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El Milagro is the latest restaurant to open as part of restaurateur Javier Villa’s growing suburban Omaha empire. This time, he’s taking a stab at higher-end Mexican, serving a menu that he describes as he and co-owners Yolanda Reyes and Gabriel Martinez moving “more to our roots.”

When they commit fully to that direction – one that promises flavorful, high-quality, well-seasoned food – their restaurant delivers a slice of South Omaha 132 blocks west of 24th Street. But, as we learned after two visits, it isn’t always that focused, or that flavorful.

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