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Details

Join the waitlist to be considered for this climb.
I will be very selective with the team members.
A team of 6-10 max for the event.

Tentative- Mark the date
Conditions permitting, let's try to climb via the Emmons Glacier Route.
Once the team is set, we will plan a training session for the entire team.

Mount Rainier is the tallest and most heavily glaciated of all the Cascade
Volcanoes. The Emmons route includes about 10,000 feet of glacier travel. It is very demanding and challenging under the best of conditions. The Emmons and Winthrop glaciers cover approximately a quarter of the mountain's surface.

This event is only for experienced members with SOLID glacier and mountaineering skills who are capable of moving at about 2 MPH with a heavy pack.

The Plan:
Meet in the Seattle area and carpool to the TH at White River Campground.
Distribute team gear and check in/register with the Rangers by about 7:30
Boots on the trail no later than 8am
One major stop to filter water.
Arrive at camp site at Emmons Glacier Alpine Zone just above Camp Schurman- Emmons Flats.
Prepare camp site all climbing gear for the summit push.
Melt snow as needed.
Alpine start at 12 or 12:30 am
Absolute turnaround time is 12 noon
Once at the summit, we will spend 45 minutes to one hour and prepare for the return trip.
Arrive at campsite and prepare to descend back to the TH
Arrive at the TH and check out at the Ranger Station
Drive back to the Seattle area and arrive around 6 or 7pm.

Route Map:
https://caltopo.com/m/S2J9

Approach:
From White River Campground (4,400 ft), hike 3.5 mi to Glacier Basin (5,935 ft). Continue on the trail for another mile to base of the Inter Glacier (7,000 ft). Rope up here. Or, conditions permitting, may rope up instead at Camp Curtis at 9200 ft.

Ascent Route:
Ascend 1,500 feet up the middle of the Inter Glacier, traveling slightly southeast to reach the glacier rim (9,000 ft) at Camp Curtis. Travers descent to the Emmons Glacier and ascend the Emmons to Camp Schurman (9,500 ft) at the base of Steamboat Prow. (hut is for emergencies only).

From Camp Schurman, follow a smooth snow slope called "The Corridor" slightly east, to about 12,000 ft. Here the glacier becomes heavily crevassed and offers many variations in routes to the crater rim. The usual routes go straight up and left, or bear right and across to the saddle between the true summit, Columbia Crest, and Liberty Cap.

The actual summit (14,411 ft) is on the far west side of the crater rim. The summit register is just below at a large boulder.

Descent the climbing route.

Trip Profile and stats:
Total gain: 10,300 feet
Distance and back: approximately 16 miles
TH to Camp: 6-8 hours, 5100 gain
Camp to Summit: 6-8 hours, 4900 gain
Summit to Camp: 3-4 hours
Camp to TH: 3-4 hours

Helpful Blog:
http://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/2017/05/emmons-glacier-route.html

Climbing permit website:
https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/climbing.htm

Route details and maps:
https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/climbing.htm

Getting There:
Drive SR-410 in Mount Rainier National Park to Sunrise Road. It's 5 miles from the northern entrance and 4 miles from Cayuse Pass to the south. Turn onto Sunrise Road and drive 5 miles, turn left onto the White River Campground Road, and continue 1.2 miles to the campground (4,300 ft).
NPS Permit required per vehicle.

Group Camping permit required for the team.

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