Atlantic Islands

My most esoteric theme yet—wines from islands in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean (the Azores, the Canary Islands, Madeira). Canary Island wines have made inroads into the US marketplace in recent years, and (to my surprise) the Azores have followed suit to a limited extent. Some grapes will be familiar to Iberian wine aficionados, some are distinctive to the islands, and one wine is made from a non-Vinifera grape. Plus a bonus wine: a Madeira to finish the dinner.

I’ve already run out of characters, so I’ll let Jancis and Co. tell you all about these wines:
https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/the-volcanic-wines-of-the-azores
https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/tenerife-island-of-wine-and-historic-discoveries

We’ll try a new place, Blue Ribbon Brasserie in SoHo. Great food, varied menu, friendly welcome.

https://www.blueribbonrestaurants.com/restaurants/blue-ribbon-brasserie/

2018 Azores Wine Co. Arinto dos Açores Sur Lie, DO Pico (Azores) $55
Not rated. 2016 vintage Jancis Robinson 17/20: “Complex nose of chalk, butter, bread, old wood, orange peel. Dense structure, balanced acidity, ethereal, with hints of light tannins, finishes on coconuts and iodine. A wine that made me salivate!”

2018 Azores Wine Co. Verdelho Original, IG Açores (Azores) $50
Not rated. 2017 vintage Wine Advocate 92: “From three islands (80% Pico, 15% Graciosa and 5% São Miguel), it comes in with 12% alcohol. Gorgeous, this is a fresh white with fine tension and a long finish. Elegant but nicely concentrated, this is intense in a balanced way and always enlivening.”

2017 Victoria Torres Pecis Las Migas Listán Blanco, DO La Palma (Canary Islands) $24
Wine Advocate 93 – Notes of tangerines, floral and expressive. This is not shy at all, and the palate revealed pungent flavors, very tasty and with a clear, salty finish. Delicious.

2017 Ignios Marmajuelo $34, DO Ycoden Daute Isora, Tenerife (Canary Islands)
Wine Advocate 92 – It definitely feels fresher and less advanced than the 2016 I tasted next to it. It's also more restrained: it's aromatic but didn't have the syrup notes I detected in the 2016. It kept its poise and harmony nicely. The palate is more austere than I expected, with a dry finish and a fine-grained texture.

2017 Azores Wine Co. Isabella A Proibida Tinto (Azores) $35
Not rated. From Manhattan Wine Co.: “Isabella is a hybrid of Vitis Vinifera and Vitis Labrusca that was a mainstay for 'house wine' production on Pico after phylloxera hit. Antonio Macanita rescued an old plot of Isabella on volcanic basalt to make the lone red bottling of Azores Wine Company. With its bright cranberry and red currant fruit, modest alcohol level (12%) and focused acid streak, this quaffable red plays well on its own or at the table.”

2016 Borja Perez Artifice Tinto Listan Negro, DO Ycoden Daute Isora, Tenerife (Canary Islands) $24
Wine Advocate 90 –100% Listán Negro. It felt a little advanced and with developed aromatics, with the core of black pepper and pumice stone but in a mellower way. The palate was also polished and approachable, quite silky.

2017 Ignios Vijariego Negro, DO Ycoden Daute Isora, Tenerife (Canary Islands) $50
Wine Advocate 94 – The nose had a note of smoked bacon and a touch of iron intermixed with wild berries, flowers and spices. The palate revealed some grainy tannins that might require some time in bottle to get polished, and there's a dry, serious finish. This has a vibrant palate that transmits freshness.

2017 Ignios Baboso, DO Ycoden Daute Isora, Tenerife (Canary Islands) $48
Wine Advocate 93 – Matured in a 1,500-liter oak foudre (and one barrique), so the rate at which the wine takes oxygen during the élevage was very different from the 2016. This felt much younger, and it had a creamy twist that was probably added by the new oak in which it was aged. It has plenty of fine-grained tannins that might require a little more time in bottle.