe two socks on each foot) - to prevent blisters. 🧦
🔵 Sun cream (weather pending). 🧴
🔵 Rain jacket (weather pending). 🌧️
🔵 Small packet of pocket-sized tissues. 🤧
🔵 Multi-sized packet of plasters - in case of blisters, bramble cuts etc. 🩹
🔵 Backpack for your belongings. 🎒
🔵 Savlon - for any minor insect bites that may occur. 👍