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Broken Top, 9,175 ft Northwest Ridge

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Anthony R.
Broken Top, 9,175 ft Northwest Ridge

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Please read, understand and agree in entirety-

I've got permits for Friday July 22nd. This will be a slow enjoyable climb. My knee is not 100% so i'm going to take my time. Don't use the map on this app. Instead type in "Green Lakes Trailhead" into your google maps.
I have to work in the morning so be ready in the parking lot by 8:15 and ready to leave at 8:30am.

Broken Top is an alpine rock climb. Grade 1, class 4, with exposure. The Northwest ridge is the easiest route. It is a 10 hour+ day over 13 miles and +3,700' ele. gain. The climb is 90% hiking then scrambling, next a 12' ledge rock climb and climaxing in 3 exposed catwalks to the amazing summit!

Prerequisites- Know how to belay and rappel and be comfortable on exposed catwalks without ropes. They are crumbly and exposed. We will be belaying and rappelling the 12' step, not the catwalks.

About me:
I am not a mountain guide, nor do I hold myself out to be one. I joined this group to find and meet up with others that enjoy hiking and climbing mountains as much as I do. Oregon Alpine Project is not a guide service. There is no fee or service, or a fee for service. I have zero, zip, zilch formal training other than what I have learned form years of climbing. If you are looking for a guided climb up Broken Top, please call a reputable guide service. There are many and they are worth every penny you will pay them. They will rope every inch of this climb while we will NOT be. I do not have the skills to properly set protection on some of the worst rock in Oregon nor do I see how one would be able to safely do so. We are friends, who will help each other to the top of the mountain. Nothing more.

This will be my 7th time climbing Broken Top, I’ve done 5 times to the true summit, 1 time to the South Summit. However, that doesn't qualify me to know anymore than you.

Itinerary- Meet at Green Lakes TH at 8:15. Read and sign Oregon Alpine Project liability waiver. Hike out the Green Lakes Trail @5 miles to the climbers trail to the Northwest Ridge. Fill up our waters at one of the best springs in Oregon. Ascend ridge, put on helmets/harness at large spire below the 12' ledge. Climb ledge and traverse exposed catwalks to summit. Return same route. Rappel off ledge. Descend back to the amazing spring for a high five and soak.
Then back to Green Lakes TH.

Post Climb 5-6pm - Beverages at my truck.

Equipment list-
Helmet, sunglasses, sunscreen
backpack
2 liters water capacity, we will refill at the spring if need be.
lunch, snacks
harness, 2 locking carabiners, rappel/belay device, prussic cord
trail shoes/trailrunners with small gaiters recommended
Long sleeve workout shirt,>5hrs in the sun-recommended
trekking poles
After trip beverage

Gear Provided-
1-30m Rope, anchor, medical kit
Sterri pen for water, I will bring

It is going to be hot, the spring will be amazing! Photo used without permission. Oh wait, its mine. No guests, no dogs.

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Oregon Alpine Project
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