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Let's Climb Mount Hood- South Side Hogsback (Overnight Climb)

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Michael and Jack_F
Let's Climb Mount Hood- South Side Hogsback (Overnight Climb)

Details

Let's climb Mount Hood. Mark the date-
I will be looking for solid conditions - snow, wind, and avi conditions. If conditions are not favorable, I will change the date sooner/later for more favorable conditions.

Joining the waitlist:
I am opening this up for members with moderate glacier and mountaineering experience who have not climbed Hood before. If you already climbed it, please don't sign up.

Join the waitlist to be considered for this climb. I will be VERY selective is moving members to the confirmed list.

About Mount Hood:
Mount Hood is a volcanic glaciated mountain about 50 miles east of Portland. It is one of the most climbed mountains in the US, indeed in the world. It is a very challenging and demanding climb requiring strong physical skills and snow skills. Hood is my favorite mountain to climb. I really enjoy the experience and adventure.

The Palmer Glacier route is considered a Grade, II class 3 glacier climb. The route above Devil's Kitchen (10,400 ft) steepens significantly starting at the Hogsback onto the Gates (~50° +).

We will follow the South Side/Palmer Glacier route to the end of the Hogsback. Expect icy conditions near the Hogsback at this time of the year, and pay attention to the fumaroles.
Then continue northeast into the gully known as the Pearly Gates. Conditions in the chute are hard consolidated snow and ice. Inside the chute, there are two gullies, the right typically being slightly harder. After this, travel on moderate slopes that lead directly to the summit.
Return the same way or follow the Alt route depending on conditions and traffic congestion.

Stats:

  • Highest point- 11,235 ft
  • Starting elevation- 5800 ft
  • Elevation gain- 5300 ft
  • Distance- About 3.3 miles each way
  • Duration- About 8 hours roundtrip

Early start at 4 am Sat.
Hike up from Timberline and follow the trail to Hogsback. From there, take the Gates' route to the summit.
Come down the same way, unless it is backed up. We can use Alt chute (Old Crater) route.

Gear:
Two ice axes/tools
Crampons
Stiff boots
Hiking poles
Gaiters
Clothing for the conditions- layers and wind sun protection
Headlamp and spare batteries
Harness in case we have to rope
A couple of carabiner
Prusik loop
Personal Anchor System (PAS)
Helmet
Food and water for the day
Your version of the ten essentials
two ropes (30-50M) if we conditions require it
Three pickets per rope

Plan:
Leaving the Seattle area Friday afternoon around 2pm from Eastgate Park and Ride.
Drive down to Timberline and either car camp, or stay at a nearby hotel- about 15 minutes from the TH.
Drive to the TH around 3:30 am Sat
Boots on the trail at 4am
Summit and return back to the TH
Lunch break
Drive back to the Seattle area
Should be back around 6ish pm Saturday.
$10 climbing permit required- per person
NW Forest Pass per vehicle

Getting there:
If staying at a nearby hotel- TBD when we confirm specific hotel availability.
If at Timberline TH:
Take I-5 to approximately 15 mi north of the Oregon state line to I-205 bypass around Portland to US 26. Travel east on US 26 for about 50 mi. Just past Government Camp turn left at Timberline Lodge turnoff. Drive 8 mi and park in lodge parking lot.

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